JUBA Bim-Bam

Discussion in 'Clock Repair' started by MuensterMann, Aug 10, 2019.

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  1. MuensterMann

    MuensterMann Registered User

    Mar 23, 2008
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    Does anyone know off-hand on a German JUBA bim-bam that has one chime rod for _____ and 3 chime rods for _____, if the bim is on the 1 or the 3? When I got it, the bim one on the single rod followed by the 3-chime chord. I am not sure if it is correct. What is the usual when dealing with 1 and 3 rods, one for bim and the other for bam? Thanks!
     
  2. wow

    wow Registered User
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    Usually the first strike is on the higher pitched single rod and the second strike is on the other three which are tuned to a lower pitched chord.
     
  3. MuensterMann

    MuensterMann Registered User

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    Thanks Will, that is what I thought. The bim was so light, and the bam chord was so loud, that it made me pause. What made it worse was that the bam was slow in coming! Now that it is cleaned and lubed, hopefully faster and better sounding!
     
  4. MuensterMann

    MuensterMann Registered User

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    Another thing about this movement is that one side of the barrel arbor sits in a hole in the back plate, but the front only sits in the square of the ratchet disk/wheel. Thus, it inherently has a wobble to it. Has anyone seen this and is it an issue?
     
  5. MuensterMann

    MuensterMann Registered User

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    Here is an image to show what I mean.
    P8030007.JPG
     
  6. wow

    wow Registered User
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    That slot is there only so you can remove the spring arbor. The arbor should run on a round section at the inner end of the slot. Remove the click and check it.
     
  7. Uhralt

    Uhralt Registered User
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    That's how they are usually made.

    Uhralt
     
  8. MuensterMann

    MuensterMann Registered User

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    Are you saying that there is a round something on the inside portion of the plate? I am not sure there is. If the arbor went through something round, then how would you get it out the slot (unless the arbor comes off like a Hermle movement)? I don't have the movement in front of me now, so I cannot check for sure.
     
  9. wow

    wow Registered User
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    The arbor has a round spot that rides in the plate. There is a square section on the arbor next to that round section. When you remove the click, you can pull up on the arbor and slide the arbor and barrell out to the side. The arbor remains in the barrell and is removed by opening the barrell like old German movement barrels.
     
  10. MuensterMann

    MuensterMann Registered User

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    Is there anything there to keep the barrel from wobbling? There is a slight wobble that does affect the overall power. Is this just the design and nothing to do about it?
     
  11. wow

    wow Registered User
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    It should not wobble. Take the click off and look at what’s happening.
     
  12. shutterbug

    shutterbug Moderator
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    That round area can wear just like a hole. Just harder to bush :)
     
  13. Uhralt

    Uhralt Registered User
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    The wobble could also be in the barrel or the barrel cap itself. They often wear and need a bushing.

    Uhralt
     
  14. MuensterMann

    MuensterMann Registered User

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    A good cleaning and fresh oil and some new bushings did wonders for this movement. However, I did not do the barrels - and there is wobble. I only get a day on the time train, so must go in again and take care of the wobble. The rear bushing was worn and I believe the barrel and barrel lid holes are worn - and perhaps that front needs attention. I am capable of doing the rear plate bushing. I am not sure how much fixing that bushing will help with the time train.

    I also had to fiddle with the escapement as new bushings on the EW made the escapement not go. I had to adjust slightly. I wonder if my escapement needs more attention to get more that one day:???: Before disassembly the time ran for most of the week. Any thoughts?
     
  15. wow

    wow Registered User
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    If the barrell is wobbling, it allows it to mesh with the second wheel in the train slanted and causing a bind which decreases power. Bush the barrell and the cap and see if that gives you enough power to drive the train a week. Good luck.
     
  16. MuensterMann

    MuensterMann Registered User

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    #16 MuensterMann, Sep 27, 2019
    Last edited: Sep 27, 2019
    I am thinking that the wobble is only due to the barrel and barrel cap. How about the worn bushing on the back plate - does that add into the wobble? I am not sure if it makes it worse or it is just the same. Thoughts?

    I am not sure if the worn plate bushing is worse than the worn holes on the barrel.
     
  17. wow

    wow Registered User
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    If it’s bad I would bush the plate too. That way you can eliminate the lower wheels as your problem.
     
  18. shutterbug

    shutterbug Moderator
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    Usually the barrel cap wears more (it's thin) and causes the most problems. They can be bushed or replaced.
     
  19. R&A

    R&A Registered User

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    You may have to bush the barrel and the cap. to much wear can cause the barrel to jump teeth and take out leave pinions and bend arbors. If the front plate is worn you will need to install a bushing the slot it so you can reinstall. << Lots of fun.
     
  20. Uhralt

    Uhralt Registered User
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    How do you prevent the bushing from falling out after slotting it?
    Uhralt
     
  21. wow

    wow Registered User
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    I do not understand the slotting you mentioned. Slot the bushing?

    Sorry. I looked at the photo again and now I understand. That bushing would have to be soldered or loctite used to hold it in place?
     

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