How to Disassemble an Ansonia "Crystal Regulator"?

[T.Cu]

Hi Everybody, I bought an Ansonia "crystal regulator" type clock recently and in a few days will start taking it apart.

It has a few body problems, like a loose top finial (with the head of the fastening bolt or some threaded rod nut behind the "ceiling" inside the crown of the case). I include a photo of the area of the ceiling of the case immediately over the movement. In it, you can see one screw head which I am guessing will have to come out to enter a cavity in the crown of the clock to hold the threaded rod or whatever's in there while tightening from above.

And, the front and rear doors don't seem to close right. It looks to me like someone put the front door on upside down at some point in this clock's life. The small hole for the little door knob make it look that way, comparing it to the one in back. (Which could be the "wrong" one, except that the rear door does screw in all the way, but the front knob doesn't screw in all the way unless I reverse its direction in the hole. Then it does. Besides, the hole has a different shoulder area on the inside than the outside of the door.

And it has a crack in the corner of one glass. I see tiny screws in the door frames which look like they'd come out to separate the door frame parts?

And, the movement has to come out for escapement pin/jewel repairs.

So how do these movements come out? I read one thread which said there was a screw on the bottom of it, the removal of which allowed the movement to twist out off some tabs. The screws which hold the movement's frame are easy to see, but would be tough to get, being at right angles to your screwdriver..

And how do you take these cases apart? Any things to avoid?

Thanks in advance for the wonderful help and advice!

 

[Karl Thies]

Remove the gong from the bracket with the two screws. Then remove the hands, and using a thin magnetic screwdriver remove the three screws which hold the movement to the face plate bezel. Using the magnetic screwdriver will allow you to remove and reinstall the screws without disassembling the case.

 

[T.Cu]

Hi Karl Thies, thanks for your response. I see about being able to get those three screws, seems you have to barely reach over the back movement plate to get them?
So after taking the hands off and gong off, and the three screws out, you pull out the movement but the outer ring of the dial, the part with the numbers, remains inside the case? And just the movement and inner aspect of the dial comes out?
If I need to I will post more pictures. Thanks again! Tim

 

[Carl Bergquist]

Your clock looks a lot like the "Oriel" in Tran Duy Ly. The top finial is a little different and we have not seen your pendulum. Nice Clock, 1914 per Tran. If you have door issues make sure you label front/back etc. The doors come completely apart and many have thin strips in the channels to stop rattling. Many door issues can be resolved by slightly turning the side posts and get good fit before tightening top and bottom screws. The side panels are not like the doors, they just have a top and bottom trim piece. They seem interchangeable but I would not count on that. On some of these I have reassembled them upside down with the last pieces going in were the two side panels of glass and then the bottom cast brass with those four screws. There are many posts on putting these things together and you will need a few pairs of cotton gloves. Again. nice clock and good luck.

 

[T.Cu]

Hi Carl Bergquist, That is interesting information and I thank you very much! I would not have thought of subtly twisting the side posts and I bet that is a very useful trick.
As to reversibility, I am onboard. So many times things that "should be reversible" are not on these old things.
I am happy that the doors come apart and will keep an eye out for the thin strips.
And ditto the side panel construction.
I hunted a little for old posts here about this, but will look harder now that I know there are lots of posts about the subject.
Your mention of the top finial is funny because earlier today I found a photo online showing the finial reversed, with the larger half on the bottom instead of on the top, and I do think that's the correct way. My clock seems just to have been put together by someone any which way.
I'll try to look up the Oriel online.
The key I'll need seems to be an American six, with a ~ 1.8mm f/s adjust arbor.
Thanks! Tim

 

[T.Cu]

Found it! Oriel it is!

 

[Carl Bergquist]

I didn't think of just turning the finial over. But you are right, it now looks correct.

 

[Karl Thies]

So after taking the hands off and gong off, and the three screws out, you pull out the movement but the outer ring of the dial, the part with the numbers, remains inside the case? And just the movement and inner aspect of the dial comes out?

Exactly, if you wish to remove the outer dial you must disassemble the case to get to the three screws on the bezel which hold the mounting blocks for the movement.

 

[Fitzclan]

There is usually a set screw at the bottom of the dial ring. After loosening that screw, the movement can be twisted to the right or left so that it can be released and pulled out from the outer ring which stays with the case to be removed later after removing the 4 nuts at the underside of the case.
It is best to have an extra set of hands when disassembling these as everything falls apart once the threaded rods are loosened.
A few rubber bands around the case will help keep the glasses from falling out and breaking. Once the bottom is off, the doors, and glass, the rest is straightforward but there is definitely a sequence that must be followed so write down the order as you disassemble and reassembly will be a snap. Hope this helps.

 

[Karl Thies]

There is usually a set screw at the bottom of the dial ring. After loosening that screw, the movement can be twisted to the right or left so that it can be released and pulled out from the outer ring which stays with the case to be removed later after removing the 4 nuts at the underside of the case.

Although this is true for most Seth Thomas, New Haven, Waterbury and most French Clocks, it is not applicable to Ansonia which have screws attaching the movement to the bezel.

 

[Fitzclan]

Good to know Karl. Haven’t had the pleasure of working on one yet.

 

[T.Cu]

There is usually a set screw at the bottom of the dial ring. After loosening that screw, the movement can be twisted to the right or left so that it can be released and pulled out from the outer ring which stays with the case to be removed later after removing the 4 nuts at the underside of the case

I have been researching photos online, and had seen what looked like this system on some clocks, plus what you'd said made it of interest. But I only had a regular screw down there, didn't look exactly like that kind of setup. So I am glad to have it straightened out (see below).

It is best to have an extra set of hands when disassembling these as everything falls apart once the threaded rods are loosened. A few rubber bands around the case will help keep the glasses from falling out and breaking. Once the bottom is off, the doors, and glass, the rest is straightforward but there is definitely a sequence that must be followed so write down the order as you disassemble

Fitzclan, Thanks for this! So helpful!

 

[T.Cu]

Although this is true for most Seth Thomas, New Haven, Waterbury and most French Clocks, it is not applicable to Ansonia which have screws attaching the movement to the bezel.

Thank you Karl Thies, so good to get some information as opposed to going in blind. I will be getting around to this when I can, and am looking forward to it. I will report back.