international time recording wiring diagram for A.20-42-2

mountainoftruth

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I have had this clock for a long time. It came from England so it's probably 220 at the start.

There was a note in it and it looks like its a 13-7 master clock. it was dated 1951.

there was a second line in the note that says model number A.20-42-2 with 12" face.

I would like to get it going, we can do any electrical work here at the museum.

thanks for any help.

ian macgregor canadian museum of making www.museumofmaking.org
 

bruce linde

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ian - best chance for success is to post photos... lots of big, clear photos. i'm moving this to 'electric horology'... which will also help. :)
 

mountainoftruth

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Mar 6, 2021
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I have had this clock for a long time. It came from England so it's probably 220 at the start.

There was a note in it and it looks like its a 13-7 master clock. it was dated 1951.

there was a second line in the note that says model number A.20-42-2 with 12" face.

I would like to get it going, we can do any electrical work here at the museum.

thanks for any help.

ian macgregor canadian museum of making www.museumofmaking.org
Also what is the state of the clock? Is it mounted or in storage?
it looks to be in good condition.

I bought it about 10 years ago, carefully stored it and I am now getting around to putting it in operation. the slave clocks were damaged so it will operate by itself.

20210306_181206.jpg 20210306_181231.jpg 20210306_181310.jpg
 

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Toughtool

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OK.
1. Find a suitable location, such as a sound and sturdy wall, to mount the master. There should be a power outlet near by since this is an electrical device. Use a nail or screw capable of holding the weight of the clock.
2. I suggest you remove the face to make installing the pendulum rod easier and make the beat adjustment. This would be a good time to take photos of the movement and contacts so we can see what you have to work with. To remove the dial, pull the second hand straight out. Then remove the nut holding the minute hand, then pull the hour hand straight off. Finally remove the four screws mounting the dial.
3.The clock's case should be set plumb either with a level or using the pendulum and scale at the bottom. Most masters have a hole at the bottom where a screw is used to prevent the case from moving left or right. If there is no hole, I suggest you mount a small bracket under the bottom out of clock's case and attach this to the wall.

When you get that far and post photos of the movement, we can continue. Is there a separate cabinet with relays and power supply components? A photo of the top of the cabinet showing the wires an/or terminals is also needed.

What is the damage to your secondaries? These secondaries are pretty tough so you may be able to repair one or more.
 
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