Junghans B10 140, multiple questions

[Jess19721]

Hi all,

There has been another recent thread on the same movement but it has gotten a bit long, if this should be merged my apologies.

I'm very new so please forgive a bunch of basic questions incoming as I try to get this clock going again. This clock comes from a clock makers shop that passed away. It was picked up by a friend who nicely is letting me try to get it working again. The broken spring was still inside the chime barrel but it appears to have rebushed in several locations and was spotless and not oiled, so perhaps he had just done that work meaning to get to the spring and the broken trundle later. I piggy backed on Ralph's thread with that trundle issue and really appreciated everyone's help getting that sorted including Ralph for starting the thread

Stupidly the first time I took it apart I moved the pallet depth and spent a couple hours trying to find the correct placement again. I was pulling my hair out and cursing myself. It kept stopping all night but this morning I was thinking it may just be out of beat and decided to stop messing with the depth. Instead I bent the crutch slightly and it seems better. I have a video of the pallet and escape wheel, if anyone has the time can you please have a look and let me know if it looks as it should?

Also is there a correct method for bending the crutch? The wire kind seems straightforward, but I'm terrified of damaging this flat metal crutch (is there a different term?). I think it still needs a bit more bend, the beat seems to go back to out of beat after a little time passes. I uploaded the second video so you can hear the difference about 20 minutes from the first.

My first time uploading a video, hope I did it right.

Thank you so much for reading!

--Jessica

 

[wow]

Your second video shows it “out of beat” before and “in beat” after your adjustment.

 

[Jess19721]

Your second video shows it “out of beat” before and “in beat” after your adjustment.

Thank you, it seems to drift back out after a time, perhaps I need to bend a bit more.

 

[Jess19721]

I am also wondering about adjusting the chime lock plate if anyone has any advice? The article The Junghans “”Arch-Top” Movement indicates you don't have to split the plates to adjust it. I applied pretty strong finger pressure but it doesn't have any detectable play. Also does the quarter hour notch simply need to line up with the little cam one arbor up (and you just adjust the chime barrel from there to match up with which quarter hour it lands in)? I uploaded another video showing what I mean.

 

[eemoore]

Thank you, it seems to drift back out after a time, perhaps I need to bend a bit more.

i think you are trying to set the beat incorrectly by Bending the pendulum leader .and crutch. This movement does not have a bendable crutch wire,The crutch is friction fitted to the arbor and the crutch has to be rotated a little , left or right by holding the anchor and applying pressure to the crutch, left or right . You should not bend the pendulum leader. On this forum if you search how to set the beat you can find a better explanation. Go to Encyclopedia under the Forum heading and then to clock repair. Look for setting the beat. it may take a little time to load, but look at the section that shows how to adjust the beat with a friction fitted crutch. Hope this helps.

 

[Jess19721]

i think you are trying to set the beat incorrectly by Bending the pendulum leader .and crutch. This movement does not have a bendable crutch wire,The crutch is friction fitted to the arbor and the crutch has to be rotated a little , left or right by holding the anchor and applying pressure to the crutch, left or right . You should not bend the pendulum leader. On this forum if you search how to set the beat you can find a better explanation. Go to Encyclopedia under the Forum heading and then to clock repair. Look for setting the beat. it may take a little time to load, but look at the section that shows how to adjust the beat with a friction fitted crutch. Hope this helps.

Thank you, I didn't realize it was friction fitted at all. I have an Enfield that has a crutch with a little tab-like device tthat can be bent this way or that on the back of the pallet arbor. This one has no such tab-like appendage which was why I was puzzled about how one sets a mantle clock with this kind of leader in beat. I will have to look more closely.

 

[wow]

Jessica,
The adjustment you did in your video is the proper way to do it. You were not bending the crutch tail but putting pressure on the arbor clutch which is on the pallet arbor (as Eemoore said). I think you have the pallet depth set just right also.
So what are you trying to fix? Is the chime working? Is it running without stopping? Is it striking?
This is one of the more complicated movements we work on as far as chime and strike set-up is concerned. Conover’s chime repair book is the best reference out there for this movement. It covers it in detail.

