Jerome & Co. OG

Discussion in 'General Clock Discussions' started by Stu Riegel, Sep 10, 2019.

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  1. Stu Riegel

    Stu Riegel Registered User

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    #1 Stu Riegel, Sep 10, 2019
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 10, 2019
    Picked this up from my mom.
    DSC00711rotated.jpg DSC00712.JPG DSC00713.JPG
    It runs, but the movement is loose inside the case, so I'll have it out to take a peek. Pendulum and weights not installed, but I have them, and the key.

    The beehive glass is most likely a reproduction, and shows signs of having been spray painted black. Some of the hardware is a lot newer than the case, but I'm pretty sure the face is original. If not, it's as old as the case.

    Question: How does one set the time so that the chime agrees with the hands? Other than "wait for the time to catch up with the hands and then start it"?
     
  2. Steven Thornberry

    Steven Thornberry User Administrator
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    #2 Steven Thornberry, Sep 10, 2019
    Last edited: Sep 10, 2019
    I have moved this post to its own thread for better exposure of your clock.

    If it is only the hour that is off when it strikes, that should be an easy enough fix. The hour hand is press fit on its arbor and can be moved to the correct hour. Simply move it carefully so as not to damage it, and be sure while moving it that you do not inadvertently move it out on its arbor. (It can be pushed back in position to ensure it does not foul the minute hand, however.) Of course, you need to keep it wound, and if you do, but the strike keeps going off, the movement could probably do with a good servicing.

    Is that the issue, that only the hour is off? If it is striking before or after the minute hand reaches the "12," that is a different adjustment, again possibly simple, but possibly a bit more complex, depending.
     
  3. Willie X

    Willie X Registered User

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    Some have a sync wire that hangs down behind the dial, to the left of the pendulum. Pressing the wire upward will move the strike one step foward. Repeat as necessary.

    David L. recommends moving the minute hand foward until you hear the little 'whir' at warning (about 3 minutes before the strike point) and then moving minute hand back until it strikes. Repeat as necessary.

    Now you have 3 ways to re-sync your hour count ...

    WIllie X
     
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  4. Stu Riegel

    Stu Riegel Registered User

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    Thanks for the move.

    I don't know if there's an issue or not. I wound it briefly yesterday, and checked if it ran, but stopped the clock again when I saw the movement was loose in the case. I'll be able to tear into it later today or tomorrow. Just curious about the striking movement, is all.

    Thanks for that. I'll look for that sync wire.
     
  5. Stu Riegel

    Stu Riegel Registered User

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    #5 Stu Riegel, Sep 10, 2019
    Last edited: Sep 10, 2019
    Good news & bad news.

    The good: it runs, eagerly. Started ticking before I even got the pendulum hung.

    The bad? Striking is weird. It struck 24 times with the hands at (okay, near) 2:00. Is that supposed to be midnight, or is something borked? Something plonked into place to stop it from striking again, so I'm thinking this is by design. I'll wait an hour and see if it strikes once at 3:00

    Movement pic:

    DSC00715.JPG

    I assume the sync wire is that kinky one on the left?

    Movement is not loose in the case, but the wood has shrunk a bit, so the wooden platform at the bottom doesn't slot in as tightly as it did back in 1860.

    The crutch rod is kinked a bit and rubbing the front of the movement. There's quite a lot of oil on there so I'm guessing Dad did that, prior to replacing the crutch, which he never got to do. But I might. I found two of 'em.
     
  6. lpbp

    lpbp Registered User
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    #6 lpbp, Sep 10, 2019
    Last edited: Sep 10, 2019
    I can't see in the picture, but there should be a wooden block, with a slot in it that holds the movement, then attaches to the back of case. es the wire on the side is the lift wire, sounds like the movement needs cleaning, these are easy movements to clean, if you decide to tackle it, we can help.
     
  7. Willie X

    Willie X Registered User

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    The sync wire should be straight and the eye should be round. This wire can hang up and cause erratic striking errors.
    WIllie X
     
  8. Stu Riegel

    Stu Riegel Registered User

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    It struck 7 at 3:00 (ish) and 10 at 6:00, so something's goofy for sure. No idea where 24 came from, but it seems to be back on sequence, even if it's off.
     
  9. Stu Riegel

    Stu Riegel Registered User

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    Update: Everything's ticking along nicely. Apparently what it needed was exercise.
     
  10. Stu Riegel

    Stu Riegel Registered User

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    So this happened:
    DSC00716.JPG
    Not for the first time, from the looks of all that wood glue.

    The strike mech's rope sometimes winds onto the shaft rather than the drum. If you keep winding it gets bound up and won't strike, which you won't know because you're not in the room. Next time you wind, the weight is at the top already so the weight tips, falls off the hook and blows the bottom out. This is a new discovery for me but probably not for you. Anyway, not how I wanted to start the day.

