Kundo anniv. 9" won't run

[Pioneer]

I recently inherited a Kundo 9" anniversary clock that belonged to my parents. I never remember seeing it operating- it sat in my parents living room on a shelf when I was a child. My mothers sister remembers it and said my parents could "never get it to work". I want to get it operating as I remember it fondly from my childhood.

I have been reading the forum and researching these anniversary clocks. I am not a 'clock guy'. I do own and maintain a grandfather clock with an Urgos movement- and have learned how to operate, clean, and oil it. I am mechanically capable of doing whatever needs to be done, with guidance. I first tried to operate this anniversary clock as I found it. It winds fine, but following the suggestions on this site on getting it going, it would not sustain operation. Suspension system seems in reasonable condition- no kinks, everything is aligned well. Upon careful examination, the escapement aknowledgeable ng up' when it gets to a certain part of the rotation.

I decided a good cleaning was in order. I made a tool to let the mainspring down safely, and disassembled the movement. I cleaned and inspected all the pivots. Everything looks in good condition. I did not attempt to disassemble and clean the mainspring at this point, due to not having a winder, or being familiar with dealing with a mainspring. The winding action seems smooth, and the spring seems plenty strong, to my inexperieced hand. I inspected the escapement parts with a magnifier, I can see no damage, or anything unusual. I reassembled the movement, oiled all the pivots with triflow teflon lubricant applied with a toothpick. I read up on adjusting the beat, and have fiddled with it considerably. It still will not sustain running. I have raised & lowered the fork, checked the fork clearance to the anchor rod, to no avail.

I am not very experienced with escapements and their operation, but it appears to not have a 'clean' escapement action- like its dragging or scraping on part of the action. I have adjusted beat until I have a reasonable overrun, and the ticks are occurring pretty evenly. It just seems to not have enough power to keep running.

I have since read that cleaning & oiling the mainspring should be the first thing done with one of these clocks. I will build a spring winder and attempt to carry that out. However, it just seems to me it ought to run for a bit, even if the spring is gunked up. My aunts' comment that my parents could never get it to run tells me something is hinky with it- as my dad was an engineer and a very capable and knowledgeable man.

What should I be focusing on at this point? The mainspring? Logic tells me to rule that out, but if anyone has something I can try while researching how to handle that mainspring, I would appreciate it.

 

[Randy Beckett]

The escapement action should be very smooth. The escape wheel teeth should slide smoothly over the pallet. Perhaps all those years of the clock sitting idle has caused a slight amount of oxidation to form on the pallet bits, and they need to be gently polished.

 

[macaw]

I wouldn't worry about the main spring at this point. If it looks like something is rubbing somewhere, look carefully at the pendulum for anywhere it could be touching something. Also, you might want to let the main spring down again, take out the pallet, add a very little bit of tension to the main spring just enough to see that all the gears move smoothly to rule out any damaged gears.

 

[Randy Beckett]

If it looks like something is rubbing somewhere.

Also be sure to check how the center shaft of the pendulum fits inside the cup on the base. This shaft can become bent so that it touches and drags on the side of the cup at some point in it's rotation, and the bottom of the shaft cannot touch the bottom of the cup, in the case of the suspension being a hair too long or the support legs being slightly bent back.

 

[Pioneer]

Thanks, I will remove the pallet and spin the gear train to check. The pendulum or suspension wire is definitely not touching anything. However, the pendulum does not spin perfectly true in the cup. The very bottom of the pendulum that extends into the cup wobbles by a perceptible amount- maybe 1/32" to 1/16". I can easily adjust to the bottom base leveling screws to center the pendulum in the cup.
Is there no way to adjust the escapement on the 9" clocks?

 

[macaw]

Be sure the suspension spring is centered in the top & bottom blocks. That might account for the wobble. Don't try any adjustments to the escapement other than adjusting the fork height & the beat. I don't believe the Kundo mini's have an adjustable excentric, but if it does, don't touch it.

 

[Randy Beckett]

Is there no way to adjust the escapement on the 9" clocks?