 

[tracerjack]

I could very well be wrong, but I would be hesitant to try and adjust a chime selection locking plate that does not have a set screw to allow for that. If yours doesn’t appear to move on the arbor, I would assume adjustments are going to need splitting the plates for realignment of wheels. Personally, although I dread doing so, having to let down all the mainsprings, undo clips or wires that prevent splitting, etc, I always end up gaining immeasurably in knowledge.

 

[Jess19721]

Hi there many thanks for clarifying. The maintenance lever and count wheel drop lever are not lined up with the slots in the maintenance cam and chime plate detents and it just runs. The article The Junghans “”Arch-Top” Movement indicates you dont have to split the plates to adjust that, but the strike plate doesn't give an indication of wanting to move with strong finger pressure attempts. I didn't know if you need a tool for it, or if I just need to bite the bullet and open the plates and try to mesh them that way.

This clock is featured in Conover's book on chime repair, but only briefly at the end of the Junghan's chapter. It the the alternate "cheaper" movement (has no auto correct) he described at the end of the chapter, with no mention of setting up strike and chime. I wonder if all I need to do is just marry up the levers with the decent and it will strike without further adjustment needed on the strike side.

 

[Jess19721]

I could very well be wrong, but I would be hesitant to try and adjust a chime selection locking plate that does not have a set screw to allow for that. If yours doesn’t appear to move on the arbor, I would assume adjustments are going to need splitting the plates for realignment of wheels. Personally, although I dread doing so, having to let down all the mainsprings, undo clips or wires that prevent splitting, etc, I always end up gaining immeasurably in knowledge.

Yes I agree with the sigh at having to split it for the third time but also SO agree with the learning part at having to do it, especially with a greenie like me! My first I had apart was a ST 120, the next an Enfield Westminster and I split the plates on that one probably 15 times. My husband called that clock (purchased as running but severely damaged in shipping) my obsession, and I was obsessed until I was able to bend her back enough to go again! This one makes me more nervous because i really hope to get her going for a friend. Thanks again for the advice!

 

[tracerjack]

While the article says the plate can be moved on the arbor, I’m not convinced that’s correct. Despite my admittedly limited experience with internal locking plates, I feel I would have to see it to believe it. As I have written before, all chimers work on the same principles. You just have to identify how a particular movement is accomplishing those principles. For example, In order for the chime train to lock, levers for the stop and end of chime sequence have to fall at the same time. Or a pinned wheel must hit a detent at the same time. Once we figure out how your movement is supposed to work, you will be able to get this one going.

 

[tracerjack]

Does your movement have chime correction?

 

[Jess19721]

While the article says the plate can be moved on the arbor, I’m not convinced that’s correct. Despite my admittedly limited experience with internal locking plates, I feel I would have to see it to believe it. As I have written before, all chimers work on the same principles. You just have to identify how a particular movement is accomplishing those principles. For example, In order for the chime train to lock, levers for the stop and end of chime sequence have to fall at the same time. Or a pinned wheel must hit a detent at the same time. Once we figure out how your movement is supposed to work, you will be able to get this one going.

By the way the levers for the locking plate and maintenance cam are fixed together, like a sideways "V", so both move in unison. That at least is a blessing. If I get the cams both lines up to receive the detents. in theory I think it should work. We shall see! Alas I have to go to work and will have clock on my mind all week until I have time to fuss with it yet again!

 

[Jess19721]

Does your movement have chime correction?

No, this one does not, it is mentioned by Conover as being the "cheaper" version of the first movement described in the Junghans chapter.

 

[tracerjack]

Yes, with a locked vee shape, both levers must fall into their respective slots at the same time. And in answer to you question in post #4, the chime drum is adjusted last. Once the movement is working properly, the chime drum is synced to it, not the other way round.

