Help JB weld removal

Tbucket

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Repairing this Seth Thomas movement & found a strip of brass that was added instead of a bushing. I would like to remove it & properly bush the pivot hole. The problem is that this was put on with what appears to be JB weld. Anybody have any tips for removing this without damaging the plate?

ST bandaid.jpg
 

Schatznut

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You might try hitting it with a heat gun. It won't get hot enough to damage the metal but should get hot enough to soften the epoxy.
 

Dick C

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From the JB Weld website:

How can I remove J-B Weld after it is fully cured? When fully cured, J-B Weld can only be removed by grinding or filing it off, or by directly heating the product above the 600º maximum temperature threshold.
 
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Tbucket

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From the JB Weld website:

How can I remove J-B Weld after it is fully cured? When fully cured, J-B Weld can only be removed by grinding or filing it off, or by directly heating the product above the 600º maximum temperature threshold.
I was afraid of that..... thanks for the reply.
 

Willie X

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I would try to pop it off, using a sharp knife or single edge razor blade. Away from the edge of the clock plate would be better.
Willie X
 
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R. Croswell

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In the picture, it looks more like solder. JB-Weld is good stuff, but I suspect that if you can get a blade under the brass, you may be able to pop it off. Try to dig it a bit with a knife, if it is solder it should roll up a metal sliver. JB-Weld will come off as dust or chips. Application of flame from a small butane torch will provide the required heat if the brass doesn't pop off.

RC

Yes, what Willie said.
 
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Tbucket

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In the picture, it looks more like solder. JB-Weld is good stuff, but I suspect that if you can get a blade under the brass, you may be able to pop it off. Try to dig it a bit with a knife, if it is solder it should roll up a metal sliver. JB-Weld will come off as dust or chips. Application of flame from a small butane torch will provide the required heat if the brass doesn't pop off.

RC

Yes, what Willie said.
I thought it was solder when I first looked at it, but was not able to get it to melt, even where it was sticking out from under the plate. I tried using resistant solder technique & that didn't work either. Thanks RC for giving me a reason to finally purchase a mini torch....
 

Tbucket

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In the picture, it looks more like solder. JB-Weld is good stuff, but I suspect that if you can get a blade under the brass, you may be able to pop it off. Try to dig it a bit with a knife, if it is solder it should roll up a metal sliver. JB-Weld will come off as dust or chips. Application of flame from a small butane torch will provide the required heat if the brass doesn't pop off.

RC

Yes, what Willie said.
mini torch purchased. band aid removed in 2 seconds! thank you guys. you are the best!

fix.jpg
 
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Tbucket

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Was it solder or JB-Weld? JB-Weld would stink in the flame I think.

RC
I'm stumped. I didn't notice any smell. It's a shiny silver color like solder would be, but I can't get it to melt with my soldering irons. Could it be a high temperature silver solder?

solder.jpg
 

Schatznut

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That ain't JB Weld, that's for sure. If you heat it up, it gets chalky and dull and can be scraped easily with an X-acto knife. Shiny = solder and when you scrape it, it comes up in shavings.
 

R. Croswell

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It’s probable that your soldering irons just don’t have enough wattage. If you hold it in the butane flame and get it to the melting point of solder and wipe with a cotton rag (cotton won’t melt) the solder should wipe off leaving a smooth silver color. I think JB-Weld burn and stink.

RC
 

Tbucket

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It’s probable that your soldering irons just don’t have enough wattage. If you hold it in the butane flame and get it to the melting point of solder and wipe with a cotton rag (cotton won’t melt) the solder should wipe off leaving a smooth silver color. I think JB-Weld burn and stink.

RC
I think you are correct. This was just the first time that my soldering guns failed. It took a few trials to get here, but this is solder & I now have a Mini Torch. Thanks everyone for your opinions & advice.
 

gmorse

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Hi Tbucket,
This was just the first time that my soldering guns failed.
Remember that you're trying to melt some solder applied to a much larger piece of brass which is acting as a heat-sink, cooling the area as fast as you heated it. If it was brazing or silver solder, you'd have had to raise it to red heat to melt it.

Regards,

Graham
 
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tommykat1

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I'm a newbie to clock repair, but like many, I've been using various epoxy products for years. As an aside, regarding J-B Weld, it's a bit like calling all tissue paper "Kleenex." The company, J-B Weld, makes all kinds of epoxy products, like liquid 5 minute epoxy (amber), epoxy putty for marine use (white) and epoxy putty for industrial use (gray). The white and gray products come in a tube, and are like a jelly roll. You cut off a chunk and knead it like clay, which mixes the hardener with the epoxy, and it hardens to near steel strength in 20 minutes. The 5 minute epoxy is liquid in form and comes in two squirt bottles. The jelly roll industrial epoxy putty is sold under a few different brands, such as ProPoxy 20 and Oatey. Likewise, 5 minute epoxy is sold under many brand names. I'm sure everyone is aware of the different products, but it helps to know which actual product is suspected of being used. Thus, is it white, gray or amber? In this case, none of the above. It appears to be solder.
 
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R. Croswell

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You are correct that the J"B-Weld" name appears on various products. The one I was referring to is the one that has a black past and white hardener paste and hardens to look like "metal". Quite a good product when used for appropriate repairs.

RC
 
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