It is most likely that the escapement is still adjusted as it came from the factory, and needs no adjustment. There is no factory anchor height adjustment on the Kundo, but the pallet bits are adjustable on the anchor. DO NOT loosen the pallet bits on the anchor and attempt to adjust without verification that the adjustment is faulty, and complete and thorough knowledge of a deadbeat escapement and how it works.

If the clock has been in your family since new and has NEVER ran, there is a small outside possibility of a factory flaw. But if it ran, even for a short time, it is probably basically OK, but suffering from a issue inflicted on it by someone.

This is a diagram showing the proper pendulum cycle of a clock like yours, with a properly adjusted escapement and fork height. You can check it against yours and should be able to tell if anything is amiss.

 

[shutterbug]

If you could post a video of it running (post on Youtube and link here) it would help. Concentrate on the pallets and EW areas, but far enough away that we can see the pendulum action.

 

[harold bain]

I have been reading the forum and researching these anniversary clocks. I am not a 'clock guy'. I do own and maintain a grandfather clock with an Urgos movement- and have learned how to operate, clean, and oil it. I am mechanically capable of doing whatever needs to be done, with guidance. I first tried to operate this anniversary clock as I found it. It winds fine, but following the suggestions on this site on getting it going, it would not sustain operation. Suspension system seems in reasonable condition- no kinks, everything is aligned well. Upon careful examination, the escapement aknowledgeable ng up' when it gets to a certain part of the rotation.

You say "it winds fine", which tells me it must have run at one time in order for it to have needed any winding.

 

[Pioneer]

It did have a pretty good wind on it when I first started tinkering with it. When I say it winds fine, I just mean it lets down, and winds back up with no irregularities- spring doesn't seem broken or sticking.

The pendulum center shaft was out just a bit- I chucked it up in the hobby lathe and checked it with an indicator- just light finger pressure was all that was needed to set it true. I don't think that would be enough to keep the clock from running.

I just let the spring back down pulled the pallet out and tested- the gear train runs freely with just a few clicks of winding. I put the face and hands back on it and tried again, the hands move appropriately with the gear train with the pallet out. I went ahead and separated the back plate to better inspect the escapement wheel. I have attempted to attach a pic of the escapement mechanism. It is not adjustable in any way, apparently. It also does not look like other kundo escapement pics I see online. Clock is definitely a Kundo though. Has Klingingen & Obergfell, (0) jewels, unadjusted made in West Germany on back plate.

I need to find a clock parts reference and bone-up on the terminology. I do not know the correct names for all these parts. I will look into doing a video once I reassemble it. I have never posted anything to YouTube before.

 

[Pioneer]

Pics- had to figure out how to attach. This clock is possibly quite old.

 

[Pioneer]

I see pics online of the fork attached to the suspension wire with the forks oriented either up or down. Mine has the forks up. Is there a definite correct way for the fork to be oriented? I have slid the fork up and down on the suspension spring and tried running it- didn't seem to help it in any way.

 

[shutterbug]

Not too old, I'm afraid. It appears to be perhaps #1379 plate, dating from the early 1950's. A close-up of the back plate would help verify that.

 

[KurtinSA]

I see pics online of the fork attached to the suspension wire with the forks oriented either up or down. Mine has the forks up. Is there a definite correct way for the fork to be oriented? I have slid the fork up and down on the suspension spring and tried running it- didn't seem to help it in any way.

I asked the same thing...this should provide some guidance on what to try.

https://mb.nawcc.org/showthread.php?124505-Clock-Continues-to-Stop&p=958999&viewfull=1#post958999

Kurt

 

[Pioneer]

Early 50's would be about right. (That IS old to me, I was born in 68') My father was stationed in Germany in 53'-55' in the AF. My aunt was pretty sure he actually brought the clock back with him as a gift for my mother. At any rate, its a family heirloom, and I want to repair it. If I can get it functioning, then I will do a complete teardown and polishing on it. It is tarnished badly. The base is not in great shape, but the metal parts just need a good polishing and should clean up well. There is no corrosion damage or anything like that on it anywhere. I love working with these movements. They seem to be built well. I will report back after I have reassembled it.