 

[tracerjack]

To get the chime side right, you need to get the (6) drop lever and the (8) chime count lever to fall into their respective slots at the same time. From reading the section, it appears you must also get the (3) chime locking lever to catch a pinned wheel to stop the chime train. By slowing the chime fan down with your finger and only allowing a single turn at a time, you will be able to determine if that pinned wheel is caught by the lever in time. The pin may be missed altogether, or it may be caught, but rolls too much before being caught which may cause the levers 6 & 8 to pop out of their slots. It appears you have the book, so you may already know this. If so, perhaps my post will help someone else who has this movement. According to the section on this movement, the chime cam merely prevents the chime count lever from falling back into the slot when the warning run releases at the quarters.

The illustration and information is from Steven Conover's "Chime Clock Repair, pg. 84. With a source credit, I'm hoping this does not violate any posting rules.

 

[Jess19721]

To get the chime side right, you need to get the (6) drop lever and the (8) chime count lever to fall into their respective slots at the same time. From reading the section, it appears you must also get the (3) chime locking lever to catch a pinned wheel to stop the chime train. By slowing the chime fan down with your finger and only allowing a single turn at a time, you will be able to determine if that pinned wheel is caught by the lever in time. The pin may be missed altogether, or it may be caught, but rolls too much before being caught which may cause the levers 6 & 8 to pop out of their slots. It appears you have the book, so you may already know this. If so, perhaps my post will help someone else who has this movement. According to the section on this movement, the chime cam merely prevents the chime count lever from falling back into the slot when the warning run releases at the quarters.
View attachment 753896
The illustration and information is from Steven Conover's "Chime Clock Repair, pg. 84. With a source credit, I'm hoping this does not violate any posting rules.

Thank you, I wasn't sure about the part the pin played. I will pull out my Conover and sit down to eyeball it with the movement once I get home, much appreciated.

 

[Jess19721]

I'd like to thank you for the guidance.

With your assistance I was able to split the plates a bit and get the mesh right with the cams and the pin lined up on the strike locking lever. I can see the chime side is set up correctly now when I trigger it. Unfortunately it also revealed that I purchased the wrong chime mainspring because without my helping it along it moves through the chime sequence weakly and stalls just from the friction of the barrel teeth. I have a cheap micrometer and I think my spring choice was too thin. I ordered and installed a .866" x .0118" x 59", does anyone happen to know the correct size for a B10 by chance?

I found a link with a discussion about this Junghans Spring Sizes and from everything mentioned it seems this spring designed for a Hermle might work?

.827" x .0157" x 61" Hole End Mainspring For #41 Hermle Barrel

Hermle barrel mainspring measures 21mm x 0.40mm x 1550mm. For #41 barrel & others.

timesavers.com

My concern is it isn't as wide as the original broken spring was (the .866 was only slightly less wide) but it is thicker. Do you all think the difference between a .0118 and a .0157 might solve my power problem? Is the width difference something that will be problematic? Again, thanks for your time! I know my questions are very basic as I try to learn as I go.

 

[new2clocks]

does anyone happen to know the correct size for a B10 by chance?

'B10' is not a movement model - it is a date code.

I imagine there were 5 or 6 different movement models that Junghans produced in the second half of the year 1910, which is what the 'B10' represents, so referring to your movement as a 'B10' is misleading and may not be of any assistance to you.

Your movement is colloquially referred to as an 'Arched type' plate.

Regards.

 

[tracerjack]

The weak performance of the chime may not be due to the mainspring. The chime barrel often needs adjustment so that the chime train stops the moment the last hammer falls. Then, when the chime train starts up again at the next quarter, there will be enough gap between when it starts and the first hammer must be lifted for it to get up to proper speed. If the first hammer starts lifting when the chime train is only at half speed, it is usually sluggish for the whole note sequence or may stall. I have had to make that adjustment just yesterday on a Gustav Becker movement. Occasionally the chime wouldn’t start. Each time I saw a hammer slightly raised. I’d adjust the barrel and it would work well for a day, then miss a quarter. Turns out I wasn't tightening the drum set screw enough and the barrel would gradually shift.

