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Ladies’ watches with Nickel plates.

Tom McIntyre

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When doing a little study of the Fitch Patent dustproof case. I noticed that the nickel 1873 8 size ladies' watch was a vert early example.

Ladies watches in America started with the Waltham 1861 model that was available in Appleton Tracy and P. S. Bartlett grade. There is also one run listed in American Watch Co. grade (10 watches), but I have never seen one of those. In any case, they were all believe to be gilt finished.

The American Watch Co. grade 1868 model was the first Waltham nickel finished watch, but United States watch Co. Marion may have beaten them to market. Howard also produced some early nickel finish watches but those were nickel plated brass I believe.

The next ladies watch at Waltham was the 1865 model that was not brought to market until 1866.

The database tool at https://nawccinfo.nawcc.org allows one to specify attributes of the watches in the database to search for them. In the case of nickel watches, the early production where the model was primarily gilt, has the nickel plate included as a comment in the ledgers and in the database.

The questions you may ask of the database use the "'%" character as a wild card so you can find nickel in a comment that contains other words %nick% in the comment field will work. For numbers such as dates, sizes, or jewel counts you may put the = character in front of the number and also use the < or > character for larger or smaller.

Here is the form that will find all of the runs of smaller watches with nickel plates and more than 14 jewels.

1653419669943.png
There are actually quite a few runs that match that request. It returns 282 production runs with a total production of 153,197. If you also put lad% in the "plate" field to request those with Ladies for the plate value, the list is much smaller with only 50 runs totalling 7,797 watches. The use of ladies as a plate design name was dropped around 1874 and 3/4 was used to describe the ladies watches and other 3/4 plate styles.

One of the interesting results of this search is that the 1865 model 10 size ladies watch, which was almost all gilt finish had some nickel watches near the end of that model as the 1873 model 8 size watch was being introduced. The first nickel ladies watch was the 1865 model in a run of 500 ATCo grade. The next was the 1873 model 8 size which started 6 months later, but took 4 years to complete all 500 watches. Then the run of P.S. Bartlett was started in 12/1873 and completed in 7/1874. The next run after that was Am'n grade and included the watch I showed in an earlier thread on Fitch's patent dustproof cases.

EarliestLatestFirstLastCountModelGradeSizeJewels
TypeStyleProv.DateCmt
6/18735/18747025017030005001865ATCo104 pr15ladiesKWMH1/2003nickel
12/18733/18777210017215005001873Amn84 pr15ladiesHCMH1/2003ea92 \ sw \
12/18737/18747330017336006001865PSB104 pr15ladiesKWMH1/2003nickel
10/18748/18757336017339103101865ATCo104 pr15ladiesKWMH1/2003nickel

On a whim, I bought an 1865 model from the run shown above several years ago, without thinking too much about the fact that it was nickel. I will post some pictures of it here to give a little color to this post.

IMG_5185.jpg IMG_5186.jpg IMG_5189.jpg IMG_5188.jpg IMG_5190.jpg IMG_5187.jpg
 
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MrRoundel

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Here's a nickel 10s AT&Co that is from the same run as Tom's last posted. I was pretty sure that it was a scarce plate finish. I'm also optimistic that this one will be a runner with a basic service. I wouldn't be surprised if it was once in a comparable gold case, but has lost it to the ages. Admittedly, she looks pretty good naked.

Presently, there seems to be a fresh burst of fine movements being put up for sale without their cases. Sad, but presents opportunities for those who are mostly buying the machine, and perhaps can't afford, or can't justify to partners, complete solid gold watches. Cheers.

ATCoNickel10s.jpg ATCoNickel10sDial.jpg
 

MrRoundel

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I just noticed that my nickel AT&Co 10s is missing what is probably a gold escutcheon/guard on the center key-setting square. That won't be an easy get.

Funny, a post from John Pavlik came in just as I was typing this. Interesting that it is missing the escutcheon as well. Hmm...maybe they're not missing? Oh...a Bartlett...I guess that is the one.
Cheers.
 

