The NAWCC Board of Directors is pleased to announce that Mr. Rory McEvoy has been named Executive Director of the NAWCC. Rory is an internationally renowned horological scholar and comes to the NAWCC with strong credentials that solidly align with our education, fundraising, and membership growth objectives. He has a postgraduate degree in the conservation and restoration of antique clocks from West Dean College, and throughout his career, he has had the opportunity to handle some of the world’s most important horological artifacts, including longitude timekeepers by Harrison, Kendall, and Mudge.
Rory formerly worked as Curator of Horology at the Royal Observatory, Greenwich, where his role included day-to-day management of research and digitization projects, writing, public speaking, conservation, convening conferences, exhibition work, and development of acquisition/disposal and collection care policies. In addition, he has worked as a horological specialist at Bonhams in London, where he cataloged and handled many rare timepieces and built important relationships with collectors, buyers, and sellers. Most recently, Rory has used his talents to share his love of horology at the university level by teaching horological theory, history, and the practical repair and making of clocks and watches at Birmingham City University.
Rory is a British citizen and currently resides in the UK. Pre-COVID-19, Rory and his wife, Kaai, visited HQ in Columbia, Pennsylvania, where they met with staff, spent time in the Museum and Library & Research Center, and toured the area. Rory and Kaai will be relocating to the area as soon as the immigration challenges and travel restrictions due to COVID-19 permit.
Some of you may already be familiar with Rory as he is also a well-known author and lecturer. His recent publications include the book Harrison Decoded: Towards a Perfect Pendulum Clock, which he edited with Jonathan Betts, and the article “George Graham and the Orrery” in the journal Nuncius.
Until Rory’s relocation to the United States is complete, he will be working closely with an on-boarding team assembled by the NAWCC Board of Directors to introduce him to the opportunities and challenges before us and to ensure a smooth transition. Rory will be participating in strategic and financial planning immediately, which will allow him to hit the ground running when he arrives in Columbia
You can read more about Rory McEvoy and this exciting announcement in the upcoming March/April issue of the Watch & Clock Bulletin.Please join the entire Board and staff in welcoming Rory to the NAWCC community.
Bring cracked, the broken gear should just slip off.Thanks very much, RC. I did find it on T/S as you said. Yes, you all helped me to repair a gear and it came out beautifully. Next question I suppose is how to get it off? Sorry for all of the hand holding, but I appreciate it very much.
The cracked pinion should be a friction fit on the arbor. It should spin with the arbor but not on the arbor. If you decide to get a new one, you will have to open up the hole a bit for a nice friction fit. If you try to press it on as is, it may crack again.Bangster, you are not kidding there. RC - Does the arbor stay right there where it is, attached to the plate? Does the new pinion get slid on or slid on and Loc-Tited there? I am not clear as to what should spin and what should stay stationary. Thanks a million.
The cannon pinion is tight on the center shaft and was originally pressed on far enough to partly compress the tension spring. when the cannon pinion cracks it no longer grips the center shaft and slips so it should slip off easily. The new replacement part will have a hole that is probably a bit undersized that will require broaching slightly to get a good fit, The "good fit" is tight enough that it will need to be forced on until the tension spring is partly compressed.Bangster, you are not kidding there. RC - Does the arbor stay right there where it is, attached to the plate? Does the new pinion get slid on or slid on and Loc-Tited there? I am not clear as to what should spin and what should stay stationary. Thanks a million.
It would help if you can provide a picture of the cracked part after you get it apart. Generally, I do not believe it practical to attempt to solder the actual crack. You face two issues with this repair - first is closing the crack so the spacing of the teeth remain uniform, second, securing the cracked pinion in place so the tension of the spring cannot cause it to move. I would not use Loctite for this repair. Generally the crack will close when the pinion is removed. You will want to broach it out so that it is a slip fit on the shaft (to prevent the crack from being forced open again). Then, while the assembly is still apart, slide back the spring retainer a bit so there will be no tension, then solder the damaged pinion to the shaft in its original position. Finally move the spring retainer against the tension spring until it is partly compressed....... hope for the best.Is this one of those situations where it might be okay to repair it as I did before (the solder and Loctite route)? My clock, my time, my doozie. Trouble is...the crack is different that the one before. This crack goes north and south as well as east and west. Hmmmm. What to do..what to do? RC's suggestion of replacement does seem appealing though.