However, you have not mentioned whether you bushed any of the pivots holes. Some chiming movement designs are not the best and need to be in near perfect condition to perform well. For some, just a little wear everywhere is enough to make them inconsistent. You may need also need to go back and check the meshing of each wheel in the chime train, starting with the mainspring barrel. It needs to smoothly rotate all the way around with the next wheel in the train. You would need to remove the ratchet to turn the barrel freely by hand.

 

[tracerjack]

I just now realized this is the movement from another thread in which you repaired the trundles in a wheel caused by a broken mainspring. I’m assuming it was the chime mainspring. When broken mainsprings cause damage, it is easy to stop looking when we see something obvious. But, damage often occurs higher up the train that is not obvious, like slightly bent pivots or slightly damaged teeth. I think you need to inspect the entire chime train carefully, particularly if you see any wobble in the wheels as they turn or the slightest resistance in the meshing.
Out of curiosity, what measurements did you get from the broken chime mainspring?

 

[Jess19721]

Thank you!

I carefully inspected each wheel on the chime train this time before reassembly and didn't see any obvious damage like missing teeth. When I run it with the chime barrel off I don't see any severe wobble on any of them. I did the shake test and made sure the wheels spun in all 3 trains without binding before adding power back but didn't take the rachet off like you suggested to see if it is totally smooth action. Thank you for that, I will do so first thing after I let the springs back down. I will take an as-is video between the plates first tonight and show you what it looks like when it is stalling just in case you have time to see if something jumps out?

The first time I didn't take the wheel with the broken trundles all the way out of the plate to inspect because it is attached on the chime pin on the front. I still can't believe how sloppy my inspection was that I didn't see the cracked pins until I had it back together with the new spring in.

I couldn't find the slip of paper with the measurements I took, but I remember the thickness I thought I was looking for was only slightly thicker than what I ordered and I was afraid to size up. The original was approximately 62 inches and I was concerned about that as well since my selected spring was a little shorter. Now I'm afraid my micrometer is too cheap to trust for thickness that fine, but you are right I may be barking up the wrong tree with my spring concern altogether.

I had a concern when I put in the replacement spring that it seemed like seemed significantly slighter than the going and strike springs, enough that I weighed all three barrels. The chime came out significantly lighter and I also notice that when I wind it it seems to surprisingly fewer turns to wind it than with the other too barrels. This is why I thought I just might be better to abandon my sad attempt to ascertain the correct spring, and piggyback on the spring suggested in the article (Hermele). The spring he used was less wide than the original though.

 

[Jess19721]

Forgot...it appears that several new bushings were put in at some point, and I didn't see any that looked worn to my admittedly untrained eye. I will take some pics of the plates once I separate them again.

 

[tracerjack]

It may end up that you need a different strength mainspring, but for now, I would check everything else first. This sentence you posted concerns me, "When I run it with the chime barrel off, I don't see an severe wobble on any of them." Makes me suspect you see some wobble. Any wobble I see in a wheel suggests to me that a pivot or arbor is bent. This one is also concerning, "...didn't see any obvious damage like missing teeth." Teeth don't have to be missing to cause trouble in the train. Look for any signs that a tooth looks different from its neighbors. I replaced a single tooth in an intermediate wheel in a line of four wheels and left it a hair too long which only showed up when the entire train was assembled. To its nearest neighbor, it ran fine, but not with the wheel on the other side. Stopped the chime train each time that tooth came around. Glad you are willing to do video and photos. It is about the best way for those on the forum to spot any problems.

 

[Jess19721]

Here are the videos showing what’s happening on a full wind. Thank you for any input!

