Longcase Restoration Project

Jevan

Registered User
Jul 31, 2014
145
102
43
Clamp the rod in a vice sandwiched between two small wooden blocks, I use two MDF blocks approx. 2 x 1 x ½ inch.

The wood is soft enough to take the form of the rod yet strong enough to hold it tight without damage.
 

Snorty

NAWCC Member
Feb 21, 2021
307
17
18
47
Country
Region
Clamp the rod in a vice sandwiched between two small wooden blocks, I use two MDF blocks approx. 2 x 1 x ½ inch.

The wood is soft enough to take the form of the rod yet strong enough to hold it tight without damage.
Perfect…thanks for that. I was consider buying the purpose made plastic vice jaw covers but timber sounds like a much better bet :thumb:
 

Snorty

NAWCC Member
Feb 21, 2021
307
17
18
47
Country
Region
Afternoon folks, just been giving this chap a fresh coat of beeswax and I can’t help but notice that the re-silvered chapter rings / boss etc done last year are looking distinctly brassy! Hmmm….they have t lasted long. I know this is in part to them reflecting the brass plate but I still think they have done too well. I think the photos make them look better than they do in reality.
Any thoughts? They were done in the usual manner and renaissance waxed to finish…not lacquered.
376F2AED-38E0-460C-B364-10B69841692E.jpeg


3446FD18-C6F1-4D52-B9F9-D0206872FCA9.jpeg
 

bruce linde

NAWCC Member
Donor
Nov 13, 2011
10,489
2,223
113
oakland, ca.
clockhappy.com
Country
Region
was your silvering powder perhaps older (and would that make a diff?)

also... i started applying the silvering twice, just to make sure i had good coverage.

final thought: how did you prep? you need to grain the surfaces with fine-but-not-too-fine sandpaper so the silvering can fill the textured surfaces.
 

Snorty

NAWCC Member
Feb 21, 2021
307
17
18
47
Country
Region
was your silvering powder perhaps older (and would that make a diff?)

also... i started applying the silvering twice, just to make sure i had good coverage.

final thought: how did you prep? you need to grain the surfaces with fine-but-not-too-fine sandpaper so the silvering can fill the textured surfaces.
Thanks Bruce, appreciated.

The silvering powder was new so probably not down to that. I think you may have hit the nail on the head with the prep side though. As I recall, the rings were back to brass anyway. I think I simply used metal polish to start and then proceeded to re-silver. Sounds like I missed a step!

I shall do them again and give that a go this time!:)
 

bruce linde

NAWCC Member
Donor
Nov 13, 2011
10,489
2,223
113
oakland, ca.
clockhappy.com
Country
Region
i seem to remember novicetimekeeper recommending vertical graining on dials... not sure about chapter rings and misc, but would think circular. the british guy whose video on silvering always gets referenced uses 400 grit paper (wet) for graining.
 

Jim DuBois

Gibbs Literary Award
NAWCC Fellow
NAWCC Member
Sponsor
Jun 14, 2008
3,970
1,552
113
Magnolia, TX
Country
Region
Bruce is correct, the brass must be grained, not polished. I usually use 600 wet and dry paper (wet) in graining.
 

Snorty

NAWCC Member
Feb 21, 2021
307
17
18
47
Country
Region
Thanks guys, I wasn’t aware of that part. I’ll get them stripped back and done again. Second time lucky!
The annoying thing is they looked fine upon completion last time :chuckling:
 

novicetimekeeper

Registered User
Jul 26, 2015
12,198
1,523
113
Dorset
Country
Region
Metal polish is definitely not a step in silvering, and yes graining is important. Circular for chapter rings, vertical for flat dials.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Snorty

Snorty

NAWCC Member
Feb 21, 2021
307
17
18
47
Country
Region
Grand…….well thank you all again for the input. I’m sure the second attempt will be more successful..
 

Forum statistics

Threads
177,579
Messages
1,556,349
Members
53,620
Latest member
theolane
Encyclopedia Pages
909
Total wiki contributions
3,058
Last edit
Watch Inspectors by Kent