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Kerosene

Salsagev

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Kerosene I use seem to start to leave a white powdery and ugly residue. No pictures now but it’s just like watermarks on your faucet but more deep. Any ideas? Am I using the correct Kerosene (Furnace type?) Thanks.
 

Mike Phelan

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If kerosene is what we call paraffin over here, it has no place in clocks! It takes a long while to dry, for one reason.
I've no idea what "furnace type" is. Googling seems to say that this stuff has some oil in it, so even worse in clocks :emoji_scream:
 

Steven Thornberry

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If kerosene is what we call paraffin over here, it has no place in clocks! It takes a long while to dry, for one reason.
I've no idea what "furnace type" is. Googling seems to say that this stuff has some oil in it, so even worse in clocks :emoji_scream:
There was the following discussion from earlier this year. The subject seems to come up every now and then.

Cleaning movement with kerosene | NAWCC Forums
 

Bkeepr

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I have used kerosene to clean, and it has benefits. Use K-1, which is most refined. Furnace type is usually K-2, which is less refined and often contains impurities and additives, which are what I believe is causing your white deposits.
 

wow

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Sals, I think you will be happier using naptha. I use it often as a pre-cleaning soak on all parts. It cuts oil and goop well. I follow with ultrasonic cleaning. Naptha also leaves a white film. The main reason I use it is to get rid of the nasty gunk. It keeps my ultrasonic solution from getting contaminated as often. I just buy camping fuel which is naptha (white gas). It is cheaper that way. Kerosene is too oily, in my opinion, for use on clocks.
 

Salsagev

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Sals, I think you will be happier using naptha. I use it often as a pre-cleaning soak on all parts. It cuts oil and goop well. I follow with ultrasonic cleaning. Naptha also leaves a white film. The main reason I use it is to get rid of the nasty gunk. It keeps my ultrasonic solution from getting contaminated as often. I just buy camping fuel which is naptha (white gas). It is cheaper that way. Kerosene is too oily, in my opinion, for use on clocks.
I see. Naptha sounds attractive but how dangerous and is it as stinky as Kerosene? Speaking of Goop, anybody thought of using goop on clocks (with pumice?)
 

wow

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I see. Naptha sounds attractive but how dangerous and is it as stinky as Kerosene? Speaking of Goop, anybody thought of using goop on clocks (with pumice?)
It’s not as dangerous as acetone or regular gasoline, but it is flammable. Used as camping fuel. It does not smell nearly as bad as kerosene.
 

Willie X

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Look up the flash points.

Or, just sprinkle about a half cup on some crumpled news papers in a metal pan and toss in a match. Outside, of course!

Then, think about which burn hospital you would be in, if you were actually using that material when it took fire.

Willie X
 
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roughbarked

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Look up the flash points.

Or, just sprinkle about a half cup on some crumpled news papers in a metal pan and toss in a match. Outside, of course!

Then, think about which burn hospital you would be in, if you were actually using that material when it took fire.

Willie X
When I was young and silly, though the only difference now is that I'm old, I was attempting to light the kitchen stove with kerosene. I tossed a match in and slammed the door shut. The next instant the door of the stove had left an impression on a cupboard door the other side of the kitchen, missing me by inches.
 
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Steven Thornberry

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I'm with Mark on this! What is "goop" - here it just means anything sticky :confused:
I know of Goop as a hand cleaner, kinda suspect for cleaning clock movements. There is also an adhesive called Goop. I wouldn't try that either.
 

shutterbug

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I have heard of people using the non-abrasive type Goop for clock cases with some good results. I don't think it has much application for cleaning movements though.
 

Salsagev

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If anybody has a suggestion for a one wash solutions, that would be great. I first don’t want to scrub all day and then there’s still junk within the gears. I thought of Goop because it does so well with hands and stubborn grease.
 

Salsagev

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I think there’s Gojo pumice cleaner and the Goop waterless cleaner. I always get them mixed up.
 

R. Croswell

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If anybody has a suggestion for a one wash solutions, that would be great. I first don’t want to scrub all day and then there’s still junk within the gears. I thought of Goop because it does so well with hands and stubborn grease.
Camping fuel is like gasoline, at room temperature produces flammable vapors that can accumulate and explode if there is a source ignition. Kerosene produces very little flammable vapor at room temperature but once ignited can produce a big fire that is hard to extinguish. Do NOT use camping fuel, gasoline, kerosene, K1, K2, #2 diesel, or any other flammable liquid in an ultrasonic cleaner. The heat and ultrasonic action can cause solvents that normally produce little vapor to vaporize and become hazardous.