Chime train running under full wind



Supplemental showing stutter


Chime drum added

 

[tracerjack]

Check the #3 hammer head from the back plate. In the video it looked like it rubbed against #2 as it lifted and that was when the train stalled. Could have been the angle of the video, but if not, those long hammers take a lot of power. Any rubbing or interference can stall the train. Also, if you do another video, trigger the chime train by using the minute hand and allow us to see the warning run. As for the lifter on the front plate that you showed, that small shift in the speed of the movement didn’t seem enough to stall it. I would expect a momentary shift in speed as it engaged the lifter and started it to move. Once it moved, the train appeared to go back to its regular speed. Last, I didn’t see any wobble in any of the chime wheels, so if the teeth mesh well, we will have to look elsewhere.

 

[Jess19721]

Video with chime train triggered by minute
Triggering with minute hand

 

[tracerjack]

The hammers are clear now, so that’s a check off the list. The chime train didn’t get quite up to speed in the latest video before the first hammer started to lift. Any adjustment left in the chime barrel to delay that first lift? If not, then we may be back to the mainspring being too weak. Normally, weak springs will power the train, they just won’t last the expected run time. You might want to search for those original measurements. Since you may be faced with another tear down, you can calculate the spring based on the size of the barrel. Here is the link, Calculate spring size. I’ve used it and it helped me at least get an estimate of the spring thickness. Of course, no spring that size was available, but I was able to get something close.

 

[Jeff T]

did you polish the pivots when it was apart?

 

[Jess19721]

did you polish the pivots when it was apart?

I twirled each against a jewellers cloth but that was the extent of it.

 

[Jess19721]

The hammers are clear now, so that’s a check off the list. The chime train didn’t get quite up to speed in the latest video before the first hammer started to lift. Any adjustment left in the chime barrel to delay that first lift? If not, then we may be back to the mainspring being too weak. Normally, weak springs will power the train, they just won’t last the expected run time. You might want to search for those original measurements. Since you may be faced with another tear down, you can calculate the spring based on the size of the barrel. Here is the link, Calculate spring size. I’ve used it and it helped me at least get an estimate of the spring thickness. Of course, no spring that size was available, but I was able to get something close.

Thank you, I re-meshed the chime barrel teeth one over last time, which put the "beginning" arrow a little askew to give it more run-up space on the first pin but no improvement. Thanks for pointing me at that calculator, I will use it tonight when I get her back apart.

I used this caliper. Do you recommend any particular brand that is actually up for on the task won't break the bank? I’m kicking myself for tossing the spring, but the width I used to pick the last one was the closest and the caliper could handle that part at least.

 

[shutterbug]

In your earlier video, I detect some wobble in the 3rd wheel, which also seems to run some kind of cam - perhaps associated with the auto-sync function. Any looseness in a wheel can cause issues, even making is slip out of position where it could hang on a tooth. Check that out and let us know what you see.

 

[tracerjack]

I think your calipers are fine. It is difficult (I think) to get a consistent reading when measuring for thickness because of the curve of the spring. But, usually one number will come up more than others, and as you become familiar with the common spring sizes of different types of movements, you can usually get very close to the original.
In looking at the third wheel, I see that is the wheel you replaced the trundles. Were the replacement wires the same size as the old ones? You could possibly have a depthing problem there if the wires were even slightly larger than the original. If that is not the case, the next step to me would be to replace the mainspring.

 

[Jess19721]

I think your calipers are fine. It is difficult (I think) to get a consistent reading when measuring for thickness because of the curve of the spring. But, usually one number will come up more than others, and as you become familiar with the common spring sizes of different types of movements, you can usually get very close to the original.
In looking at the third wheel, I see that is the wheel you replaced the trundles. Were the replacement wires the same size as the old ones? You could possibly have a depthing problem there if the wires were even slightly larger than the original. If that is not the case, the next step to me would be to replace the mainspring.

Thank you, good to know about the calipers.

