Howard #2 striker finish advise

Discussion in 'Tower, Monumental & Street Clocks' started by SamS, Feb 8, 2009.

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  1. SamS

    SamS Registered User
    NAWCC Member

    Feb 16, 2008
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    Hello,

    A couple of days ago I posted a request looking for advise on the finish of a tower clock I am restoring / repairing. I posted it under "Clocks / advise on tower clock finish". I wasn't sure if it would be better posted under tower clocks.

    Please take a look at the post at "clocks / advise on tower clock finish", (better pictures of the finish condition and much more information about what I am trying to accomplish) and let me know your thoughts about what you would do for a final finish on this clock.

    I really appreciate any comments and or advise.

    Thank you very much,
    Sam
     

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  2. gvasale

    gvasale Registered User
    NAWCC Member

    Mar 30, 2005
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    work in a machine shop, not as a machinist
    webster, Ma
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    Many of the "restored" clocks I've seen have had new paint. Could it be because the paint was really bad, or because it was lead paint?
    I know from reading descriptions of details automotive paints like Imron and other similar types are not uncommon. Somehow, I like original paint finishes unless the condition is very poor. Most clocks of this type I've seen tend to have a flat finish, or a slight gloss. I know of one clock which had visually sound paint that was coated with shellac. Now this is in a location without temperature control. I wonder if the shellac will pull the old paint up. Maybe a sealer if a non destructive can be found, maybe leave it alone. I might add you should be happy cleaning didn't remove the original paint, as sometimes it isn't too secure.
     
  3. SamS

    SamS Registered User
    NAWCC Member

    Feb 16, 2008
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    The reason the original paint and pin stripes are still present is because I "removed" the several layers of paint and grime in a similar fashion to that used on museum quality paintings. High magnification, bright light, very small areas with a combination of tools, abrasives, and solvents (and finger nails!). One layer at a time, and many hours. I believe what is left is pretty close to the condition when the first "repaint" job was done (with a brush over everything, including oil build up).

    The "green" is not realy consistant because some residue of the re-paint still exists. I'm not comfortable with continuing to try to remove it because every effort does take some away from the original (no matter how slow or careful it's done).

    Sam
     

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