 

[Tinker Dwight]

I see it has what are called pin pallets. This is
a cheaper type of escapement that it more sensitive
to wear of the escapement wheel.
Often the sharpness of the knee between the
lock and the impulse surface gets rounded.
Although, I'm not recommending you do any adjustements
without us seeing a video, the pallet height does have a
form of adjustment.
You'll notice that the bushing is on an peninsula. Fine
tuning is done by tiny bends to the peninsula. It should
not be bent, looking for the sweat spot as it should only
be bent with intent to correct a specific problem and then
only enough to correct that particular problem.
One should have the proper tools as well that include a
dial gauge to measure deflection and some controlled
way to force the peninsula.
A video will help a lot. Include one with the swing enough
to show the pallets escaping naturally and also one
that you turn the pendulum by hand to get it to escape.
Tinker Dwight

 

[Randy Beckett]

Pics- had to figure out how to attach. This clock is possibly quite old.

Pin pallet escapement? That's a new one on me in a Kundo. You might try polishing the side of the pins that contacts the wheel with a very fine strip of Emory cloth.

 

[Pioneer]

I have it back together. It just does not seem to matter how I adjust the fork height or the beat, it just isn't developing any impulse to the pendulum. When it slows down from me starting the pendulum, it just dies. I suspect for whatever reason the mainspring is that weak.
I will attempt to make a video. I will post back if I am successful. It may take some time.

 

[Pioneer]

Looking at the pallet pins with a magnifier, they appear to have a nice polish on them as-is. I doubt I could improve them. These parts are TINY. Of course to some of the watch guys they probably seem huge. I did not see pictures on the net of kundos with this set up. They may have moved away from it for a reason. Remember, this clock was 'said' by my aunt to have never worked. (My aunt lived with my parents for some time when she was younger) My mother passed away last year at 84 years old. I never thought to ask about the old clock while she was still living- I'm sure she could have told its history.

 

[Tinker Dwight]

Pin pallet escapement? That's a new one on me in a Kundo. You might try polishing the side of the pins that contacts the wheel with a very fine strip of Emory cloth.

Maybe John H. will have something to say about them. I'd not
seen them in a 400 day but I don't have anywhere near the
the depth of seeing either you or John has seen.
The lever looks a little thick as well.
Is there clearance between the fork and the lever?
Tinker Dwight

 

[Pioneer]

Getting rid of all background noise, I can hear that the ticks in both directions have a dual component to them. Like tic-tick.... Then the other direction the same thing. I can see the pallet pins dragging over the escapement teeth. The ticks are almost inaudible.

 

[KurtinSA]

The repair guide (pg 42) says that the pin pallet was introduced by Kundo around 1954 in its miniature 400-day clock line. It further says that it created unexpected problems so they converted to the standard Graham escapement. It seems that other makers continued to offer the pin pallet clocks - Kern, Schatz, Koma, Haller, and Hisshindo - in their miniature and midget movements.

From Joe Rabusha's book, he wrote that the pin pallet was used in miniature clocks mostly before WWI.

 

[Tinker Dwight]

Getting rid of all background noise, I can hear that the ticks in both directions have a dual component to them. Like tic-tick.... Then the other direction the same thing. I can see the pallet pins dragging over the escapement teeth. The ticks are almost inaudible.

Two tic noises are not that uncommon. One as the pin goes over
the knee from the lock face to the impulse face.
The other when the pin drops off the impulse
onto the next tooth.
How far it drops onto the locks is important.
Also, clearance for the fork and lever.
Tinker Dwight

 

[Pioneer]

Wonder if the later style escapement wheel and updated pallet assembly would interchange? (assuming I cannot get this eventually sorted). I think before I make any changes it would be wise to either service the old one, or put a new mainspring in- just to rule out an inordinately weak spring. I'm just not seeing any indication this thing is even trying to run as-is.

The fork clearance was a bit excessive- I closed it down until I could slip a piece of paper between the anchor pin and fork tine.