I did measure the broken trundle wire pieces using them and they gave me a .02 inch. I figured I could always use more music wire so I puchased an arrary of sizes all the way from .015 to .032 so I could lay them side to side and visually confirm. It turned out that the .02 were clearly thinner, and the .025 looked identical. So my faith in these calipers (more likely my ablity to use them correctly) is dubious at best. I've attached a short video below that I made after completion of the lantern pinion repair and to my eye I don' t see any size difference between the two new pins and the old ones that I left as-is, do you?

A couple of days ago I went ahead and ordered the Hermle mainspring mentioned in Junghans Spring Sizes since he said it worked for him and he hadn't had any complaints back from the client long term. There was no definitive final consensus between everyone in the thread though so I'm still not confident.

I will be using the calculator if I have time to fuss with the movement after work tonight and see what I come up with. I was concerned that the Hermle was less wide than the original and also less wide than the suspected weak spring I have in the chime barrel now. But it is thicker. I'm not familiar with springs and the differences small variations in thickness can make (clearly). Is sizing up to .0157 from .0118 something that can make a large difference in power?

 

[Jess19721]

Lantern Pinion with 2 replaced trundles

 

[tracerjack]

I don’t think I would be able to tell with only my eyes if the trundles were the same size. I would put in C2, C3, and C4 by themselves, roll them and check if they come to a rolling stop. Adding a little finger pressure to C2, you might be able to feel if the action is smooth all the way around.

 

[Jess19721]

I don’t think I would be able to tell with only my eyes if the trundles were the same size. I would put in C2, C3, and C4 by themselves, roll them and check if they come to a rolling stop. Adding a little finger pressure to C2, you might be able to feel if the action is smooth all the way around.

On it! Thanks again for your time, it is very valuable.

 

[Jess19721]

Is this video long enough?
Chime train only, it seemed smooth.

 

[Jess19721]

Chime and strike barrels

 

[tracerjack]

Are the chime and strike barrels the same size? There was a thread on there being two models, one with the same size barrels and one with a larger chime barrel. From the appearance of the spring in your chime barrel, I would agree that it doesn't look right or strong enough to run the chime train. If the action of the wheels felt smooth to you, I think the next step is the new mainspring. The good news to me is that even though it presently stalls, when it runs it does so properly. I think you are near to having it running.

 

[Jess19721]

Are the chime and strike barrels the same size? There was a thread on there being two models, one with the same size barrels and one with a larger chime barrel. From the appearance of the spring in your chime barrel, I would agree that it doesn't look right or strong enough to run the chime train. If the action of the wheels felt smooth to you, I think the next step is the new mainspring. The good news to me is that even though it presently stalls, when it runs it does so properly. I think you are near to having it running.

Good morning, they are the same size. If I recalI correctly the only thing that stood out was the time barrel arbor was thicker, due to the offset wind plate (not sure of that term). I will use that formula tomorrow once I get the spring winder out. Thank you tracerjack for your patience and input on this long thread. I probably would have given up on it otherwise!

 

[Jess19721]

This clock is cursed (or I am).

I knew I was going to have to split the plates regardless because the time spring had slipped off the arbor when I let down the springs last time. I have discovered it wasn’t a slip (see pic). So now I am also in the market for a going spring. Do you think I should just replace them all? I’m very lucky it wasn’t catastrophic. It just felt like it was off the arbor, didn’t feel or hear it break or anything.

 

[tracerjack]

No, although it may seem like it, I don't think curses have anything to do with it. Mainsprings break unpredictably all the time. Unless you can microscopically examine them for metal fatigue, it's anybody's guess as to when they will break. The old mainsprings are typically reused if not cracked because they are usually superior to what is offered today. Since you are paying shipping costs, you may want to go ahead and buy a new strike and time mainspring.

