Linden / Cuckoo Clock Mfg / Badufa Mantel Clock

[Bruce Winchester]

Edit: Chimeclockfan has identified this as a Badufa movement.

I bought this clock for $25 on ebay. The chime and strike work but the time doesn't. I released the tension on the mainspring and rocked the mainspring barrel with my thumb and the train seemed to move freely up through the EW. I'm guessing the mainspring is broken.

After doing a couple of hours of research, I think that I have a Hermle 1051 020 movement, but I'm not sure. If someone could make a positive ID I would appreciate it.

I'd also appreciate it if someone could clue me in about the 82/92/4 marking.

Finally, if I can ask three favors in one post, is this one of those movements manufactured during the time when they made soft chrome-plated pivots?

Thanks!

BTW, this clock sure has a sweet sound.

 

[Rod Schaffter]

Since the company address doesn't include a Zip code, it likely predates the plated pivot era.

Cheers,
Rod

 

[Willie X]

This is not a "modern" Hermle. Probably from the late 1950s to mid 1960s. Few parts are available but it is a good candidate for repair, better than the modern (post 1970) ones.
You probably could replace it with a 351 Hermle but it has little in common with the current movements except the pattern for the winding arbors and handshaft holes. Willie X

 

[chimeclockfan]

This is a Badufa movement from the 1950's, made for Cuckoo Clock Mfg. Co.. The 'hidden' hour strike hammer lift is an easy giveaway when identifying these movements. No the winding arbors do not match the Hermle movements so you'll have to get this movement overhauled instead of replacing it. I do not know of Badufa movements coming with plated pivots.

 

[Bruce Winchester]

Thanks, guys. I'm glad to know it's repairable. I'll remove the mainspring and take a look.

 

[R. Croswell]

I released the tension on the mainspring and rocked the mainspring barrel with my thumb and the train seemed to move freely up through the EW. I'm guessing the mainspring is broken.

If the main spring is broken you can wind, and wind, and wind........ forever and it will never wind up and get tight. Unless the spring is actually broken (will not wind up), the reason(s) that this clock will not run is probably not because of a bad spring. More likely accumulated dirt, dried up old oil , and wear to pivot holes and/or pivots.

RC

 

[shutterbug]

I don't see any evidence of the movement ever being serviced, so it's way overdue. It might cost a bit to have it done for you (unless you have the skill to do it yourself), but having the clock working again will bring you lots of pleasure over the years.

 

[Bruce Winchester]

The main spring winds fine, so I'll take your advice and clean/rebush/lube it first. It doesn't seem like there is much wear, but at this point I don't know enough to know how much wear it takes to stop a clock. Guess I'll be learning.

I want to develop the skill to do it myself so I'll give it a shot and see what happens.

 

[R. Croswell]

The main spring winds fine, so I'll take your advice and clean/rebush/lube it first. It doesn't seem like there is much wear, but at this point I don't know enough to know how much wear it takes to stop a clock. Guess I'll be learning.

I want to develop the skill to do it myself so I'll give it a shot and see what happens.

Your clock can be stopped by a whole lot of wear at one point but is more likely to have wear distributed through out the movement. Don't forget to check for wear at the holes in the spring barrel and barrel cover. You have X amount of power delivered by the spring and it takes Y amount of power delivered to the pendulum to keep it running. Each friction point takes away some available power until there is not enough and the clock stops..

RC

 

[Bruce Winchester]

Your clock can be stopped by a whole lot of wear at one point but is more likely to have wear distributed through out the movement. Don't forget to check for wear at the holes in the spring barrel and barrel cover. You have X amount of power delivered by the spring and it takes Y amount of power delivered to the pendulum to keep it running. Each friction point takes away some available power until there is not enough and the clock stops..

RC

I need to change my way of thinking. I'm used to fixing stuff and looking for the one part that failed. Thanks for your help.

 

[Bruce Winchester]

Then again, maybe one part did fail. I took the mainspring barrel out and found a bulged barrel and a bent second wheel arbor. Also there was a "M" scratched in the barrel which I take as someone had it out to repair.

 

[shutterbug]

Yep. That happens when a spring breaks on the inner coil. The bent arbor will need to be straightened. The bulged barrel will not likely cause an issue as long as the barrel hook catches the spring and holds it. Also check the barrel for cracks.

 

[R. Croswell]

Yes, I believe you have found the problem. Also check for bent gear teeth on the barrel. The bulge in the barrel can make it difficult to get the outer end of the spring to hook securely. The impact may also have loosened the anchor pin.

RC.

 

[Bruce Winchester]

I can't see any signs of bent gear teeth on any of the gears. There are cracks running from the tab slot. I think I'll stop drill those cracks, remove the tab and bulge, and then put a rivet on the opposite side to hold the spring per Conover's book.

 

[Willie X]

No need to worry about the cracks. Moving the hook will cure your problems but installing a good hook is not as easy as it may seem. You can buy a new barrel for about 15 bucks. Willie X

 

[Rod Schaffter]

I don't think one can purchase a barrel for this movement...

Cheers, Rod

 

[THTanner]

Early version of the Hermle 351-020? wonder if the barrels are close enough?

 

[Bruce Winchester]

So what is the tricky part about installing a riveted pin? Seems fairly straightforward - turn a pin, drill a hole, peen it in place.
Is it better to cut and bend a new tab like the original?

 

[Willie X]

This is sort of a twisted up thread. The title said "Hermle" which was incorrect. Chime IDed the movement as a BADUF. I mentioned buying a new barrel and Rod correctly stated that such a barrel is not available new. Soooo, I guess it's: look for a good used replacement for the damaged BADUF barrel, or redo the old barrel with a new hook.
Note, the original hole was made with a stamp punch. AFAIK this is not an option. And it takes quite a bit of equipment and experience to replace a tiny little barrel hook.
Willie X

 

[Bruce Winchester]

I edited the title to help straighten out the confusion.