Kundo anniv. 9" won't run

[Pioneer]

I guess I'm not fully understanding the beat setting then. If I turn it manually until I get a click, then release it back the other way, the other click occurs at approximately the same point on the other side. They are too close together though. I will do more reading and play with it some more.

 

[Pioneer]

Its definitely something way different in what mine is doing, and the clocks I see people setting the beat on on YouTube. Theirs don't click until the pendulum goes almost 180 deg back the other way. My clicks like 90-110 degrees apart. If I lower the fork any more, it starts fluttering and skipping teeth on the escapement. If I raise the fork, the clicks seem to get even closer together. Dunno what I'm doing wrong.

 

[Randy Beckett]

Try this in regard to setting the beat. . Start the pendulum and make small adjustments as the swing diminishes, without stopping the pendulum. The less overswing you have, the easier it is to tell which side has more. When both sides barely release, just as the pendulum stops to change direction, the beat is perfect. On a clock with no other known problems, I set the beat this way, with only 1 turn of mainspring power.

Watch the escape wheel rather than listening to the clicks and see if that helps.

 

[shutterbug]

The beat looks fine to me. Good over swing too. I agree that the lock is extreme, but not sure why that would stop the clock. There is hesitation during the impulse, so I wonder how smooth the pins are in the pallet.

 

[Tinker Dwight]

Problem wasn't his clock it was my glitchy computer.
I got a clean run and it was balanced.
Bring the fork down until it just flutters and back it slightly.
No use putting the fork else where.
If it still quits, there has to be something else wrong.
Tinker Dwight

 

[macaw]

Something you can try if the pins seem to be dragging, not the best thing but it can work if all else fails, is put a very fine coat of clock oil on the teeth of the escape wheel. Not the best thing, but it is mentioned in the book, and it does work (if all else fails).

 

[Pioneer]

Shutterbug, the tiny pins themselves are very smooth, the escape wheel itself is not finished really well- under a magnifier the surfaces the pins ride on are scratchy looking. However, since I'm not getting enough impulse to run, I'm hesitant to try and polish and remove any material, even if it is s miniscule. What would you polish the EW teeth with? Given the small size of the critical surfaces I am loathe to attempt it. All I can imagine to attempt it is various needle files wrapped in paper with a bit of rouge?

Consider that even going like it was in my video, it stopped after a while- don't know how long as I was not watching it- less than half an hour though, and the face & hands aren't even on it. I did let the spring back down, and checked the end play on shafts- they all had end play, and dropped with gravity.

Can someone please tell me how to get the back cover off the spring barrel without buggering it up?

My ideal scenario, in my head is to dump this seemingly jacked up pin pallet escapement, and put in an updated adjustable escapement. I hope to hear back from Horolovar saying that is possible.

Regardless, I think I'm going to put a NEW mainspring and suspension spring in it and go from there.

At this point, I have the beat messed up again as I tried to make it better, and ended up making it worse.

I will not give up though, this thing is a family heirloom, even if its in rough shape cosmetically.

 

[Randy Beckett]

Pioneer,
I wish this wasn't a family piece of yours or I would try to trade you out of it. I have a small collection of the pin pallet miniature and midget clocks, and don't have one like yours. A
notable difference in operation of the pin pallet models vs the Graham deadbeat models, that I have learned from the other models, that should also apply to yours.

The escapement is less prone to flutter with a low fork. When the clock flutters on mine, the fork is WAY too low. But there is a small range just above this position that will not allow the clock to flutter, but also does not transfer enough impulse to the pendulum to keep it going, but rather, the pin slides quickly across the impulse face in one or two short bursts, giving impulse to the pendulum impulse over a short duration of only a few degrees.

Try raising the fork until the 2 points that the escapement releases are 150-160 degrees apart and see what happens. This will give a impulse to the pendulum with a longer duration. These clocks typicall have less overall swing(180-210 degrees) than the deadbeat models, so the overswing will be less, making a good beat set critical.

Like Tinker, the videos are too jumpy on my computer to draw definite conclusions about.

 

[macaw]

It's not that bad cosmetically, Simichrome will clean up the tarnish. (I've cleaned up a lot worse). A long needle nose pliers in the hole in the spring barrel will pop off the cover without messing it up. A new main spring might help as I just found out on a clock I'm working on after I slipped letting down the spring and toasted the barrel. I couldn't keep it running either until I put in a different spring (and barrel). & I wouldn't be in a hurry to dump the pin pallet, when they work, they work well.