In the mean time, if the strike and chime barrels are the same diameter, depth, and tooth count, while you are waiting for the new mainsprings to arrive, you could try the strike barrel in the chime train to see if the chimes run better with that mainspring. If it worked well with the strike barrel, you should only need to pop the cap in order to measure the thickness right in the barrel to know if the Hermle will work. On the other hand, you may have taken this one apart so many times, you might prefer to just wait until the new mainspring arrives.

Even though you do not get consistent measurements with your calipers, it should be within a small range, at least that is my experience. In all the chimers in which I have replaced mainsprings, they were in this range for thickness, from .015 to .018 decimal inch. I rarely find a replacement that is exactly what I need. So first I go with width. It has to be below the cap so that it doesn't rub on the cap. Next I look at length. If too long, it can be easily shortened. That will give me only a few mainsprings to chose from as regard to thickness. I usually chose between .0165 and .0175. .018 always makes me a little leery of escalating wear on the pivots. Chime and strike mainsprings are often the same thickness but different in length since the chimes have to play far more during the expected run time.

I hope some of this helps. Sometimes you just have to go with what's available and see if it works.

Addition: If I find nothing really looks good in the width I want, I will see what is available going 1mm smaller in width. Sometimes it will offer a better match and sometimes not.

2nd Addition: I should have written that if the chime barrel is larger, it often has the same thickness but longer length. If it is the same size as the strike, they are often the same or the chime is slightly thicker. But, I'm not 100% sure on this, so if any of this is wrong, please someone correct me. I consider myself experienced and very good at repair, but I'm not a master by any means.

 

[Jess19721]

Yes this is very helpful indeed. Great idea on giving the strike spring a try on the chime side, I will be excited to try that and see what happens.

 

[Jess19721]

Yes this is very helpful indeed. Great idea on giving the strike spring a try on the chime side, I will be excited to try that and see what happens.

Here it is with the strike barrel on the chime side. Seems to be he case that picking the wrong spring sunk me.
Put strike side barrel on chime side

 

[tracerjack]

What a difference! And the hammers look like they are striking at the right speed too. Glad you stuck with it. One you get the right springs, it should be running fine.

 

[Jess19721]

I'm getting excited now that there might be a happy ending! Your help has been amazing, thank you very much I am learning a lot, I sincerely appreciate it.

 

[Jess19721]

I'm getting excited now that there might be a happy ending! Your help has been amazing, thank you very much I am learning a lot, I sincerely appreciate it.

!!!A big thank you Tracerjack for your extensive help!!! She’s running strong and I got the chime talking to the strike just fine.

Turned out there was a little more damage from the chime spring break one wheel up from the repaired lantern pinion. It was very very subtle, but enough to make it stall on the chime. Thankfully it just took the stronger mainspring along with a little reshaping of three rough teeth (could only see under magnification but was still enough to grind into a stall with the chime drum installed even with more power). I still can’t believe the time mainspring broke as well. Very lucky no damage to that train. I went ahead and replaced the strike side too since this clock seemed to be insisting on itself in that regard.

Now I get to tidy up the case and face and my friend gets her clock back finally. She said she has three more broken antique wall clocks of some variety at home that she’ll let me try my hand on next so I anticipate a lot more pleading for wisdom on the forum soon.

Thanks again for the generosity.

 

[wow]

Jess, that’s a nice clock and nice work. Persistence pays off. The chimes are beautiful. It is difficult to hear well on the video but I believe your clock is out of beat. If you will post another video of it running so we can hear the ticks, we can help you get it in beat. It may not run too long as is.

 

[tracerjack]

What lovely chimes. I agree with wow that the clock was well worth all the effort you put into it to get it running again. Sounds to me like you have the makings of a fine clock repairer. I have found my own tenaciousness to be an asset in this field. And when having fun as well, couldn't ask for a better hobby. I couldn't hear the beat well enough in the video to say if it was correct or not, but that is a simple fix compared to all the others that you done. Just lift one side of the base or the other, and if the ticks become more even, the crutch needs to be adjusted.