Try this link.I don’t suppose anyone knows a good site or somewhere to learn the names of the parts?
https://mb.nawcc.org/threads/clock-parts-terminology-•.39874/?p=291717#post291717
Michael
Try this link.I don’t suppose anyone knows a good site or somewhere to learn the names of the parts?
Hmmm....I wish I could comment! I dare say it could be to prevent that.I've never seen that little spring on the arm that lifts the rack hook before, is that in case somebody turns the clock backwards? The pin on the wheel to lift the arm looks like a roller.
Thanks Mike, sounds like that is going to add an additional layer or two of confusion into the mix for me! I’m in the UK so will need to see what I can find info-wise.As for part names, they are different in UK and USA so it depends where you are! Also, some well-known repairers who have written books used rather odd part names. To compound it, some names have changed their names over the centuries!
Is the snail loose on the hour wheel?
Thanks Michael, I hadn’t realised there was quite as much info as that in there!
Normally there is just a pin on the wheel for the lift, and the downward part of that arm is riveted on. I don't have a clock that has a pivoted piece and a spring like that.Hmmm....I wish I could comment! I dare say it could be to prevent that.
The pin on that wheel does have a loose sleeve on it.
I see.....interesting....I’m just having a look at it just now. It looks like the downwards section of the arm would just slip if the wheel was turned the other way so you could well be right.Normally there is just a pin on the wheel for the lift, and the downward part of that arm is riveted on. I don't have a clock that has a pivoted piece and a spring like that.
Ive had a wee look this morning and yep, the hour hand does feel like a friction fit. It may have been on back to front though as it feels tighter now.The hour hand is probably just a friction fit and can be pushed back a little further to tighten it up. Worse case, you'll have to adjust the size a little to fit snugly. A pic of the hole in that hand might be useful...to see how it might be altered if needed.
Matthew Read, author of “How to repair pendulum clocks”, has a good video on securing the gut on longcase clocks.Additionally, the existing gut lines are just secured by tying around a slot headed brass wood screw! Is there a correct part I should be seeking out for this?
Ah ok.....that makes sense. I think the washer will have to be fairly thick in that case. Makes sense though and should make things feel a lot tighter!That play is because you are missing a washer that goes on the minute wheel. It will just fit on top, and prevents the rack from rising so far that it can disengage. any washer that will fit is fine.
Now that would have looked superb!! these are currently just a mixture of rust and black paint. Tiny fleck of gold near the tip of the hour hand though.The hands would originally have been polished then heat blued.
Cracking video indeed....Cheers for thatMatthew Read, author of “How to repair pendulum clocks”, has a good video on securing the gut on longcase clocks.
That's how they usually start out when you start restoring the clock, they end up polished and blued.Now that would have looked superb!! these are currently just a mixture of rust and black paint. Tiny fleck of gold near the tip of the hour hand though.
Lovely....I'm sure I'll learn how to achieve that a bit further down the lineThat's how they usually start out when you start restoring the clock, they end up polished and blued.
Fantastic, thanks for that! In that case, it isn’t slipping at all so it looks like that is the crux of the main issue....great to have a bit of clarityThat spring in your photo acts as a sort of clutch. When you adjust the hands it should allow the hands to slip (meaning you adjusting the hands is not trying to force the clock mechanism around). It needs the right amount of tension on the spring which is done by gently adjusting the bend. Old brass sometimes becomes hard and brittle and no longer “springy” so it may need replacement. It’s a common part and easily purchased.
yip, I understand exactly what you are meaning. I have tried gripping the end of the centre arbor with pliers and then trying to rotate the cannon pinion but it is next to impossible...the pliers just slip off.I don't think the spring is the issue here but it may be defective as well. The problem seems to be that the cannon pinion is stuck on the centre arbor which is why you are having difficulty removing it AND the problem with the hand setting. It should come off without much force. I will leave it to those far more expert than me to advise as I don't want to suggest something that causes you to break or damage anything.
To explain: you'll note that the minute hand sits on the square part of the cannon pinion. When the clock is running normally the cannon pinion is rotating in sync with the centre arbour (which is running inside the pipe). The reason the centre arbour is driving the cannon pinion is the tension of the flat washer under the cannon pinion and a domed washer on the minute hand in conjunction with a tapered pin through the end of the centre arbour. So without the spring and washers the cannon pinion would rotate freely around the centre arbour which it is not doing so when you try to move the hands it is trying to force the whole mechanism around. That is the fault.