 

[Tinker Dwight]

I 'd mention, don't bother to replace the suspension spring.
It only effects the rate of the clock, not the going.
The main spring could be an issue.
I've been watching the second video and did notice one thing.
The depth of the lock from the over swing on the entrance
pallet is slightly less than the exit pallet. This could be
a tight fork on the pin.
It wasn't real consistent but you can see it.
These pallets do have a slight imbalance but it shouldn't be
enough to notice.
Also, there is a slight imbalance on the amount of recoil.
Some teeth had more then others.
It was mentioned, to put a tiny amount of oil on the escapement
teeth. You might do this and see if it will run for a while. After
which you can clean it off again with BrakeKlean from the auto
store.
It might be that there is a tiny amount of old oil on the surfaces
that is just enough to gum it up.
Tinker Dwight

 

[Randy Beckett]

Can someone please tell me how to get the back cover off the spring barrel without buggering it up?

.

You hold the barrel in the palm of your hand, cap down, then strike the end of the arbor with a plastic hammer or a block of wood. Usually one or two strikes and the cap will pop off. To put it back on, I use a small vice and "walk" the cap around the barrel until it pops back on.

 

[Pioneer]

Thanks, whacked it, spring cover came right off. Spring looked good. Cleaned pivots more, inspected every wheel again.
Putting it back together again.

 

[Tinker Dwight]

You can't really check a spring by viewing it in the barrel.
If it is a set spring, you have to remove it to see how
much it expands.
Tinker Dwight

 

[Pioneer]

I mainly wanted to see the spring to make sure it was not gunked up with grease or anything my dad may have done back in the day trying to make it work. No idea about the metallurgy in this spring, but it was packed away in my parents attic, in South Georgia- for the last 35+ years. It can get 140 deg. in attics down here. That shouldn't seriously hurt a piece of spring steel, but it was wound up- probably 3/4 of a full wind. That's a lot of heat cycles on a piece of stressed metal. I don't know if that could cause a 'set'. Now whether that's my problem or not, I dont have a way of determining. A new spring can't hurt matters for sure.

 

[shutterbug]

See post #27

 

[Pioneer]

I ordered a retrofit Graham escapement assembly from Horolovar. They will be matching parts from a known-to-function movement. With any luck, the escapement will function correctly as recieved. I'm crossing my fingers. Of course, I will have my existing parts if I ever want to put it back original. At least if the new parts don't function in my movement, they will have the capability of being adjusted. Thanks for everyone's help so far. I have learned a LOT about these clocks in a short period of time thanks to you guys. I will report back after receiving and installing the parts.
James

 

[AndyDWA]

A thought for others to comment on.

The fork is installed in what I would consider an "upside-down" manner. I see the guide has this as an option on some of the relevant units, but is it necessarily right for this clock? What would be the expected changes from flipping it over but leaving the tines at the same position (thereby shortening the gap to the top block)?

Also, watching video #2, the impulse looks very different on individual teeth on the entry side (right of screen). In some cases, the pin lurches across the impulse face, presumably delivering little impulse at all, while on other teeth it slides smoothly across the surface. Given the incredible amount of over-swing (~100-120deg each way) and only ~90deg between escapes, it seems to me the fork could be raised to maybe address this.

Disclaimer: I'm still learning.

 

[Randy Beckett]

A thought for others to comment on.

The fork is installed in what I would consider an "upside-down" manner. I see the guide has this as an option on some of the relevant units, but is it necessarily right for this clock? What would be the expected changes from flipping it over but leaving the tines at the same position (thereby shortening the gap to the top block)?

By flipping the fork over, but leaving the tines in the same location, you are correct that this is only shortening the distance between the top of the fork clamp and the bottom block. This small portion of suspension spring creates back tension as it is twisted, and the more it is twisted the stronger this back tension is. This back tension neutralizes part of the impulse as it twists. Making the length of this top portion of the spring shorter, makes it stronger as it twists, increasing the back tension. It is possible for this back tension to be strong enough to completely neutralize the impulse just as it reaches the end of it's stroke. This will cause the momentum of the pendulum, which is always lagging behind, to actually catch up with the fork and give the fork a little boost, causing the escapement to release. When this happens, the fork will not be under tension to spring the escapement backwards onto the impulse face, causing it to flutter.

At least that is the way I see it.