 

[Tinker Dwight]

A better test is that is still just clears at the ends of the swing.
Tinker Dwight

 

[Randy Beckett]

Maybe John H. will have something to say about them. I'd not
seen them in a 400 day but I don't have anywhere near the
the depth of seeing either you or John has seen.
The lever looks a little thick as well.
Is there clearance between the fork and the lever?
Tinker Dwight

I just never ran across one in a Kundo or noticed their mention in the repair guide. For all I know, they may be commonplace. Live and learn.

 

[shutterbug]

A 400 day clock will run with a very badly set spring for months on a full wind. I think you can rule the main spring out as being the problem.

 

[AndyDWA]

It sounds like this one needs the sort of detailed instructions Tinker and Randy have given me in the past in order to ascertain if escapement action is correct (pushing the anchor and watching where impulse happens, plus watching the pendulum and noting how close to centre of rotation escape happens). I could probably find their instructions and paste here but it would be better coming from people who know what they're talking about

 

[Pioneer]

I adjusted and studied it some more. If I'm correct, the pallet pin drops down onto the side of the EW tooth, then slips up the tooth and when it gets to the ramped part of the tooth that is what 'pushes' the pin causing the anchor to shift and transmit force to the fork which twists the suspension spring and causes the pendulum to accelerate. This impulse should happen around the zero crossing or just before. All this is happening, seemingly at the right time, its just a very short event, and not enough to keep the pendulum going- no matter what I do with fork height or beat adjustment. It won't even keep going with the face parts removed. I'm trying to get a meaningful video, but I'm working with a smartphone, and it is not giving me good results.

 

[John Hubby]

The repair guide (pg 42) says that the pin pallet was introduced by Kundo around 1954 in its miniature 400-day clock line. It further says that it created unexpected problems so they converted to the standard Graham escapement. It seems that other makers continued to offer the pin pallet clocks - Kern, Schatz, Koma, Haller, and Hisshindo - in their miniature and midget movements.

From Joe Rabusha's book, he wrote that the pin pallet was used in miniature clocks mostly before WWI.

Kurt, Joe should have been more specific when he discussed the early pin pallet movements. There are three movements/makers who used pin pallet escapements for miniature movements in the pre- and post-WWI time frame.

* First was Kienzle for their midget size 400-Day Plate 1175, introduced in 1912. About 2,200 of these were made, likely within a six-month period.

* Next was Franz Vosseler's lunar (30-day) miniatures, mostly in Louvre style cases. See Plate 1145 for example. Production started in 1912 and continued to 1926, with the large majority of these clocks made AFTER WWI. Only the movements with a DRGM stamp were made before WWI, if that isn't present they were made after the war.

* Third was JUF's version of the lunar 30-Day miniatures, again with most designs being Louvre style cases. See Plate 1257, which was actually made between 1921 when the trademark circle "Jahresuhren-Fabrik G.m.b.H. Germany" was registered, and 1923. These were patented in January 1914 (both the movement design and the 2-Ball pendulum) and produced from 1914 through 1928. Like Vosseler, if the movement has a DRGM stamp it was made between 1914 and the end of 1916, if not they were made after the war.

Pin pallet escapements "went away" by 1932, but were brought back after WWII in miniature and midget movements made from 1951 and later. As already commented these were very successfully made by the companies you mentioned, but Kundo had problems and went back to Graham escapements. The reason for the problems is that the pallet lock and drop isn't adjustable without bending the peninsula that has already been discussed. The reason the other makers didn't have a problem is they put the pallet arbor pivot in the suspension bracket, allowing lock and drop to be easily adjusted by just shifting the bracket right to left or up and down as needed.

I suspect the problem here is that the lock is too deep, so the only adjustment possible is to raise the peninsula by slightly bending it upward as described by Tinker. I think that should work, but if not it may be possible to exchange the escape wheel and pallet arbor for a Graham version, which would allow both lock and drop to be adjusted. What would be needed here is to find these parts from a movement with the exact back plate layout. I recommend you work with Chris Nimon at Horolovar to see if these parts can be obtained should this be necessary.