Squirting some penetrating oil inside the pipe on the cannon pinion would do no harm and may well help if allowed to soak. I wouldn't use pliers on end of the centre arbor or it will get chewed up. You need to lever the cannon pinion off evenly with two levers. Don't use one or you could snap the centre arbor. Don't be tempted to whack the end of the centre arbor with a hammer -there's a hole there for the taper pin and it will break. The old fashioned way to deal with this would be to immerse the lot in a bucket of paraffin for a week. Stinky but works.yip, I understand exactly what you are meaning. I have tried gripping the end of the centre arbor with pliers and then trying to rotate the cannon pinion but it is next to impossible...the pliers just slip off.
I wonder if some release oil sprayed directly at the end of the centre arbor and left to soak would help.
Hello Snorty,What I have noticed now is that when I hold the cannon pinion still, the minute wheel can be moved left to right by a few millimetres....I’m not sure if this is a sign of things loosening though or if it shouldn’t be doing that...
I’ll throw a pile more penetrating oil on it and see what happens.
Most hardware stores in England sell it, in 5 litre containers. I think it's very similar to domestic heating oil, but that's harder to get in small quantities.Paraffin does not seem to be easy to come by!!
Cheers Simon, B&Q are annoyingly out of stock and we don’t have much else around us here. If the penetrant doesn’t do the trick, I’ll just have to order on-line.Most hardware stores in England sell it, in 5 litre containers. I think it's very similar to domestic heating oil, but that's harder to get in small quantities.
Simon
Have you a local town shop that sells general hardware and household stuff? Or try a petrol station that sells logs, coal etc as parrafin is also used in some old fashioned heaters.Cheers Simon, B&Q are annoyingly out of stock and we don’t have much else around us here. If the penetrant doesn’t do the trick, I’ll just have to order on-line.
Cheers Simon.....tried the service stations but they had nothing. However, I did eventually find some in local town which I now have in my possession!! Blooming expensive but at least I’ve got some at last!Have you a local town shop that sells general hardware and household stuff? Or try a petrol station that sells logs, coal etc as parrafin is also used in some old fashioned heaters.
Simon
Any chance of a photo with some arrows and or labels showing where you are gripping it , and what is moving relative to what? Michael.Thanks guys, the stuff I have here is 3-in-one professional penetrant. I’ve used it on the cars over the years and it has been great. I have tried to get it in to the rear of the cannon but will get a load more in there. The only thing that I thought was odd was that, when holding the cannon still, although the minute wheel gives tiny anoints of movement, the centre arbor does not....it remains still with the cannon....is that meant to be the case?
It'll last you a long time. Don't throw it away once contaminated – just let the contaminants settle out then decant off the clean. I keep a bucket (with a lid) half-full of paraffin, and I use it for dunking whole movements sometimes as a pre-clean process.Cheers Simon.....tried the service stations but they had nothing. However, I did eventually find some in local town which I now have in my possession!! Blooming expensive but at least I’ve got some at last!
Of course Michael, initially I was gripping the exposed end of the steel arbor but nothing was turning other than the movement itself.Any chance of a photo with some arrows and or labels showing where you are gripping it , and what is moving relative to what? Michael.
Perfect, I think I’ll just put the whole lot in with it in that case and keep it labelled for the purpose. I only put in enough to submerge the front plate and arbor just there.It'll last you a long time. Don't throw it away once contaminated – just let the contaminants settle out then decant off the clean. I keep a bucket (with a lid) half-full of paraffin, and I use it for dunking whole movements sometimes as a pre-clean process.
Simon
Great. Leave it in the shed or garage for a week. Stinks too much to have in the house and don't leave it outside or it will get contaminated with water. When ready, lift it out and let as much as possible drip back into the bucket then place on a thick load of newspaper. Obviously be very careful regarding naked flames anywhere near!Perfect, I think I’ll just put the whole lot in with it in that case and keep it labelled for the purpose. I only put in enough to submerge the front plate and arbor just there. View attachment 643054
OK, I see. The wheel and brass tube should not move relative to each other. Are you able to grip the arbor on the other side of the plate (in a vice with soft jaws) and try to turn the tube? The wheel should turn with the tube. If it still won't budge it may help to lightly hammer/tap the tube along its length and all around. Give it a sharp rap but not so hard as to bruise the brass and of course, support it directly beneath where you tap. Then soak some more. MichaelOf course Michael, initially I was gripping the exposed end of the steel arbor but nothing was turning other than the movement itself.
View attachment 643051
even the smooth pliers began to slip and round the arbor a bit so I have stopped that.
Now what seems to be happening is as below. Just gripping the brass cannon part and holding it still with my fingers, the wheel seems to have play as shown. Whilst you can see the play in the wheel, the steel arbor is still along with the cannon.
View attachment 643053
Unfortunately it is upside down in the tub of paraffin now or I could have taken a video.
If the brass cannon pinion is meant to rotate around the steel arbor (which is as I understood it) then there is zero movement.