Also, watching video #2, the impulse looks very different on individual teeth on the entry side (right of screen). In some cases, the pin lurches across the impulse face, presumably delivering little impulse at all, while on other teeth it slides smoothly across the surface. Given the incredible amount of over-swing (~100-120deg each way) and only ~90deg between escapes, it seems to me the fork could be raised to maybe address this.

Disclaimer: I'm still learning.

This observation was the reason for my recommendation in Post #58.

 

[Pioneer]

Guys, I flipped the fork over and tried both ways- multiple times, and have adjusted it in every conceivable elevation from as low as it could go, to as high as it could go- in as small an increments as I could manage, and adjusted for beat at each fork adjustment. It will flutter like heck if the fork is too low. I decided to order the new parts after I got serious inspecting the existing escapement wheel and anchor. I chucked the escapement wheel shaft in the hobby lathe (Unimat SL) and checked the teeth height with an indicator. I discovered that a few of the teeth are indeed a few thousanths shorter than the rest. Also, I discovered the anchor pivot shaft has a bit of runout to it. Now, I don't know the tolerances these parts should be made to- and I could probably straighten the anchor pivot shaft, but I would prefer to upgrade to the Graham escapement that has proven to work well, and be adjustable. The replacement parts can be had quite reasonably, so I figured why not upgrade it? I know a few of you are of the opinion that the mainspring should be ok- and I agree, it should be. But, I'm on a mission to make this clock run- I intend to put it on my mantelpiece and use it. I ordered a new mainspring and some new suspension springs as well. I'm currently getting the parts layed out to build a spring winder in the meantime. I'm sure I'll get some use out of it, as I have found several clocks on my workbench in the last few years and I find I enjoy tinkering with them as a hobby.

 

[Randy Beckett]

Guys, I flipped the fork over and tried both ways- multiple times, and have adjusted it in every conceivable elevation from as low as it could go, to as high as it could go- in as small an increments as I could manage, and adjusted for beat at each fork adjustment. It will flutter like heck if the fork is too low. I decided to order the new parts after I got serious inspecting the existing escapement wheel and anchor. I chucked the escapement wheel shaft in the hobby lathe (Unimat SL) and checked the teeth height with an indicator. I discovered that a few of the teeth are indeed a few thousanths shorter than the rest. Also, I discovered the anchor pivot shaft has a bit of runout to it. Now, I don't know the tolerances these parts should be made to- and I could probably straighten the anchor pivot shaft, but I would prefer to upgrade to the Graham escapement that has proven to work well, and be adjustable. The replacement parts can be had quite reasonably, so I figured why not upgrade it? I know a few of you are of the opinion that the mainspring should be ok- and I agree, it should be. But, I'm on a mission to make this clock run- I intend to put it on my mantelpiece and use it. I ordered a new mainspring and some new suspension springs as well. I'm currently getting the parts layed out to build a spring winder in the meantime. I'm sure I'll get some use out of it, as I have found several clocks on my workbench in the last few years and I find I enjoy tinkering with them as a hobby.

No criticism aimed at you regarding your decision. I hope the new anchor and escape wheel works for you. Kundo had a reason for discontinuing this design, and it likely had something to do with the clocks not running.

 

[Pioneer]

Randy, It's all good man, sorry if I gave the impression I was defensive. I just felt a need to partially explain my position. I usually would not throw in the towel on something such as this, but I reached the point with it to where I was looking at moving the anchor pivot by bending on the peninsula, and/or bending the pallet pins themselves on the anchor. Studying my tiny pallet pins protruding from my anchor with the maginifier, they are not perfectly straight- they are bent a minute amount. I do not know if they are bent from damage, or purposely bent that way to tweak at the factory, or if my father had bent them trying to 'fix' it at some point. That's another variable I'm dealing with- my father 'worked' on this clock probably 40 years ago trying to get it to work also- and he did not have the good advice I'm getting from the forum to help him. The repair guide materials I am reading (not really sure what it is from as I found the document online- excerpts from a chapter 7, with troubleshooting charts and explanations) pretty much said that the pin pallet type escapement was not really intended to be altered or adjusted after it left the factory. Someday, I may want to put the old parts back in, and suss out the problem, but for now I just want the clock to run, and there are more variables going on here than a novice such as myself am comfortable with. I have pulled the plates apart & back together at least 10 times at this point (which I don't regret as, I enjoy it) and still cannot get it to run. I feel like I am gonna wear the screws out on the suspension block hanger and the fork from all the trial and adjusting I have done. I corresponded with Chris at Horolovar, and he did not have a set of pin pallet type escapement parts at this time, but he did have the Graham parts on hand. Hopefully, I'll be able to put the new parts in, and have a functioning clock. I have a feeling some adjustments may be required to the new parts, but at least I won't be bending pins and hoping for them not to break off. Anyway, I appreciate the help and advice you guys are giving me- I intend to see this thing through and get this clock working- Lord willing, and you fine folks willing to help me. The bug has bitten me- I'm already considering picking up another 400 day- a standard sized Kundo one of my relatives has. There is also an old Cuckoo clock packed away somewhere in my parents attic that I have not found yet- I know its up there though- my mom never threw anything out. I got the confirmation my parts shipped today, so it shouldn't be long.

