Is it ok to use mineral spirits to clean brass mantle clock movements?

[Gage_robertson_collector]

I recently started to begin disassembling and cleaning my clock movements, and I have been using regular hardware store mineral spirits and a brass wire brush to clean, the I use toothpicks to clean out the bushings, and I rinse with water, and then I use an air compressor to blow all the water off the seperate components. I have noticed though, when cleaning the movements by hand in the mineral spirits solution, and after it has dried, fingerprints begin to show up on the movement. Is that normal? Is there a way that can be avoided? Someone in another thread suggested using rubber gloves, but is there a step to the cleaning process that I am missing? Am I supposed to rinse off the movement with soap and water before drying it off, or should I not be using mineral spirits, keeping in mind that I am just getting started with this hobby and I am not looking to buy an ultrasonic cleaning machine yet,

thank you, any info is greatly appreciated.

- Gage Robertson

 

[tracerjack]

I simply use liquid dish soap and hot water. Tooth brushes and toothpicks to remove the old sludgy oil. Rinse, pat dry, hot air drying box. Slow this way compared to an ultrasonic, and nothing ends up shiny, but it’s all clean. Since I’m only working on my own clocks, slow and clean is fine for me. I don’t think any method to clean will prevent fingerprints.

 

[Willie X]

No need to use water after the mineral spirits.

A brass brush is great on steel parts but it will scratch the brass. Sometimes I use a fine rotary brass brush (Dremel) to get the really hard crud off immediately around the bushing holes and especially the post, where the main-springs attach. A toothbrush will take care of these areas most of the time. Willie X

 

[Schatznut]

Mineral spirits won't attack lacquered plates and it has an added advantage of leaving a light oil coating on steel, preventing flash rust.

 

[Keith Doster]

I have begun to use nitrile examination gloves more often to eliminate fingerprints. Timesavers sells them. I agree with Willie that the brass brush will scratch the brass. If you have to be that aggressive to get the movement clean, I'd suggest 000 or 0000 steel wool. Another excellent cleaner/polisher is Barkeeper's Friend. You can get it just about anywhere including your grocery store. Use a stiff toothbrush and the Barkeeper's Friend and you'll be surprised how well it works. Just be sure to remove all traces of it from all pivot holes/bushings.

 

[Gage_robertson_collector]

I have begun to use nitrile examination gloves more often to eliminate fingerprints. Timesavers sells them. I agree with Willie that the brass brush will scratch the brass. If you have to be that aggressive to get the movement clean, I'd suggest 000 or 0000 steel wool. Another excellent cleaner/polisher is Barkeeper's Friend. You can get it just about anywhere including your grocery store. Use a stiff toothbrush and the Barkeeper's Friend and you'll be surprised how well it works. Just be sure to remove all traces of it from all pivot holes/bushings.

Can I just use regular brass cleaner? I want to get the plates shiny but I do not have the ultrasonic convenience. So far I have noticed that the brass brush does not scratch the brass, but the steel brushes do.

 

[Gage_robertson_collector]

No need to use water after the mineral spirits.

A brass brush is great on steel parts but it will scratch the brass. Sometimes I use a fine rotary brass brush (Dremel) to get the really hard crud off immediately around the bushing holes and especially the post, where the main-springs attach. A toothbrush will take care of these areas most of the time. Willie X

So you think I should just wash the movement and scrub off the oil in mineral spirits and dry off with the air compressor or should I dry it using another method?

- Gage

 

[Kevin W.]

I suggest you take the movement apart to clean it, it will be easier to do and to do any repairs, it will have to come apart.

 

[JeffG]

... and dry off with the air compressor or should I dry it using another method?

- Gage

Be careful with an air compressor. They tend to condense water vapor into the tanks where it goes back to liquid. The liquid rusts the interior of the tank, and you end up spraying a mist of rusty water all over your cleaned parts unless you put some type of filtration between the tank and the nozzle.