That in, my opinion, is the preferred method (unless an original undamaged part is available) and is what I usually do.I have bushed the center of them and soldered the bushing into the gear. It's a lot of work, but very strong. A new gear is less work, and not too expensive. I keep one in stock, because it's a very common issue with Gilbert's.
That is correct and the one from Timesavers should be identical except you may have to broadh the inside diameter slightly to get it on....... As you said, it slipped off. But I did not expect it to have a sleeve (?) on one side. I hope the one from Timesavers is identical.
Yes, the little half-hour gizmo on the end of the arbor will just pry off and you can remove the arbor from the plate.Am I supposed to take the arbor off of the plate, if so, how?
No need to disassemble anything (except the broken gear). Make sure the tension washer and larger gear are in place then just press the new gear on from the front end. Press it on until you see it begin to compress the tension spring and you are done. When you press the gear on put a piece of hard wood under the pivot on the other end. A length of small copper or brass tubing that will slip over the shaft will help you press the gear on. You can use a vice or drill press to press it on. A hammer would work but if you get the gear on too far and flatten the tension spring it will be very hard to turn the minute hand when setting the clock. You don't want to bugger up the new gear, so a small washer between the gear and the driving tube is a good idea. Most important thing is judging whether and how much the new gear needs to be broached out. It has to be tight but it could bust if you get it too tight. Too loose and it wont stay in place. If you are using a tapered broach, open the hole just enough so the large end of the hole just wants to barely start on to the arbor and it should tighten up about right as the arbor passes through the small end of the broached opening. It is just something one has to experience and get the feel for unless you have some very precise measuring tools.It looks like a bugger to have to press that new pinion on and keep tight tension on that retainer on the underside at the same time. ........Do you disassemble the whole arbor assembly and start from scratch somehow?
Good question and while we can speculate that the cause is poor quality control, original fit too tight, original brass too hard or contained a defect, we will probably never know for sure. This problem is common with Ingraham and Gilbert models.What is the reason these crack so often? Is it just too stressed to begin with? And when replacing them what is the best way to avoid recreating that issue?
I was wondering if a slightly loser fit - still snug but not too tight - with a solder ring like the one you showed above might be a better solution? I am working a Gilbert mantle without an issue in the pinion but was wondering how to best repair one when it eventually comes up.Good question and while we can speculate that the cause is poor quality control, original fit too tight, original brass too hard or contained a defect, we will probably never know for sure. This problem is common with Ingraham and Gilbert models.
Solder isn't required and if the fit is correct there won't be any problem. Some here consider solder to be a "hack job", although I personally believe it does have its place for some repairs. The obvious problems with doing as you suggest, other than attracting the attention of the solder police, are that it will be difficult to disassemble in the future, and maintaining proper tension against the spring during the soldering process. The heat from soldering will likely expand the pinion and it could slip during the operation. Now if Lynsey should manage to broach the opening too large, then soldering would be an option to consider but I would first back off the collar that retains the tension spring. I've seen these that have been successfully soldered. including the example pictured.I was wondering if a slightly loser fit - still snug but not too tight - with a solder ring like the one you showed above might be a better solution? I am working a Gilbert mantle without an issue in the pinion but was wondering how to best repair one when it eventually comes up.
RC- I fully understand your instructions here. But I have a dumb, nagging question. Why is this method preferred over taking the tension washer and pin out, pressing the gear on, and reinstalling the washer and pin?Make sure the tension washer and larger gear are in place then just press the new gear on from the front end. Press it on until you see it begin to compress the tension spring and you are done. When you press the gear on put a piece of hard wood under the pivot on the other end. A length of small copper or brass tubing that will slip over the shaft will help you press the gear on. You can use a vice or drill press to press it on. A hammer would work but if you get the gear on too far and flatten the tension spring it will be very hard to turn the minute hand when setting the clock.
I almost always assemble movements with the back side up. I find it easier.This is one of those silly upside down plate movements where you have to put it back together backside up which is maddening for me.