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Installing an hour hand bushing

Jeremy Woodoff

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Jun 30, 2002
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What's the correct way to install one of the thin brass bushings on an American shelf clock hour hand? Because the bushing is split and the lip that the hand boss rests on is pretty minimal, there seems to be no way to support the assembly while hammering or pressing down the top edge of the bushing onto the hour hand.

Jeremy
 

Scottie-TX

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Apr 6, 2004
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Well JERRY, I don't fully understand the challenge here or the part that eludes you.
Certainly I believe a picture of the situation would be enormous help.
However, I envision placing the hand over a hole in a piece of wood or brass only a few thou bigger than the split bush and proceeding.
I'm sure I don't fully understand the problem tho.
 
W

Wayne Adams

Jeremy, I almost always have to increase the depth of the shoulder that is to receive the hand. Having done so, I place the bushing into a staking plate hole that alloww the bushing to rest on its boss so that the split part of the bushing is protected while the upper shoulder is being peened to retain the hand. (Right now, a picture of this would be real handy.)
 

Jeremy Woodoff

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Jun 30, 2002
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Wayne & Scottie,

Thanks for your replies. Getting a photo of the actual situation will take a while, so I have attached a photo of one of these hand bushings borrowed from Timesavers on-line catalogue:

207.jpg

Scottie, your idea (if I understand correctly) doesn't work because any downward pressure on the bushing necessary to peen or fold over the upper part to retain the hand causes the bushing to be squeezed together (since it is split) and pushes it into the hole. I think what Wayne is describing is to increase the depth of the rounded shoulder that receives the hand. If this were increased in depth and formed to an angle perpendicular to the shaft of the bushing, I think it would prevent the bushing from being pushed down. So the question now is, how is this shoulder re-formed? The only way I can envision is to unroll the bushing to a flat piece of metal and then reform the shoulder using flat pliers and re-rolling. Is there a better way?

Jeremy
 
J

JohnH

Jeremy:
If I understand the problem correctly...this is how I was taught to do any kind of riveting on thinner material/hollow tubes.
Turn a mandrel in the lath that fits up into the bushing with a nice tight sliding fit. Also turn a shoulder on this upper portion of the mandrel so the bottom of the bushing sits on it.
Then put the bushing in your stake using a hole that has a nice clear edge so the should of the bushing isn't forced into the stake easily. The mandrel fits up inside the bushing withthe bottom of the bushing just above the shoulder on the mandrel
Rivet the hand on. The shoulder of the bushing will take the brunt of the impact, the mandrel will keep the bushing from collapsing and the shoulder of the mandrel/bottom of the bushing will take the residual riveting force if the bushing shifts down.
When done the inside of the bushing can be cleaned up with a broach. Be aware that brass-esp new rolled brass- work hardens quickly so rivet as accurately as possible to keep the hammer blows to a minimum
HTH
John
 

Jeremy Woodoff

NAWCC Member
Jun 30, 2002
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John,

Thank you for the clear explanation of how to do this. I decided that obtaining and learning to use a lathe would be a bit much for this operation! But I used the principles you stated to do the work, using a tapered stick of wood as the mandrel. It came out fairly well, and while not the neatest rivet, it holds the hand and is hidden underneath the minute hand anyway.

Thanks all!

Jeremy
 

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