l Finally took on that Atmos.

Just-in-time

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Never say never.
I finally tackled the Atmos I have at home.
Complete strip and clean, right down to the Jewel end caps.
Changed Suspension Spring, Polished pivots. Poised Balance and Fork, oil to only the necessary pivots, and cleaned and oiled the mainspring assembly. Thanks to those who shared their knowledge.up and running like a dream. ☺

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wow

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I just got my first Atmos in. Afraid to do anything without a lot of advise. All I know is how to adjust the two screws to get the bubble in the middle of the circle. It won't run. I have gotten many 400 day clocks going, but never tried an Atmos. Where do I start? Any good threads I can read to help me get started? Help!!!!
 

KurtinSA

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What model Atmos is it? Ed provided some basic instructions in this post:

My dream clock Atmos, finally. No the head scatching begins. lol

but it appears to have been lost as a result of the forum transition. I've raised the issue with the Admins...or maybe Ed will repost.

Update...the link has been fixed, but that's not the instructions that Ed provided. Waiting on Ed....

Kurt
 
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wow

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379239 is stamped on the top of the fast/slow adjustment. I cannot find a model number. It was a 1973 presentation clock.
 

KurtinSA

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Look under the base...that's where my model number was. My Atmos had a S/N above 5 million and was a last quarter 1978 model, so the 1973 date makes sense.

Kurt
 

KurtinSA

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I don't know the ranges of the models...John will know better. But the paper "Living on Air" indicates that the 528-8 was in the catalogs from 1968 to 1984. Other models were available at the time I believe.

Kurt
 

Just-in-time

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My own experience with finding information was interesting.

Apart from Ed one or two kind repair guys, very few people commented or share information on ATMOS clocks for some reason.

Perhaps due to the high cost of repairs, and the limited availability of parts, it has become is a bit of niche market for some guys to take on the repairs.

But like most clocks, you need to start at the beginning if the clock is not running.

We must remember that many of these clocks have not been serviced for decades.

A Varity of things could be wrong, assuming that no one has worked on the clock before you and botch up anything.

NB* If you are going to work on this clock and strip and clean the movement.

You will need some special tools.

If you try to remove the minute hand, with a standard hand remover you will break the pivot.

You will only find a replacement on E Bay and it could cost you a small fortune.

I will mention some of the points that I have read about , or applied in my repair, while I was researching the Internet.

1.The spirit level bubble may say the clock is level, but the level could be faulty, and the

Balance (the pendulum type device that is suspend from the suspension spring) may be rubbing at the bottom against the opening. So check that it is in the center of the opening at the bottom and not rubbing.

2.After all the years of not servicing, the mainspring could be gummed up with old hardened grease.
It will have to be stripped cleaned and lubricated lightly with the correct lubricant.
This must be done as part of a service anyway.

3.The suspension spring could be damaged, or twisted out of shape. You may be able to save it. Replacements can be found at most clock parts supply houses

Replacing the suspension will involve stripping out the Balance.
But it can be done without stripping the movement.

4.At this time you may decide to strip the movement, including the jewel end caps and to cleaning everything.

5.That is if you have the tools and ability to do so. You can then check all the pivots, and peg out the holes and clean the parts and check for cracked jewels or bent pivots.

6.There is rarely any wear to the pivots, as the clock runs dry (without oil) and very slowly . Good quality watch oil is only used in the one or two points as recommended in the repair notes. The repair notes are a must.

7.If you replace the suspension, you will need to poise the balance. (A interesting process, but it can be done if you have the notes)

8.You strip the movement, you will need to poise the balance fork as well, which may be out of poise if someone has worked on the clock. (Another interesting process as these pivots are as fine as those in a wristwatch, as are the fork jewels.)

9. Polishing the roller assembly and pivots, and checking and cleaning the pivots and pivot holes is a must. Also cleaning of the plates, in a suitable cleaning solution, is also advisable. Not a harsh Ammonia solution, taking care that you don’t remove the lacquer coating.

10. This clocks need to be very clean to run correctly and accurately.

11. The bellows must be checked, but they appear to be responsible for only about 20% of failures of these clocks, according to one site.

12. If they are faulty you could be in for 100 USD or more for a replacement.

That is just some of what comes to mind right now.

The good news is that the AWCI , and other outlets have the Gerald Jaeger videos on SERVICING THE ATMOS CLOCK it was a great help to me.

Tool set for ATMOS is also sold by most clock house.

The Repair notes are on E Bay or on the Internet and you may find a copy for download if you are lucky.



Good Luck

Mark
 
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wow

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Mark, thank you very much for your detailed reply. The clock I have looks like it has never been serviced. The suspension spring looks fine. The bubble balance looks ok too because the pendulum turns freely, not touching anything. There is power in the wheels but it will not keep running. I suspect that you are right about the dryness of the pivots and possibly the mainspring. I am about to go on a search of the notes you mentioned. Thanks for the info on the hand removal. I would have tried my hand remover I use on regular clocks and made a mess. I will be back later after research. Any other advise from others is appreciated.
 

Ed O'Brien

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You do not have to worry about dry pivots except those at each end of the mainspring, as all others run dry in jewels. Sounds like a dry mainspring failing to transfer power to the gears, assuming the bellows is okay and the m/s indicates it is fully wound.
 

TQ60

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Go to timesavers and order a hand removal tool as one can be made but the pre made one works very well.

Modify some screwdrivers to properly fit the screws.

Before working in it read all of the atmos information at atmosman.com as it will be a great help.

Check the winding chain position to indicate general bellows and or winding status.

Get the clock level and start it per instructions and observe what happens.

When you are comfortable to work start by removing hands carefully then get the mainspring cleaned and oiled.

Put it back together but leave off bellows and hands face and other stuff until it is running well.

Do not worry yet about cleaning the movement as it requires a good steady hand.

If you are lucky servicing the mainspring will get it done.

Report back as you go and remember to ask before taking a risk if you are not sure.
 
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