    DSC00717.JPG

    Began by repairing the side panels, since they had got shocked loose and no longer lined up properly. Drilled a 5/64 hole (smallest bit I had, probably could have gone a hair smaller) and tapped in some 4d nails (why is penny abbreviated with a d?) and some wood glue, since this clock was already glue-bombed anyway.

    DSC00718.JPG

    You can see how rough the bottom was, with evidence of previous blowouts. Two of the possibly-original spikes were re-used, since only two were left. The others had been cut off some time in the distant past. More drilling and more 4d nails completed the repair.

    It's back on the wall, and running again. Wound properly this time.
     
  11. Steven Thornberry

    Steven Thornberry User Administrator
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    The “d” comes from the Latin denarius, a low value Roman coin. It effectively means penny. The British used “d” as an abbreviation for penny until the 1970’s, Thus, 4d for 4 penny nails.
     
  12. gleber

    gleber Registered User

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    Bummer, but it looks like a good repair job.

    I like to sit clocks on a shelf rather than hang them from a hook or hole on the back. Some cases obviously aren't suited to sit on a shelf, but Ogees are. I have some older cuckoos and wooden plate movements and the frames are sagging in the front due to the weights being offset from the mounting point on the back. For those, I set them on two angle brackets to allow the weights to hang down between the brackets, but not stress the frame. The angles are mounted on a plate that is securely mounted on the wall and concealed behind the clock. The plate also has a hook that goes in the usual hole in the clock for hanging and keeps the clock from being bumped off the brackets, but otherwise doesn't take any load. I use an angled up hook, so you can't pull the clock straight off the brackets, you have to lift the clock up to clear the hook. I suppose I could add an OSHA approved safety harness, but that might interfere with the aesthetics a little too much.

    Tom
     
  13. Willie X

    Willie X Registered User

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    It's always good to have a safety wire at the top of any narrow clock with a door. It only takes a few minutes to install and can literally save your clock from disaster.

    I know that this doesn't relate directly to a dropped weight but it does relate to busted clocks in general. :)

    Willie X
     
  14. Stu Riegel

    Stu Riegel Registered User

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    Steven, thanks for that. I've been wondering for 50-some years. My knowledge of "d for penny" stopped at pre-decimalised English currency, without knowing why the Brits would use that.

    Gleber, if I had any shelf space, the clock would be on it. It was hard enough finding (making) wall space.

    Willie, somebody drilled a hole thru the label to keep the clock level when the door is open, so I ran a screw thru there for the same purpose. It also serves as a second mounting and stabilizes the clock (I did the same thing to my ST2). Safety wire's not a bad idea, as long as it's not screwed into the case. Maybe run the wire up past the pulleys and into the wall. I'll have to see if I can run a cable so it doesn't interfere with the ropes.
     
  15. Willie X

    Willie X Registered User

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    A small short eye screw is good. Pre drill a 1/16" hole right in the geographic center of the top board. Stop a little short of going through, especially if the movement is installed. The best screw eyes are rather thick and have a small hole of about 1/4". Sometimes these hooks can be bought alone but sometimes you have to buy a 'screen door hook set' to get these little babies. Quiet a few old clocks will already have this eye screw installed. If you want the screw eye to look old, heat it to a dull red and drop it in some used motor oil. Repeat if necessary. Willie X
     
  16. Willie X

    Willie X Registered User

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    Exactly what happened to cause the weight to drop? The weight shouldn't "tip" for any reason I can think off. Except maybe, the hook is to big or misshapened, or the weight may not have the necessary recesses in the top??
    WIllie X
     
  17. Stu Riegel

    Stu Riegel Registered User

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    Good question. I suspect it was a combination of errors. I was probably winding too fast, and it was already near the top. It probably hit the pulley and tipped just enough that the hook could release. I'll take a pic of the weights tomorrow morning when they get to the bottom.
     
  18. Willie X

    Willie X Registered User

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    Nothing but cord should be in contact with the pulley. Willie X
     
  19. Stu Riegel

    Stu Riegel Registered User

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    Here's the chime-side drive weight. Don't know if it's original but it's certainly old enough to be.

    DSC00719.JPG

    You can see how the hook sits down in a bowl. The time train's weight is the same, only a bit longer.

    When I wind the chime side, there's a point in the weight's travel, about 3/4 of the way up, where the key seems to slip. About 1/4 turn is very loose, then it goes back to pulling the weight up. I don't think it's related to dropping the weight, it's done that every time I wind it. I have a feeling the whole movement needs a good clean.

    Back to the striking error: It strikes 2 minutes early. If I'm going to have the works out, I might as well address that too.
     
  20. gleber

    gleber Registered User

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    I've seen Ogees on their own little shelf rather than finding room on an existing shelf. It should still be secured to the wall so it doesn't topple when the door is opened.

    Tom
     

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