 

[Tinker Dwight]

On a 400 day clock, the fork and the depth of the pallets
interact. This is because of the spring, that causes the
pallets to snap back a little when dropped off the impulse
face.
The tooth on the escapement wheel has two surfaces. The
leading edge is called the lock and the ramped tops are
the impulse.
400 day clocks are right on the edge of the power required
to make them run. This means the escapement needs to be
at its best.
When at its best, you have both minimal lock ( where it lands
right after it drops ) and best impulse. Just raising and lowering the
fork is what I call, hunting for the sweat spot. It usually is
not too successful. It is more important to be adjusting for optimal
operation.
Generally, if just adjusting the forks, you want to adjust them to
the lowest level that the escapement doesn't flutter.
This assumes that the pallets are right, and it gives the best duration
of impulse and the minimum lock.
If you are able to adjust the fork all the way down without it fluttering,
it would tend to indicate two possible things.
1. As John suggest, the lock is too deep and the pallets need to be adjusted
up a little.
2. A general lack of power, in the gear train someplace.
The higher the fork can be when it flutters means more energy is imparted
to the pendulum and less is wasted on having the pallets snap back.
If the pallets create too little lock, there will be no position that the fork
can be set to that doesn't flutter.
Don't just hunt for the sweat spot. That is the way a hack would do it.
Adjust it for optimum running.
Tinker Dwight

 

[Pioneer]

I did as one post on the message board said and removed the suspension assembly and moved the anchor top pin manually with a small piece of BBQ skewer. I would slowly push it from lock to lock, looking for impulse when the pallet pins would slide onto the ramped portion of the EW. The impulse is happening as the pin is straight at the top, It just has almost no impulse- can barely move itself, let alone impart anything to the pendulum.

 

[Tinker Dwight]

I think your expectation of force may be a little on the high side.
The ratio from the winding is about 6000:1. It is a tiny amount of
thrust.
It only needs to be as much as is lost on a rotation of the bob.
Disconnect the fork and watch how long it rotates on its own.
I doubt your finger can tell the differences between 0 and the
amount needed.
I suspect the drop might be a little late. The impulse should
start a little before center. A perfect impulse would start
at the same angle as the drop ( not practical on a 400 day
clock ).
Tinker Dwight

 

[Randy Beckett]

Have you tried winding it one click at a time, without the anchor, to see how much wind it takes for the escape wheel to take off? If all is proper, it should start moving almost immediately, maybe one, two clicks at the most.

With it unwound check that you have good endplay with all the wheels. If the endplay is ok, hold the movement up, with the plates parallel to the ground and pick each wheel up against the top plate, then let it go. If there is no binding, each wheel will fall back down to the bottom plate from their own weight.

What you are describing does sound like a power problem. With the clock sitting level, the center pin should jump away as soon as the pin reaches the edge of the impulse portion of the EW tooth.

 

[Pioneer]

I did run the train Friday with the anchor removed. Maybe two or three clicks got it moving. I had the hands off at the time. I put them back on later, to watch them rotate. It would not go- took me a while to realize the hour hand needed to be pressed on far enough not to bind with the minute hand. Figured that out, and the hands turned fine. I had wound the mainspring up much more at that point though. I did not think to check end play on all the shafts. I did play around with the tightness of the plate screws, to see if loosening them would free anything up a bit- didn't seem to matter. I will check the endplay as mentioned above. I may pop the back cover off the mainspring barrel and visually inspect it- I did not mess with it at all before.

 

[Pioneer]

What is the minimum set up I'd need to handle removing and reinstalling that mainspring? I can build whatever is needed- I have materials & small home machine shop. I just am not familiar with the operation of dealing with these springs. I'm looking at you tube video of homemade spring winders, trying to decide what to implement. I will probably do more clocks in the future, as a hobby, but still don't want a large investment in a winder. I feel like I need to service that that spring and rule that out before messing with any adjustments to the escapement.

