Kitchen clock alarm, basket case

Discussion in 'Clock Repair' started by bkerr, May 27, 2012.

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  1. bkerr

    bkerr Registered User
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    Nov 29, 2007
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    I purchased a Sessions Home clock at the Cleveland show lat week as a basket case. I have the movement running and the case s done. I started to work on the alarm. The arm was broken off of the alarm so I set it up on the mill and made a new rod. I kept it long because I was unsure of the length, nothing to go by. So I silver brazed the rod in and re-assembled the movement. When I left the shop I began to think that maybe there should be two rods. One for the hammer and one for the lift? But the was only one rod on the movement. Was this a reproduction alarm or is the lift wire tied to the hammer? Here are some pics. If you have one of these clocks I would appreciate a picture to go by. There are some orginal holes and I am hoping that these are correct as well. Thanks in advance.

    IMG_1823 alarm.jpg IMG_1824 alam.jpg IMG_1825 alarm.jpg IMG_1826 alarm.jpg IMG_1827 alarm.jpg
     
  2. bangster

    bangster Moderator
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    Two. The hammer rod and the locking arm both sprout off the pallet arbor. When locked, the locking arm is raised and the pallets are jammed into the rattle wheel, preventing it from turning. When the lifting lever falls off the cam on the alarm disk, the locking arm is freed and the rattle wheel can work the pallets and the hammer.

    kitchen clock alarm.jpg
    Note that the lifting wire is just a hook through the eyelet on the locking arm. When released, the locking arm slides up & down on the hook, while the hammer is banging away on the bell.
     
  3. bkerr

    bkerr Registered User
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    Bang, from what I started with, there was only one rod.

    Do you think I shoud drill another hole for each rod? I know how it work but I cannot understand why there was only one rod positioned on the arbor?

    Also, does this look like a repro or orginal? It was rusted and I cleaned it up while I had it apart. Thanks
     
  4. Bill Stuntz

    Bill Stuntz Registered User
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    I'm a newbie, so please don't take this as gospel!!! I'm sure someone who knows will correct me if I'm wrong.

    In bangsters picture, it looks like the hammer shaft and locking arm are a single smoothly curved wire passing through the arbor. Maybe one end of yours was broken off? I doubt that you'd need to drill another hole, since it presumably worked with only the one hole before.
     
  5. shutterbug

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    yep - one arm connected directly to the 'verge'.
     
  6. bkerr

    bkerr Registered User
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    Okay, if I do it that way it goes through the verge? This was the placement of the one I replaced. Do you see what I am trying to sa?

    IMG_1824 alarm.jpg
     
  7. MuensterMann

    MuensterMann Registered User

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    Ah, similar to my clock - with photos in the nearby thread "Strike Timing Advice Needed". Attached here are two photos of the alarm, one with levers in normal position and the other when I lift the lever. This is to illustrate that the bell wire, lift wire and the verge are all connected to one assembly. I hope this helps.

    alarm down.jpg alarm up.jpg
     
  8. shutterbug

    shutterbug Moderator
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    Yeah, what you've done looks fine. Bend a loop on the end, be sure you leave it long enough. Hook it up and test it. Bend the arm a little as needed until it functions correctly.
     
  9. bangster

    bangster Moderator
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    Mine has two separate rods, drilled & attached to the pallet arbor on each side of the pallets.

    Since the rods and pallets are all part of one assembly, it would be POSSIBLE to get by with just a single rod, by bending it funny.
    Forget the locking arm. Instead of bending the hammer rod straight down toward the bell, bend it out sideways, curl an eyelet in it, then extend it down to the bell. Would work the same way.

    Yours looks original to me. The winding key shaped different from those you see in aftermarket units.
     
  10. shutterbug

    shutterbug Moderator
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    Ooops. I might have looked at it wrong. Seems what I was looking at is the bell strike arm. The OTHER one controls the on and off. Yours doesn't seem to have that one (yet).
     
  11. DianneB

    DianneB Registered User

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    That's the way it is done on my Ansonia - the hammer rod is bent in a loop and a link passes through the loop and up to a cam on the movement. When the cam drops at the appropriate hour, the hammer rod is free to move.
     
  12. bkerr

    bkerr Registered User
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    Yes, I think that is the answer I was looking for. It threw me when I started thinking, should just stop thinking!

    Thanks everyone
     
  13. bangster

    bangster Moderator
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    Here's how it might look with single lever (crude Photoshop image).
    kitchen clock alarm fix3.jpg
     
  14. Jim Hartog

    Jim Hartog Registered User
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    More photos of a single wire jigger. This one is supposedly a 1912 Ingraham. Apologies for the photo quality. This one is pretty dirty.

    Jim

    single wire jigger 001.jpg single wire jigger 002.jpg single wire jigger 003.jpg
     
  15. bkerr

    bkerr Registered User
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    Thanks for the pics guys! I have come to think that the alarm I have is not orginal to the clock. Looking at Jim's picture the rod is offset from the verge. Mine is right on the center of the verge. Not only that I only see two screw holes in the case for the alarm. I'll post some pics wen I am done with this one. Thanks again!
     
  16. shutterbug

    shutterbug Moderator
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    Yeah, you can still get them from most suppliers, so the chances of it being replaced at some point is pretty good.
     

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