Kundo Kundo Clock Missing Parts

[KurtinSA]

I picked this clock up for little money at the recent regional in Mesquite. It just says Kundo and Germany on the back...I don't know anything else about it. Stands 8" tall. It's been treated badly and know that I'm missing a suspension spring and need to connect it somehow at the top and bottom. The top connection for the spring appears to be bent...that should be level right? Also, I don't have the "flag" that would attach to the spring to hit the small toothed wheel that appears to be used to "kick" the pendulum back the other direction. The battery contacts need to be cleaned up a bit.

I'm also having trouble getting the pendulum out of the clock. I've lowered the lock as far as it will go, but it won't allow the pendulum to come out. I guess I can loosen the nuts underneath to allow the columns, etc., to move up a bit...I only need about 1mm to get it to clear.

Can anyone point me to other pictures of this clock so I can get an idea of what I need to do to get things back together?

Kurt

 

[KurtinSA]

Finally was able to determine this is likely a Kundo Miniature 79 with a suspension spring setup shown as #65A in the repair guide. Unlikely to be able to find anything like that. Will have to think how it would be possible to modify the pendulum to accept a standard bottom block. Not to mention finding a "flag" that would work...maybe a simple 400-day fork positioned just right.

Kurt

 

[KurtinSA]

Score!! I visited a local clock shop...he mostly carries other "real" clocks...he currently considers anniversary-type clocks as novelty clocks! He's a former NAWCC member and has helped me out in the past. I believe he has some hulks in the back and has sold me a part of two.

Before I started butchering this thing, I figured I'd check with him. He kept shaking his head, but went to check one more thing. He brings this out. OMG! Probably the last one available on the planet! And brand new!!

I need to clean up some of the brasso that seems to be spread around and then work to fit this. Should be interesting.

Kurt

 

[KurtinSA]

Hold the phone. In looking at it, appears I have 64A with the long black extension which won't work for this clock. 64A is for a standard clock...but that was all he had. So, I'll have to see if I can cut the extension down to size and maybe find a way to remold the spring back into the stub that's left. Hmmmm....

Kurt

 

[KurtinSA]

I've been staring at this clock, trying to get up the courage to hack up the long suspension spring I have and convert to a shorter spring needed for the miniature version of the clock. Before that, I've tried some fittings but am perplexed how the "top block" is held. For the flag on the spring to be the right position to interact with the toothed wheel that rotates at the back, the top block of the suspension unit doesn't have anything to attach to. Has anyone seen pictures of this clock, especially the top block/saddle area to see how this all comes together? I've tried googling "kundo miniature 79", even looking for the standard version of this clock, but I'm not finding anything...only my own posts.

Thanks for any ideas...Kurt

 

[MartinM]

Do any of the Perrin units look correct.
kundo suspension

 

[KurtinSA]

Unit 64A is what I currently have in hand. I really need 65A which is just a little shorter...I had planned to hack up my longer one and make the shorter one. The reason 64A/65A seem to be the right ones is that the lower block/plug is what was left on the pendulum with my clock. But the top block or button is too small to be supported by the top saddle. The top block on this one:

Kundo 538202 400 Day Clock Suspension Unit

looks like it might work, but the bottom block is all wrong. The flags are molded around the suspension spring so there is no way of swapping it around.

I wish I could find a picture of an existing clock so I know the pieces that are needed.

Kurt

 

[KurtinSA]

I think I have what I need...sort of. See the picture...I have unit 64A but really need 65A. What needs to happen is a couple of things. First, I'd like to cut the lower part of the bottom block off of 64A so that it can be used if needed as a new bottom block. The bottoms of 64A and 65A are really the same...64A just has the added plastic shaft. I have a bottom block already...it was captured in the top of the pendulum when I bought the clock. But if I cut 64A down, I'll have two. I've already taken the opportunity to center drill my orphan bottom block for eventual insertion/gluing of the suspension spring.

The second thing is that I need to recover as much of the suspension spring from unit 64A to transplant into the spare bottom block. I have no idea how far the suspension spring goes into the plastic shaft on 64A. So, I need to carefully dissect it so I can recover that spring. Hopefully there's enough in the plastic shaft so that I can move over to the spare block that I have. As seen in the image, the length has to be right in order for the pendulum to line up at the right spot.

Any suggestions or surgically cutting off the bottom of the 64A unit and then getting into the plastic barrel to recover all of the suspension spring that is there?

Thanks...Kurt

 

[KurtinSA]

OK, for all those following along! I think I've come up with a plan. I went to buddies' house and we blue-skied this.

I think I'll consider several of options:

1) Cut off the bottom of 64A to create a duplicate for the bottom block that I have that came with the clock. Measure the distance A and transfer that to 64A. Maybe cut a little bigger than A and file it back. Then, find some chemical, probably acetone, that will dissolve/soften the remaining plastic barrel on 64A allowing me to extra the wire. If I can get that to happen, then I can slip the end of the suspension wire into either of the two bottom blocks and glue it in place.

2) Still cut off the bottom of 64A just to create a backup bottom block. Then cut the plastic barrel on 64A as shown by the dotted lines. This will leave the wire attached to the stub of plastic. Take either of the two bottom blocks and sand away the stub that sticks up. Then carefully rig up a way to accurately glue the small stub with wire attached to the flat area that has been sanded clean. This will be somewhat tricky both to saw off the plastic barrel and then to reconnect the two pieces together in the center and have it hold.

3) Same as 1) but somehow find a way to "filet" open the piece of plastic that encases the wire. This seems problematic and prone to dame to the suspension unit as well as my body!

I like 1) as it's the most straightforward. I can experiment with acetone on some of the plastic and see if it's going to work. If I can't find anything, then I can abandon that and proceed to 2).

I think!!

Kurt