 

[Pioneer]

The more I understand, I do think the impulse is late, I had it what I felt was close to right at one point- I have marked the pendulum plate and set it at zero at rest. As the pendulum would come back across the zero I set, it appears the impulse is in fact after the zero crossing. What determines the 'timing' of the impulse?

 

[Randy Beckett]

What is the minimum set up I'd need to handle removing and reinstalling that mainspring? I can build whatever is needed- I have materials & small home machine shop. I just am not familiar with the operation of dealing with these springs. I'm looking at you tube video of homemade spring winders, trying to decide what to implement. I will probably do more clocks in the future, as a hobby, but still don't want a large investment in a winder. I feel like I need to service that that spring and rule that out before messing with any adjustments to the escapement.

You might want to remove the dial, hands, and motion works until you get the bare movement running, just to eliminate potential possibilities in those areas. You need to make sure there are no other possibilities for your problems, before concluding that the escapement is faulty.

The Joe Collins winder plans are in the Repair Hints and How-To forum. A basic and adaptable design that is hard to beat.

 

[Tinker Dwight]

The more I understand, I do think the impulse is late, I had it what I felt was close to right at one point- I have marked the pendulum plate and set it at zero at rest. As the pendulum would come back across the zero I set, it appears the impulse is in fact after the zero crossing. What determines the 'timing' of the impulse?

This goes back to what John said. The pallets may be too deep
into the escapement wheel.
Do remember, the fork height effects this as well. Moving the fork
down has basically the effect of moving the pallets up because of
the springs recoil, on drop.
Moving the pallets up does too things. It reduces the amount of lock
and also changes the drop ratio.
The outside drop gets larger and the inside gets smaller.
Drop is the distance the escapement wheel rotates when it slides
of the impulse face and stops on a lock face. Typically for a fixed
pallets, when the drops are balanced the locks will be balanced as well.
This is usually the design point.
Still, to make the clock run well, the lock depth needs to be minimal.
I personally feel it is OK to slightly unbalance the drops to get good
locks. Too much unbalance of drops will cause the back side of the
escapement teeth to hit the pallets.
Too much lock will reduce the amount of drive to the pendulum.
Tinker Dwight

 

[Pioneer]

What I mean above by 'almost had it right' is that for my given situation, I had it beating as close to evenly as it was going to. Looking at the movement from the rear through the viewing port the left hand side pallet pin is getting impulse from the EW late- like 30 degrees pendulum rotation after zero crossing. The right hand side pin is getting impulse very close to zero crossing. The only way the escapement will function at all with the pendulum moving is with the top suspension beat adjustment turned a bit away (looking from the top, the screw head being turned clockwise a bit) from the suspension blocks being perpendicular to the back plate. The suspension wire is not twisted- it is dead straight. Looks to me if everything was right, the adjustment should be very close to the suspension top block adjustment being dead perpendicular to the back plate.

 

[Pioneer]

Thanks for telling me what 'drop' is- I am struggling with the terminology relevant to these things. The concept of lock and drop is not something I am familiar with- I am picking up bits and pieces from reading. My mechanical mind can see what is happening as the pallet pin rides up on the impulse ramp and is pushed slightly, rotating the anchor pallet on its pivots, causing the top anchor pin to impart force on the fork assembly, which is a lever arm attached to the suspension wire, which applies torque on the vertical axis to accelerate the pendulum. The actual 'lock' and 'drop' concept at the EW is giving me some trouble understanding exactly what it is, and the relationships involved. I also intuitively know that bending the peninsula will not move the pivot bushing perfectly vertically, as one side of the peninsula is fixed- it will raise or lower the pivot bushing in an arc.

 

[Randy Beckett]

I think the reason you are seeing differences in the 2 sides is because the clock is not in beat. If it was, you would see each side at 15 degrees late, instead of 0 on one side and 30 on the other. Either way, looks like the lock may be excessive.

