Most visitors online was 1660 , on 12 Dec 2020
Were you referring to this brass collar? If yes, did you simply squeezed it with the pliers and rotated & slid towards the end to release tension on the spring during pivot repair stage? I have just discovered that my Ingraham 10 leaf pinion gave up. "Thanks goodness" it cracked right in the middle of the leaf.. Still, it sits so tight on the shaft. This is one "real good" friction fit application. The ID of this pinion was much smaller than it should have been. I will make an attempt to remove and repair following the instructions provided in this thread.Well, all.... the deed is done...
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In hindsight, I could have used just a TAD more solder.. you can see that the very bottom of the crack isn't quite filled, but that vast majority is. The pinion gear is firmly affixed to the arbor, NO solder buildup anywhere to get in the way of smooth rotation of the minute gear, the cannon butts up against the soldered pinion smoothly with no gap and leaves the perfect amount of clearance for the minute hand (not shown), and I was able to relocate the brass collar that governs the tension on the spring with no problem. I placed the chip of solder on the side of the gear that is currently hidden by the minute gear, and there's good flow all around that arbor there, despite not much flow through to the visible side of that gear/arbor mating surface.
I can't thank you enough! Here's hoping that this is all that was wrong! Now... to get this puppy back together.
I suppose nobody is in the mood to hear two easier ways to deal with a cracked Ingraham cannon pinion: (1) get a new one from Timesavers or (2) while holding all the center-shaft parts in place and the clutch spring under compression, apply a drop of red Loc-Tite to the gear such that it's glued to the shaft. It's perfectly reversible if you mess up, for LocTite turns into mush when heated to maybe 300 degrees. But the clocks I've repaired this way are all going strong.Here’s one I just finished yesterday where the brass collar and the cannon pinion were both cracked. I made a new collar and pressed it in place. Then used liquid silver bearing solder to fill the crack on the pinion and soldered it to the arbor while clamping the crack tight with small vice grips. There is still a tiny crack but the space is so small the teeth still mesh. The tension is perfect to be able to set the minute hand.
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(1) Could you please provide the link for a new 10-leaf Pinion for Ingraham movements? I could not locate one on the Timesavers website.I suppose nobody is in the mood to hear two easier ways to deal with a cracked Ingraham cannon pinion: (1) get a new one from Timesavers or (2) while holding all the center-shaft parts in place and the clutch spring under compression, apply a drop of red Loc-Tite to the gear such that it's glued to the shaft. It's perfectly reversible if you mess up, for LocTite turns into mush when heated to maybe 300 degrees. But the clocks I've repaired this way are all going strong.
Hi Times,After two weeks of running this clock, it's safe to say that it was a success story. One has to be patient while repairing such cracked pinion, but it's very rewarding as clock is working very accurately and produces very pleasant chime (two chime rods). Thanks to everyone for help / guidance.
Thank you! You are being very kind, but yes, it's almost impossible to notice where the crack was before.Hi Times,
Great job. You can't even see the repair! So what was your approach in repairing this pinion?
I go through that too. Thanks for your explanation and photos.I wasted lots of time "experimenting" and trying to take photos & videos. At some point I said to myself "enough is enough" and simply followed these few steps to complete the job within an hour or two.
Regarding "pass your thinnest jewelers saw through the crack":I use about the same method as RC, but I file away most of the upset metal on the shaft, then pass your thinnest jewelers saw through the crack in the gear. This is all prep for the solder job.
Now, wrap the gear with 2 turns of iron tie wire; it's important that it's IRON tie wire and twist it tight, tight enough to close the crack.
Finally, place the gear on the shaft. Hopefully, it will be tight enough to require some force but not so tight to open the crack, adjust the fit as necessary. This tension will allow you to put the hour pipe back on and precisely locate the gear for a 10 thou end shake.
Remove the shaft from the movement, take off the hour pipe, check to make sure all the parts are oriented correctly and solder away.
Soldering tips: look up 'jewelers method of soldering'. It takes only a tiny piece of solder, about the size of a small rice grain.
Put the chip of solder at the junction of the fluxed crack and shaft. There should be some flux on the solder chip too. Apply a small brushy flame from below and opposite the chip of solder, concentrating the heat on the shaft, not the gear. The flame should never stop moving. When all is well the solder will flow in a second or less. Back off and let it completely cool.
If you don't have years of soldering experience, I would take it to someone who does.