Kerosene (and gasoline camping fuel etc.) is a petroleum solvent. It is a fairly good solvent for old oil and grease. It will not dissolve dust, dirt, ash, or any other inorganic trash. It is important to rinse in clean kerosene otherwise when the dirty solvent dries it will leave behind the same crud that was dissolved or suspended in solution during the cleaning.

The first step in tracking down the "white powder" is to put some of the clean kerosene that you are using on a glass plate and leave it alone until it dries. If you see the white residue then the problem is the kerosene that you are using. If not, then I suspect you are not rinsing well enough.

Kerosene is often mentioned for cleaning because it is much safer than the other more volatile petroleum solvents (acetone, gasoline, camp fuel, carb cleaner, etc.) and much less expensive than commercial clock cleaning solutions. However there other water based degreasing solvents such as Super Clean available at most automotive and hardware stores and Wal-Mart. These are just as good as kerosene, and nonflammable but they are usually caustic (don't get on skin or in eyes - use safety glasses) and some of them will darken brass if left to soak for any length of time. These are best used as a precleaner before using "real" clock cleaning solution such as Deox-007, followed by a thorough rinsing in clean (preferably distilled) water or clock rinse solution.

RC
 

shutterbug

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There have been a few contributors here that have mentioned Simple Green as a cleaner. They say it works well, but I have no experience with it.
 

Salsagev

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These are best used as a precleaner before using "real" clock cleaning solution such as Deox-007
See if possible, I would like to avoid multi-step cleaning processes as I don't think I have the capacity for a whole "cleaning station". I would like to scrub and rinse then be over with cleaning.
followed by a thorough rinsing in clean (preferably distilled) water or clock rinse solution.
Is the Deox rinse good?

Also, what type of brush is most efficient for stubborn pinion junk?

I personally think Deox is overpriced and cost so much in shipping that it could be redundant.
 

Willie X

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A regular ole flux brush, with the bristles cut to about 3/8", works OK. I once had several old typewriter cleaning brushes, they were very good. A non fancy toothbrush isn't bad but the black natural bristles seen to work better, IMO.

if you are cleaning steel a soft brass brush is hard to beat.

I'm talking about removing the hard, stuck on material. The stuff that's often left after using other cleaning methods.

The soft goop will dissolve and come off with a swish from the ole paint brush but that's usually just the starting point to clean. :)

Willie X
 

Salsagev

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Toothbrushes are fine for an occasion cleaning but I am finding I am having to peg each pinion and crevice of the piece over and over again.

A brass brush might work for me but how does it do on brass parts?

Just my theory is that you can’t be too gentle on some of the gunk - it won’t come off unless with force.
 

Willie X

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A brass brush will scratch brass.

Some recommend a light touch of a cutting broach to remove embedded material from pivot holes. I think that idea has merit but I haven't tried it.

Willie X
 

Salsagev

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I see. I maybe will try a flux brush. I am still thinking of Gojo pumice cleaner and a light brush since that does so well on hands. Just no hard aggressive pressure (which is the goal with any cleaner.)
 

Salsagev

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I’ll keep that in mind. Will just test it out on a dirty but tough part. The good thing with Gojo pumice cleaner is that it rinses out easily, unlike some high residue polishing compound or Brasso.
 

Thomas Sanguigni

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I would think, if you try the Gojo, you would need to rinse very well. Pumice, like other abrasives, needs to be totally removed. If any abrasive remnants remain, they will continue to act as intended.

In areas that remain untouched by cleaners, try using a bit of acetone. It will get the mess out. I don't use it if there is lacquer on the plates.
 

Salsagev

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Also one thing I’m confused about is if there is lacquer or not on plates.

I will try Gojo tomorrow.

Thanks for all the suggestions.
 

Fitzclan

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Sals, please do yourself a favor and stay away from anything containing pumice. It is insidious and will undoubtedly cause future problems.
The water based degreasers suggested by RC are inexpensive and will dissolve away gunk in a few minutes of soaking doing most of the work for you. They are much more aggressive than gojo or goop and much easier to rinse away. Just my 2 cents worth.
 
