Lantern pinion wire extension for countwheel

[Bob Reichel]

On some standard American 8-day brass clock movements, the countwheel is operated (advanced) by an extended pin in the lantern pinion of the next wheel. What is the best or accepted method of retaining the pin from coming or falling out? After years and years of repairing clocks, this is the first time I've had a missing pin. Using the same diameter of pinion wire as the rest of the wires, does not keep it from drifting out.

 

[doc_fields]

Bob;
Did you try peening (or flattening) the end of the wire a bit before driving it into the pinion cap?.............doc

 

[Bob Reichel]

I understand your theroy, but most pinion wire is very hard and resists peening. My take may be to use oversize wire and force it into the lower coller. Peening around the upper collar might work but this is the working end and would not seem to last.

 

[shutterbug]

You could ask David LaBounty if he has the wheel. Might be easier in the long run I can't recall for sure if it is straight or has a 90 degree bend.

 

[Mike Phelan]

I understand your theroy, but most pinion wire is very hard and resists peening.

Aren't most USA lantern pinion wires quite soft? Even, maybe, just mild steel? I'd peen the end opposite to the extended trundle.

 

[Joseph Bautsch]

Bob - I've had several works with the same problem. To get it locked in place I used a small amount of high strength epoxy glue in the opposite blind hole collar. Slide the trundle into the hole with the epoxy and it locks in place. I did that on one clock several years ago and it's sill running and striking. I used this method because it does not alter the lantern pinion collars in any way, it's invisible, and if it ever has to be reworked in the future it's easy to reverse the repair.If you use a larger diameter trundle you may run into problems with it meshing properly with the count wheel.

 

[al_taka]

Staking it in place would be my choice, the challenge is to make a anvil to fit into the lantern to support the disk while you tap from the other side with a hollow stake.

Another idea, clean the hole and wire, tin them with TIX solder, heat and slide together. There is very little force on that pin and tix would be stronger than epoxy also be resistant to chemical cleanings in the future.

 

[Gary Walker]

I have used a flat file with a lathe to undersize the end of the pin that extends out of the pinion to move the count wheel. Used a drill to make the hole just large enough to let the extension through and then staked the hole as needed to keep the larger diameter wire inside the pinion. I let the wire have some swagger but I don't think that is necessary as I have learned from this message board. Good Luck!

 

[bangster]

As long as we're talking about solder and epoxy, why not LocTite 609 retaining compound? Easy to apply, holds dang near forever, and is reversible.

bangster

 

[oldetymes]

I've not come across such a design and would appreciate seeing a picture of this for future reference.

thx much

Dave @ Olde Tymes

 

[Joseph Bautsch]

Turning down the end of a trundle engaging the count wheel still does not account for an oversize wire throwing out the meshing of the wheel teeth it was designed to work with. I would not change the size of the wire. Using epoxy, LocTite 609, or solder will do the job.

 

[Bob Reichel]

Thanks for the ideas. Used the solder idea and all is well now. I was hoping for someone to tell us how the wire was originally installed at the factory. Its probably not obvious and the peening of the end in the lower trundle seems plausible. Also closing the hole in the upper collar would seem to add to its retention.