 

[Pioneer]

Ok, so I received my Graham escapement parts, new suspension spring, and mainspring. I quickly installed the escapements, and suspension spring- and tried it out- still will not stay running. I just installed the parts 'as-received' I have not attempted any adjustments to the escapement. This is without the face parts installed. I think I wil go ahead and finish my spring winder and change out that mainspring before monking with adjustments. I'll try and post another video.

 

[macaw]

In one of the many times you had it apart, did you clean all the gears & pivots, and peg the holes?

 

[Pioneer]

Yes, cleaned everything but the mainspring with brake parts cleaner, toothbrushed gear teeth, gently cleaned pivot holes with toothpicks & pipe cleaners.

 

[Pioneer]

Just a quick update, I'm still working on the spring winder. Broke my bandsaw blade and dont have another on hand. Having to go primitive with a hack saw. Once I get that done, I'll change the spring & get the clock back together and see where I'm at and post a video.

 

[Pioneer]

My 'hacksaw special' spring winder. Futzed around a couple days visiting hardware stores to find the right sized clamp. Works great- had the old spring out in two minutes. Guess I need to go ahead and make the rest of the parts to allow me to 'let down' the springs too. The new spring came tied off, and all I did was drop it in the barrel, line it up, and release it. My old spring is captured in the winder sleeve until I make those parts.

Now to get the clock back together and see what happens.

 

[Randy Beckett]

My 'hacksaw special' spring winder. Futzed around a couple days visiting hardware stores to find the right sized clamp. Works great- had the old spring out in two minutes. Guess I need to go ahead and make the rest of the parts to allow me to 'let down' the springs too. The new spring came tied off, and all I did was drop it in the barrel, line it up, and release it. My old spring is captured in the winder sleeve until I make those parts.

Now to get the clock back together and see what happens.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but the new spring comes with a preservative on it to keep it from rusting. It is some kind of oil, but doesn't lubricate the spring well enough for the spring to unwind smoothly. Bad news for any clock, but detrimental to a 400 day. It really needs to be cleaned off and replaced with a lubricant. But it should work ok, as is, long enough for you to get your clock running and tested, and your winder finished.

Nice work so far on the winder.

 

[Pioneer]

Ok, got it back together. After reading the post above about the spring preservative, I popped the cover back off of the barrel and put it back on the winder- I applied lube to the spring, and wound it up and down several times, and blew compressed air between the coils to distribute the lube. Not as good as doing it the proper way, but better than dry with preservative on it (I hope).

First thing I notice, is the pallets are not centered on the escapement wheel teeth axially. The anchor pallet seems to be too close to the back plate- like it needs to be shifted on its pivot shaft back a bit towards the front plate. The pallets are completely contacting the teeth, just not what I consider ideally. The escapement does operate.

Next, partially related to the above, the anchor pin inserts almost all the way to the 'crotch' of the fork. The old one rode about in the middle of the fork.

I attached pics, but its hard to get good focus/lighting on it. Thoughts?

 

[Randy Beckett]

Can't tell for sure, but it looks like your suspension bracket may be bent a little, leaning toward the front of the clock. If true, straightening it will give you a little more distance between the center pin and suspension spring.

By comparing your photos to some I have here, the center pin on mine is also pretty close to the back plate. Maybe not quite as close as yours though.

As long as the pin isn't actually ever bottoming out in the fork crotch, I think all this is probably close enough, especially if the bracket was bent and you can gain a little clearance there.

When moving the crutch pin by hand, is the amount of travel roughly the same distance each way, from the center(vertical) position?

 

[Pioneer]

Randy, the camera angle was awful in that pic I posted above- everything is pretty straight. It made that bracket and the fork itself look bent.