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Salsagev

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I will try “Super Clean” if it’s more cheaper than Deox. Kinda am shooting for a magic bullet here lol as cleaning is very time consuming.
 

steamer471

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Purple power is better than pumice! Several threads here for home made cleaning recipes. I agree pumice will cause you nothing but grief. The biggest draw backs to home made solutions I found was flash rusting. Be sure you rinse well and dry quickly. I eventually found out that the amount of time I spent trying to save money it was costing me money with these homebrews. Deox-7 is concentrate and does a great job. If I have a real grungy movement I'll use simple green, purple power or Zep concentrate as a pre wash and then run the through the Deox.
 

Salsagev

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Thanks for the suggestion. The biggest concern with making some concoction is that I am not sure where to get all those liquids and not sure where to store them. Purple Powers price is attractive.
 

shutterbug

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You can get brass brushes in either stiff or flexible. I don't worry much about scratching pinions while getting out crud from them. As long as you don't make grooves, they will still function just fine. Better than if you don't clean them well ;) I sometimes use a small round, pointed file to dig out crud from them too. I'm a "whatever is needed" kind of guy.
 
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wow

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Purple power is better than pumice! Several threads here for home made cleaning recipes. I agree pumice will cause you nothing but grief. The biggest draw backs to home made solutions I found was flash rusting. Be sure you rinse well and dry quickly. I eventually found out that the amount of time I spent trying to save money it was costing me money with these homebrews. Deox-7 is concentrate and does a great job. If I have a real grungy movement I'll use simple green, purple power or Zep concentrate as a pre wash and then run the through the Deox.
Steamer, I am trying my first Deox-007 solution in my US. The first movement I ran through it came out great. I use naptha as a presoak and brush away bad spots using naptha also. I mixed the Deox 7 to 1. Is that how you mix yours or use it straight as the directions on the bottle suggest?
 

Salsagev

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You can get brass brushes in either stiff or flexible. I don't worry much about scratching pinions while getting out crud from them. As long as you don't make grooves, they will still function just fine. Better than if you don't clean them well ;) I sometimes use a small round, pointed file to dig out crud from them too. I'm a "whatever is needed" kind of guy.
I like that. Last time, I used a sharp pair of tweezers to dig out the crud. The plates usually are not a cleaning issue for me, and the mainspings I clean entirely with Slicklube.
 

steamer471

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Steamer, I am trying my first Deox-007 solution in my US. The first movement I ran through it came out great. I use naptha as a presoak and brush away bad spots using naptha also. I mixed the Deox 7 to 1. Is that how you mix yours or use it straight as the directions on the bottle suggest?
Yes I mix mine 7 to 1. The directions on my bottle instruct me to do so. Are you sure you bought the concentrate?
20210921_162131.jpg
 

Salsagev

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Hey guys,

I am going to buy the Purple Power later today but curiosity got to me. I had to use the Goop Pumice cleaner on a cheap Jauch movement. It cleaned surprisingly well but only left the solid solid crud left on the sharp outer part of bushings. With a toothbrush, the clock should not be scratched. Also, I was using the smaller pumice pieces than in some clocks and I rinsed twice. The clock parts show that they do not have pumice embedded as I operated the smaller and rotating pieces such as the cannon tube and the center wheel without grinding.
 

wow

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That line #4 could potentially increase their sales by a factor of 9X. Ha, Willie X
Yep. I’m treating it as a mistake. I have now used the 7 to 1 mixture on two movements in the US and had good results. I don’t think it is any better than my home brew but I’ll keep using it and compare.
 

steamer471

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I never paid attention to that line:whistle: . The problem I had with home brews were flash rusting and lantern pinions not coming out clean for the most part. The environment here is pretty humid but still the Deox seemed to alleviate that problem. It also brightens the plates better.
 

Salsagev

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Would anybody mind trying pumice cleaner on a cheaper trundle clock? Would really be interested on someone else’s take on it. That stuff cleaned my hands when cleaning the stuff. Cleaning my parts (excluding mainspring which was cleaned separately) took no more than 15 mins.
 

wow

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Would anybody mind trying pumice cleaner on a cheaper trundle clock? Would really be interested on someone else’s take on it. That stuff cleaned my hands when cleaning the stuff. Cleaning my parts (excluding mainspring which was cleaned separately) took no more than 15 mins.
Sals, it will probably work fine, but my concern would be the microscopic pieces of pumice that get embedded in the metal. If you thoroughly wash every part with soapy water brushing each tight spot as well as you can, it may be safe.
 

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