How to Kieninger cable replacement?

Discussion in 'Clock Repair' started by mvalks, Jul 9, 2015.

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  1. mvalks

    mvalks Registered User

    May 30, 2015
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    I've starting collecting and doing or at least attempting simple clock repairs. I bought a Howard Miller Bennet model with a Kieninger movement marked K 12 116 cm on the back. The clock is in great shape and runs perfectly until it runs out of cable after a foot or so where someone broke the cables and reconnected them. I bought the clock for 100$ an have a very limited budget, I have purchased three 76 inch cables and want to replace the old shortened ones with functional ones. I have the movement out of the clock and would love any advice on the best way to replace the cables. It is not in my budget to go to a clock shop and I want to learn more about clock repair so I am going to give it a try. Are there any books that might help me or could someone describe the best way to go about this project.

    Thank you so much for any advice,

    Michael
     
  2. doug sinclair

    doug sinclair Registered User

    Aug 27, 2000
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    Your clock likely has a "stop works" on each of the three winding arbors. You will have to unwind all the cable from each of the three cable drums. This may necessitate your having to remove the stop works on each arbor. There should be a ferrule on each end of the three cables. These ferrules may be the same on both ends, or they may differ. You will need to determine which end of the cable is the drum end. Once the old cables are completely off wound, I suspect you may find that there is a "keyhole" aperture at one side of the drum for the ferrule on the cable end. From there, you need to install all three cables on the cable drums, and give each winding arbor one turn to retain the cable ends. Put the movement back into the case, put the pulleys on the cables, hook up the other end of the cables. Now, another challenge will be to re-fit the stop works properly. Not knowing in full detail how your stop works parts are designed, I can't tell you how to do this. But it will require trial and error, and ingenuity.

    Hopefully, someone will come along that can do a better job of describing what you need to do.
     
  3. mvalks

    mvalks Registered User

    May 30, 2015
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    Thank you! The ferrules are the same on both ends. I was concerned that I would have to separate the plates to do this but your explanation gives me much hope that it is simpler than it appears. I will be attempting this project on Saturday after work and let you know the results. Clocks are awesome and interesting I consider myself lucky to have found this as a hobby. Maybe more of a lifestyle I have collected 25 clocks in the last year, there are so many different kinds out there and sometimes people are literally giving them away to get rid of them.
     
  4. doug sinclair

    doug sinclair Registered User

    Aug 27, 2000
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    I hope my instructions apply to your particular Keininger movement. Many cable drive clocks have removable first wheel/cable drum assemblies. These vary. Some have a "C" clip on the back plate that holds the arbor in place. Most of these clocks require that you remove the stop works components from the arbor on the front plate, allowing the arbor to be pulled out, thereby allowing the first wheel and drum to drop out.
     
  5. harold bain

    harold bain Registered User
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    Do them one at a time, so you can watch the stopworks on the others and match it up to the existing drums.
     
  6. MARK A. BUTTERWORTH

    MARK A. BUTTERWORTH Registered User
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    Kieninger K series does not have removable arbors. Some have removable bushings which allow the entire drum to come out. A simpler way is to release the click on the drum without removing the stop works or the drum. The cable can be pulled out to the end and replaced.
     
  7. mvalks

    mvalks Registered User

    May 30, 2015
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  8. mvalks

    mvalks Registered User

    May 30, 2015
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    Which is the click I don't see a spring that could be pulled back like on a spring driven movement. I could remove the gear on the arbor or the other gear. The gear one the arbor has a circular compression ring that would likely be destroyed if I took it off, the other gear has a familiar c style compression ring, where would I buy the fully circular one if that is the one I have to take off? Thank you again for your help, I didn't know I could upload pics or I would have done so initially.
     
  9. mvalks

    mvalks Registered User

    May 30, 2015
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    Here is a pic of the back of the movement.
     

    Attached Files:

  10. doug sinclair

    doug sinclair Registered User

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    Your pictures indicate that the first wheels with the cable drums are removable. Two screws each on the removable bearing on both the the front end and back end of each arbor, and the arbor, wheel, and the drums should slide right out. Do them one at a time.
     
  11. mvalks

    mvalks Registered User

    May 30, 2015
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    Studying for a bachelor's in geoscience
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    Thank you for taking the time to help me. I put it back together and with equal cable showing one of the gears has a dot on two gears the other has a dot on one gear. I put the gear back on with the one dot between the two dots of the other gear, it is running fine and looks like it should run the full week. Thanks again!

    Michael
     

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