Howard Miller Chateau grandfather clock

ilchick47

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Jan 5, 2021
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I recently picked up a Howard Miller grandfather clock but it did not have the chains or weights. I have been searching for a product list for the size chain and the proper weights to put on this clock. Do anyone know where I might find that information. I found the users manual but obviously Im not googling the right words to get this information. Thanks
 

Dick Feldman

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Sep 1, 2000
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Howard Miller has, over the years, used different manufacturers for their clock movements. The chains and weights are specific to the movement. Please supply clear, close up photos , especially of the rear of the clock movement.
Without that, we cannot help much.
The Howard Miller clock also should have a serial number and model number on a plate inside the door.
That information may be helpful as well.
Looking forward to hearing from you again,
Best,
Dick
 

wow

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Jun 24, 2008
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Mark Butterworth is a specialist in this area and supplies the items you are looking for. He is listed in the “suppliers” section at the top of the clock repair page. As Dick said, you will need all the numbers off the back of the movement.
 

ilchick47

Registered User
Jan 5, 2021
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Howard Miller has, over the years, used different manufacturers for their clock movements. The chains and weights are specific to the movement. Please supply clear, close up photos , especially of the rear of the clock movement.
Without that, we cannot help much.
The Howard Miller clock also should have a serial number and model number on a plate inside the door.
That information may be helpful as well.
Looking forward to hearing from you again,
Best,
Dick
16143543477104183511901127414211.jpg 16143543851075097299920392946882.jpg
 

Dick Feldman

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Sep 1, 2000
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Thanks for that information.
That movement was manufactured by Hermle in 1993
The weight specifications with a wooden shaft pendulum are:
Time train: 4.7 lb
Strike train: 4.7 lb.
Chime train: 6.6 lb
The drive chains with Hermle movements are pretty standard but I do not have specifications on those.

A discussion follows:
That movement is 28 years old. Clock movements are machines and have an expected lifespan. The most common cause of failure is low power due to friction caused by wear caused by normal use. A reasonable life span for that movement (one from that era) is 20-25 years. The movement in your clock is not a high end/fancy feature movement. Proper repair offers two choices. The first is to rebuild the existing movement and the second is purchase of a new, identical movement. I mention this as the clock movement you have may be beyond its normal useful life and may not perform with the addition of weights and chains. It is not necessary to have specific clock weights to test run a movement as long as there is proper clearance between the weight and the pendulum, etc. For testing purposes a common stone or a series of bricks wired together with sufficient weight could be used.
Working clocks are seldom offered for sale. That is a sad fact of life. Clocks end up in thrift stores, eBay, etc. because they do not run and because the cost to properly replace/rebuild far exceeds the end value. Your attempts to make that clock run may be unsuccessful. I would venture to say that movement has a poor chance of running and being reliable without extensive repairs.
If you are still interested in trying to revive your clock, I might be able to find a set of usable chains in my archives. I will supply those for the cost of postage if you give me an address. Do not post your address on this board but send it to me via a personal message through the board.
Best of luck with your clock,
Dick
 
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Willie X

Registered User
Feb 9, 2008
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That 451 weight set (in one box) and the chains (separately) are available from most supply houses. Note the lower priced set will have some kind of anodized (or plated) "brasslike" finish.
The real brass shells are available too but cost more and you will have to order the parts separately. That is, a set of 3 shells and 3 fillers. The fillers may need to be 'made up' by sawing off a longer weight, or adding some large washers to a lighter one. I usually shoot for two 5 pounders and one 7 pounder.
On DF's point, check for wear on the chime side. Strongly wiggle the 2nd wheel (chime) backwards and forwards while watching the two disc on the 3rd and 4th arbors. These disk are outside the front, on an extended shaft. If they jump around you will need bushing work or a new movement. These wear points are nearly always the first to go. So, I always check them first, no need to check any further, if these are bad.
Willie X
 
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Rockford's early high grade movements by Greg Frauenhoff