Clint Geller

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... Howard also produced some early nickel finish watches but those were nickel plated brass I believe.
Tom, you are correct that the first Howard movements with nickel finish were nickel plated brass. The nickel plated Model 1862N ("Series III") movement with the lowest SN in my records is 18,097, but it has a Reed's patent regulator, so it almost definetely was held back and finished out of sequence a year or two later than its adjacent SNs. The example that was actually the first nickel plated Howard movement is SN 21,561 with Mershon's patent regulator, finished on July 23, 1869. The first Howard movement with solid nickel plates was also stem wound and pendant set. It was L Size Model 1869 ("Series V") movement SN 52,001, finished on June 2, 1870. The first N Size Howard movement with solid nickel plates is Model 1871 (Series IV) keywind movement SN 30,201, finished on July 24, 1871. These SN's and dates are all in my 2005 book.
 

MrRoundel

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My Appleton Tracy doesn't have the nickel plates, but it has the gold escutcheon.
That in itself is interesting. While it's only been rather recently that I've paid a lot of attention to the 10s KW's, I don't believe I've seen another gilt AT&Co. with gold escutcheons. They seem to use brass for most. Yours looks like it might be a rather special example. Is it in an R&A or B&T case? I ask this because those are the two that are highlighted by Roy Ehrhardt in his Waltham Pocket Watch Identification and Price Guide. Regardless, it looks like another choice gold case out of your stable of many. Cheers.
 

Ethan Lipsig

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MrRoundel, my Model 1865 Appleton Tracy KW is not in an R&A or B&T case. It's in a pretty 18k AWCO case. I am not not a Model 1865 expert. I'd be interested in knowing whether there's anything unusual or special about my watch. Somewhere, probably in another thread here or in the NAWCC bulletin, I read that Model 1865s came in three types, and within types, in different series. Hence, there would be some differences among Model 1865s depending on the type and series. I understand that my watch is a Type 1, Series 3. That's the extent of what I know about it.

App Tracy 10.jpg IMG_0547_edited.JPG IMG_0549_edited.JPG IMG_0548_edited.JPG IMG_0550_edited.JPG IMG_0551.JPG IMG_0552.JPG IMG_0553.JPG IMG_0554.JPG
 

MrRoundel

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That's another beauty, Ethan. Thanks for the added images. As far as expertise in the 10s key-winds, I believe that one of the forum's foremost researchers is on that case now. And as such, I suspect we'll be getting some quality information provided sometime in the not so distant future. Cheers.
 

John Pavlik

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Of interest, my # 767701 is missing the date number 1865 from around the setting arbor that is seen on earlier examples … Appears the key cup, on other examples in the mid 700,000’s could have been deleted at this point in production .. ?? A silver colored washer
May have been substituted under the setting square …
 

Jerry Treiman

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I understand that my watch is a Type 1, Series 3.
I suspect we'll be getting some quality information provided sometime in the not so distant future.
I am working on my attempt at understanding Waltham's series of 10-size keywind models and hope to post an addendum to a prior thread looking at this problem. Early Waltham 10-size confusion ...

Ethan's watch would be an 1861 model, 2nd Series. Roy Ehrhardt assigned the 1865 model year to this movement, but Waltham never used that designation.

This figure shows Ehrhardt's EA diagrams with annotation indicating how I believe Waltham designated these models. (Roy's model labels below the figures are inconsistent and incorrect).
EA models.jpg

Of interest, my # 767701 is missing the date number 1865 from around the setting arbor
I have seen a few of the 2nd Series 1861 models that lack the patent date. Can you post a photo of your movement? There are several other characteristics that help define this model.
 

Jerry Treiman

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Jerry, it is posted in post # 5 …
Ooops. Thanks. Yours is also a 2nd Series 1861 model. The 1st Series had four screws holding down the train bridge and the 2nd Series has only three (with the pillars relocated to support the plate). The 2nd Series is what Ehrhardt called an 1865 model, no doubt due to the patent date.
 

MrRoundel

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Of interest, my # 767701 is missing the date number 1865 from around the setting arbor that is seen on earlier examples … Appears the key cup, on other examples in the mid 700,000’s could have been deleted at this point in production .. ?? A silver colored washer
May have been substituted under the setting square …
OK, that does make some sense. At first it looked to me as if Ethan's example had both the key cup (Perhaps correct term?) and the silver washer. Looking it again, that washer appears to be smaller in diameter, and probably flat, where the one on both yours and my nickel examples are cupped a bit. They do look large enough to protect the plates from scratches, provided the case has a dust cover with good access openings for the key.
 

Jerry Treiman

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For those who want to venture down the rabbit hole I have posted a summary of my studies on the first three 10-size keywind models.
 
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