 

[Tinker Dwight]

What I mean above by 'almost had it right' is that for my given situation, I had it beating as close to evenly as it was going to. Looking at the movement from the rear through the viewing port the left hand side pallet pin is getting impulse from the EW late- like 30 degrees pendulum rotation after zero crossing. The right hand side pin is getting impulse very close to zero crossing. The only way the escapement will function at all with the pendulum moving is with the top suspension beat adjustment turned a bit away (looking from the top, the screw head being turned clockwise a bit) from the suspension blocks being perpendicular to the back plate. The suspension wire is not twisted- it is dead straight. Looks to me if everything was right, the adjustment should be very close to the suspension top block adjustment being dead perpendicular to the back plate.

This in it self is not a critical effect of adjusting the beat. It can be an indication of
a bent anchor lever, tight fork or slightly twisted fork.
The beat it self is a critical adjustment. Over swing balancing is critical.
The angle of the top block is not normally looked at.

 

[Tinker Dwight]

I think the reason you are seeing differences in the 2 sides is because the clock is not in beat. If it was, you would see each side at 15 degrees late, instead of 0 on one side and 30 on the other. Either way, looks like the lock may be excessive.

Agree with both statements.
Tinker Dwight

 

[Tinker Dwight]

Thanks for telling me what 'drop' is- I am struggling with the terminology relevant to these things. The concept of lock and drop is not something I am familiar with- I am picking up bits and pieces from reading. My mechanical mind can see what is happening as the pallet pin rides up on the impulse ramp and is pushed slightly, rotating the anchor pallet on its pivots, causing the top anchor pin to impart force on the fork assembly, which is a lever arm attached to the suspension wire, which applies torque on the vertical axis to accelerate the pendulum. The actual 'lock' and 'drop' concept at the EW is giving me some trouble understanding exactly what it is, and the relationships involved. I also intuitively know that bending the peninsula will not move the pivot bushing perfectly vertically, as one side of the peninsula is fixed- it will raise or lower the pivot bushing in an arc.

I have decided to always use the terms inside and out side drop as there is
less chance for confusion.
It is also easier to visualize how moving escapement closer or father apart effects
the drops.
Hold you left hand index and thumb in a V. This represents the angle of the escapement
wheel, where the pallets touch the escapement.
With your right hand use your index and little finger. Slide them up with the V between them.
You can see that as you go up, they eventually jam. The represents the inside drop getting
smaller. Now put them between the V. Now going up makes the drop wider.
On a dead beat or in this case pin pallet, moving the pallet closer or farther away has
the effect of trading inside for outside drop.
This doesn't work that way for a recoil escapement because of the angles of the pallets.
You will see the term entrance drop. The would be what I call inside drop or drop from
the entrance pallet to exit pallet. Outside drop is exit pallet drop.
I hope the finger modeling helps thinking about it.
The ark of the peninsula can usually be compensated by the beat adjustment and
shouldn't be an issue, unless the anchors lever is significantly bent.
If you should ever need to bend the lever, don't bend it at the base. These are
hardened some and are known to break there.
Tinker Dwight

 

[Pioneer]

Thanks for explaining that- it helps. I have noticed the hardness of these pins. They are made of good stuff. The anchor pin looks to be straight and at 90 degrees to the anchor plate in both directions- no bend at all on this one. The fork looks like it was stamped from a flat piece, then formed to shape. It looks straight and true to me.

I will look at some more beat adjustment videos again, and see if I'm grasping the right concepts. At one time, I did have both sides impulse happening late- both about the same.

 

[Pioneer]

I just emailed Horolovar inquiring if they know if the escapement styles can be swapped out and if they have parts.

 

[Pioneer]

I managed to get a couple test videos to you tube.
The clock was started for the videos by rotating the pendulum 1/2 turn and releasing. It gradually slows over about 10 mins and the escapement stops working.
https://youtu.be/AVuoR9X_86A
https://youtu.be/o3XJog7QVOE

 

[Tinker Dwight]

Beat is way off.
Tinker Dwight

 

[Tinker Dwight]

I count 4 one way and 5.5 the other.
Locks are a little too deep still.
Fix the beat first.
Tinker Dwight