 

[Gage_robertson_collector]

Be careful with an air compressor. They tend to condense water vapor into the tanks where it goes back to liquid. The liquid rusts the interior of the tank, and you end up spraying a mist of rusty water all over your cleaned parts unless you put some type of filtration between the tank and the nozzle.

so do you think that it is best to use a towel?

 

[Gage_robertson_collector]

I suggest you take the movement apart to clean it, it will be easier to do and to do any repairs, it will have to come apart.

yes that is what I did originally. When I go to replace the bushings I will disassemble it again.

 

[RJSoftware]

A brush with nylon/plastic bristles is more suitable for brass. I use water + dish soap + ammonia. Ammonia instantly brightens up brass chemically. But shiny brass is only temporary unless the brightened surface is sealed from oxidation. That is why they are shellac sealdd.

Me, I like clean brown brass. Mineral spirits probably would be ok, but a purist wouldn't appreciate it because the oily film would eventually attract dust and grit which would add to wear. That's why when clocks and watches are oiled a very tiny amount is applied to each rotating pivot/bushing. Notice lever pivots don't rotate 360 so they get no oil. Excess oil at those pivot/bushing spots will pull oil out by dripping away with capillary action. It's supposed to be just the right sized drop to cling right to the bushing oil well. An oil dipper is used to catch and apply the just oh so perfect drop to the spot. This is even more critical in the watch world as oil dippers for them are much smaller and come in assorted sizes. Interestingly, they can be used to apply a super tiny drop of super glue in critical places. A cheat if you dare.

The spirit of the purist perfectionism is somewhat over exaggerated especially when it comes to the science of lubrication. I suppose there would be no argument if the pieces where wiped dry, polished after applying mineral spirits.

Me, I'm a tactile kind of guy. Wiping parts down with thin coat of oil till only shine remains appeals to me. Polishing a shine on the parts is part of the bond I feel when repairing.

I use to use Marvel Mystery Oil. Same sort of effect but it smells good too. Probably some chemical that risk cancer but "ah, it's nice smell".

I was thinking about this with the psychology of customer in mind. Even considered using a little Vics vapor rub. Put a little dab somewhere in the case, but it's too recognizable. Marvel Mystery Oil is pleasing and mysterious.

 

[Dave Diel]

Be careful with an air compressor. They tend to condense water vapor into the tanks where it goes back to liquid. The liquid rusts the interior of the tank, and you end up spraying a mist of rusty water all over your cleaned parts unless you put some type of filtration between the tank and the nozzle.

Compressed Air Filter

Compressed air is the only way I dry my parts.

I often use mineral spirits for cleaning springs and particularly dirty movements. Haven't seen a need for anything more aggressive than a toothbrush. Unfortunately, the mineral spirits leaves an odor on the parts and the wife yells at me when I bring them back into the house. I've found that a quick rinse in VM&P Naphtha before drying the parts makes the smell go away. Naphtha also works well for cleaning.

 

[Schatznut]

I am a strong advocate of Starrett M1 to preserve and prevent rust. Excellent stuff; smells good; dries leaving virtually no residue.

 

[Keith Doster]

Canned air works well if used correctly, meaning upright. And you don't need to run out and buy a compressor! Regarding getting the plates shiny, B'keeper's Friend is a great, mild polish. With patience and elbow grease (i.e. hard work), they will turn out very nice. Don't use it on lacquered plates. However, mild soap and water is also excellent. A degreasing soap like Dawn dish detergent is good. To help remove water moisture when you rinse the soap off, douse everything in a denatured (not isopropyl) alcohol bath. It's cheap and you can get it at the pharmacy or buy it by the gallon at Lowes. The alcohol draws off the water moisture and helps movement dry more quickly. Lots of guys just use a hairdryer (think Goodwill - $5) to dry off the movement. Combine that with the alcohol rinse and you'll get a pretty nice final product.