To answer your question, the crutch will move farther to the right than the left when the escapement is operated manually. The anchor pin is not bent either forwards/backwards or right/left. The pallet on the left (exit?) bottoming out on the escapement wheel between the teeth is what limits the movement of the crutch to the left.

Is there a way to press that anchor block farther onto the pivot shaft to make the pallets hit the escapement teeth more in the middle, or is it up against a shoulder on the pivot shaft? Looks to me that it needs to be aligned better. That's the sort of thing that will bother me.

 

[Tinker Dwight]

As long as for the worst position of end shake,
the pallets are on the escapement teeth, it will
be fine.
If not, you will need a proper staking tool to move
either the anchor or the escapement wheel.
It looks to be the worst position in the picture.
Tinker Dwight

 

[Randy Beckett]

To answer your question, the crutch will move farther to the right than the left when the escapement is operated manually. The anchor pin is not bent either forwards/backwards or right/left. The pallet on the left (exit?) bottoming out on the escapement wheel between the teeth is what limits the movement of the crutch to the left.

The problem with an unbalanced travel with the pin is, the farther the pin gets from vertical when it is running(leans), the wider the gap in the fork must be to keep the fork from binding on the pin. And a sloppy fit between the fork and pin, will make the clock flutter, when the escapement releases on the "high" side.

Most clocks will tolerate some unevenness of the pin travel. If the lock amount turns out to be good, and the pallet bits don't need any adjustment, the pin may have to be bent a little, if it gives you a problem. But if the bits need adjusting, that adjustment will also even the travel of the pin. So for now, wait on the pin. If the clock runs properly with it the way it is, no need to risk it.

As for moving the anchor, I agree with Tinkers opinion. You said this anchor and escape wheel came from a known running clock. The anchor and pin would have had this same alignment in it also.

 

[Tinker Dwight]

As Randy says, the swing of the lever should be balanced.
The safest way is to adjust the pallets on the anchor.
The most dangerous is to bend the pin.
Tinker Dwight

 

[Pioneer]

Ok, for the first time, this thing is running on its own. I eyeballed the fork height, set the beat and it's run now for a couple of hours. Gonna put the face parts back on and see if it continues to run. The escapement seems to be functioning ok- at least well enough to run.

I know there are cases where stuff is better off left alone- and the slight axial mismatch of the pallet bits to the escapement wheel may be one of them... But if you were going to try and correct that, how, exactly, would you do it? Is it a simple press fit? If I chucked the pivot shaft in a small drill press chuck, and used a sleeve on the underside against the brass anchor piece, should I not be able to press it a small amount? If you fellows feel very strongly about me leaving well enough alone, then I will, but I'm one of them funny kind of people that that sort of thing bothers. Doing that would also move the anchor pin a little farther from the crotch of the fork.

 

[Randy Beckett]

Ok, for the first time, this thing is running on its own. I eyeballed the fork height, set the beat and it's run now for a couple of hours. Gonna put the face parts back on and see if it continues to run. The escapement seems to be functioning ok- at least well enough to run.

I know there are cases where stuff is better off left alone- and the slight axial mismatch of the pallet bits to the escapement wheel may be one of them... But if you were going to try and correct that, how, exactly, would you do it? Is it a simple press fit? If I chucked the pivot shaft in a small drill press chuck, and used a sleeve on the underside against the brass anchor piece, should I not be able to press it a small amount? If you fellows feel very strongly about me leaving well enough alone, then I will, but I'm one of them funny kind of people that that sort of thing bothers. Doing that would also move the anchor pin a little farther from the crotch of the fork.

It's good to see it finally running on it's own.

You just have to weigh for yourself the risk vs potential reward. The risk is bending the arbor, one of the pivots, or breaking a pivot. The reward is it will look better, not likely function better.

If you want to try to move it, it is a tight friction fit. I would put the short end of the arbor in a hole, just barely larger, in a staking block, with the anchor set against the block. Then place a hollow stake over the pivot of the long end of the arbor, with a hole in it the size of the pivot, so the arbor shoulder will stop the stake. Hold the stake perfectly straight, and in line with the arbor, and drive the arbor until the anchor slips. Moving the escape wheel instead, is the same.

Now the diagram I posted in post #7 should be useful to you for comparison.

 

[Tinker Dwight]

As long as it doesn't go over the edge, leave it alone.
Tinker Dwight

 

[Pioneer]

It continues to run with the face & hands on. The anchor pin moves quite far to the right, but not much to the left. If I adjust the top suspension adjustment back that direction, the escapement ceases to function. It is running like this, but what does it need to be 'right'?

https://youtu.be/Tszq1u03wa8

 

[Tinker Dwight]

You have two choices.
You can either bend the anchor lever and take a chance on breaking it
or you can move both pallets the same amount and risk having to
spend time getting them set right, again.
Pick your poison!
Tinker Dwight

 

[Randy Beckett]

The video is enough out of focus on my computer to not see the detail of the escapement that I would like, but what I can see looks pretty good. Looks like good overswing and good overall rotation. The unevenness of the center pin travel appears not bad enough to be causing serious problems. The suspension adjuster is just for setting the beat and will do nothing to remedy the unevenness of the center pin travel. adjust the beat so that the overswing of the pendulum is exactly the same amount on each side, after the tick or tock, and I think you may be good to go.

Good job. Someone else may see it differently, as my computer equipment doesn't like the video very much.


Edit - Looks like Tinker may have seen something.

 

[Tinker Dwight]

I see relatively even drops so his depth is good.
The over swing looks a little unbalanced ( I have a 22
inch screen at work I can blow it up to ).
If he wants to make it straight, the two things I suggest
are the only ways.
If he can adjust with good over swing, it might be best to
just leave it.
Tinker Dwight

 

[KurtinSA]

I'm certainly no one to offer much support as I'm having my own problems which seems to have gotten the better of me. :cyclops: Anyway, I was a little freaked with I first looked at the video, thinking that things were backwards. It's definitely moving in reverse to all the clocks I've seen, but I guess things are set up right with the locks, impulse surface, etc.

But what about the pallets? It seems to me that the left pallet is sticking out quite a bit more than the right one. IIRC that will cause the anchor pin to be biased to the right.

Kurt

 

[Randy Beckett]

I'm certainly no one to offer much support as I'm having my own problems which seems to have gotten the better of me. :cyclops: Anyway, I was a little freaked with I first looked at the video, thinking that things were backwards. It's definitely moving in reverse to all the clocks I've seen, but I guess things are set up right with the locks, impulse surface, etc.

But what about the pallets? It seems to me that the left pallet is sticking out quite a bit more than the right one. IIRC that will cause the anchor pin to be biased to the right.

Kurt

You are correct, and that was what Tinker was referring to in Post#88. I'm sure he meant to say "move both pallets equal amounts, in opposite directions". This would only change the pin travel, but would not change the lock amount, and not change the interaction between the anchor and escape wheel, which appears good.

 

[KurtinSA]

OK, I see that now after rereading Tinker's post. Thanks...

Kurt

 

[Pioneer]

Thanks guys, I did notice that the pallet bits on one side were sticking down further, just didn't know if that was normal or not. I may try some very very small adjustments to the bits and see if I can even it out some. I'm totally stoked that it runs now! Thanks a bunch for the help. I will update on the progress.

 

[Pioneer]

She's coming along nicely! As soon as I'm satisfied all is well mechanically, I'm going to take it all down for a serious polishing.

 

[Pioneer]

Starting attempting to regulate. I'm losing an hour+ every 24 hrs. I just set the adjustment all the way to 'fast' in an attempt to see if I'm within adjustment range.

 

[KurtinSA]

If I remember correctly, the total range of adjustment should be 4 minutes per hour. So 60 minutes every 24 hours was between 2 and 3 minutes per hour.

The way I've been doing my clocks is to make an observation after 24 hours and then again at 48 hours. At that point, I make a decision on how much to adjust. I'm making notes and keep a log of the times and my adjustments. I always make the observations at 45 minutes after the hour at the same time each day.

 

[Randy Beckett]

Starting attempting to regulate. I'm losing an hour+ every 24 hrs. I just set the adjustment all the way to 'fast' in an attempt to see if I'm within adjustment range.

Your clock beats at exactly 12 beats per minute, when properly timed. This is 5 complete back and forth rotations. Starting at the instant the pendulum stops to change direction, you can use a stopwatch to "rough in" the rate adjustment by timing these five rotations, as 1 second per minute equals 1 minute per hour.

 

[Pioneer]

Good to know Randy, I'll time the rotations and see where I'm at. Thanks.

 

[Randy Beckett]

Your clock beats at exactly 12 beats per minute, when properly timed..

Duh...........Timed out before I realized my mistake. Should have read "Your clock beats at exactly 10 beats per minute, when properly timed."