How do i release the main spring of this movement

[jerbro123]

Hi. How do I release the mainspring of this movement. This is my first time and I can't find a video that shows how to release this particular type.

 

[wow]

You must use a heavy duty let down tool. These springs very strong. They have clicks and click wheels similar to American movements. Wear gloves and goggles in case there is an explosion ( if spring breaks).

 

[roughbarked]

The clicks are on the backs of the first wheel. This is going to be tricky. Looks as if you'll need two people. One each side of the clock.
If you are attempting this on your own without special tools. The first step would be to wire up the mainsprings while they are as tightly wound as they are. Then put the winding arbor in a vice. From the back of the clock wind the arbor by turning the whole clock while manipulating and locking the click. Slowly and carefully allow the clock to turn as it unwinds down onto the wires.
If the mainsprings are already too tight to allow the ratchet wheel to get past one click. This will make it even more difficult.

Alternatively, place the clock in the vice and be ambidextrous.

 

[Dick Feldman]

That is an Asian made movement and is a hazard to work on, even for experienced clock repair people.
My suggestion is to put that aside (scrap it) and find a more reliable movement to learn on.
Should those springs get away, the movement may come apart and send the wheels flying. Much of the movement can become shrapnel. That movement is capable of cutting you and sending your blood across the room.
Just how I feel,
Dick

 

[gvasale]

Korean ...be extremely careful with the click spring. VERY delicate.
And therefore problematic from the few I have handled.

 

[roughbarked]

Speaking as one whom has had his blood both up the wall and across the ceiling.
It takes the smallest fraction of a second to get out of control.
By the way I did that after the mainsprings were wired up and only letting down onto the wire and the click slipped. The clock was a Sessions and it had a good go at attempting to slice my thumb off.

 

[Willie X]

First, let both springs down completely and pull those spreader plates from the lower corners of the movement. To play it safe, DO THIS ONE SIDE AT A TIME.

Then, with both nuts back on, you can let the springs down, just like in any other clock.

I would recommend using 16 or 17 guage soft iron wire (tie wire) to capture the springs. This will leave you more working room.

Also, don't capture the spring wound up to tight. I will try to post a photo of about what this should look like. Notice the captured spring's diameter is about 1/4" smaller than the diameter of the great wheel. Willie X

 

[Schatznut]

Lots of good advice from the veterans here. My knuckles hurt just thinking about it - please be careful!

 

[roughbarked]

Yes. It may be a good idea to set the clock running for a time to let some of the tension off the springs because at fully wound, and wired up, the clicks may not be able to get over one tooth of the ratchet.

 

[R. Croswell]

First, let both springs down completely and pull those spreader plates from the lower corners of the movement. To play it safe, DO THIS ONE SIDE AT A TIME.

Then, with both nuts back on, you can let the springs down, just like in any other clock.

I would recommend using 16 or 17 guage soft iron wire (tie wire) to capture the springs. This will leave you more working room.

Also, don't capture the spring wound up to tight. I will try to post a photo of about what this should look like. Notice the captured spring's diameter is about 1/4" smaller than the diameter of the great wheel. Willie X
View attachment 760952

That’s the way I do it. These springs are not extraordinarily powerful but they are quite long. The ones in this clock have a ridge rolled down the center for the length of the spring. After the spring is removed and the wire cut, it can expand to almost a long straight strip, be ready. If you follow the steps Willie described and make sure the springs are wired and let down before separating the plates, there is very little risk of an explosion, about the same as any other clock. Use care removing the wire. Approach with respect, not fear is what I think.

RC

 

[Dick Feldman]

I disagree on all points.
And—You want to let those springs down why?
That is a low-end movement. Probably the lowest of low.
Low quality materials, poor design, light gauge metal.
Especially the click system, which is what is supposed to protect you from a catastrophe.
If you ever get it back together, who will wind the thing?
Your spouse, a child, you?
That movement is perfectly capable of giving a blue thumbnail (at minimum) under good conditions.
Move on to something reliable and safe.
Dick

 

[roughbarked]

You do have a point. Many repairers will refuse to do them and offer a quartz movement replacement. This why I have boxes full of these movements rusting away in my shed.

 

[R. Croswell]

I disagree on all points.
And—You want to let those springs down why?
That is a low-end movement. Probably the lowest of low.
Low quality materials, poor design, light gauge metal.
Especially the click system, which is what is supposed to protect you from a catastrophe.
If you ever get it back together, who will wind the thing?
Your spouse, a child, you?
That movement is perfectly capable of giving a blue thumbnail (at minimum) under good conditions.
Move on to something reliable and safe.
Dick

I guess we can agree on a couple things, these movements are cheaply made and not a great movement for a beginner to learn on. As far as potential click failures go, I don’t see these being any more likely to fail than those in the American made Sessions movements (and some others). Children should not be allowed to wind any mechanical clock until they are old enough to understand safe winding procedures. Keep your guns locked and your car keys and clock keys out of reach. That’s what I think.

RC

 

[R. Croswell]

You do have a point. Many repairers will refuse to do them and offer a quartz movement replacement. This why I have boxes full of these movements rusting away in my shed.

Yes, a few bucks and the customer has a safe reliable clock vs a few hundred buck and they have a not so hot clock that will likely soon have additional problems.

RC

 

[Willie X]

I work on lots of Korean style movements. The springs are are .0155" thick, that's a little thinner than nearly all American clocks but they are around 155" long. That does make them harder to handle. They are more likely to 'get squirrely' on you when winding and unwinding in the winding machine, so be extra careful there. They are a different in several respects but not necessarly dangerous to work on, or to wind. No more, or slightly more, than many other clocks. IMOE

My thumbs are always blue.

Willie X

 

[Jess19721]

Speaking as one whom has had his blood both up the wall and across the ceiling.
It takes the smallest fraction of a second to get out of control.
By the way I did that after the mainsprings were wired up and only letting down onto the wire and the click slipped. The clock was a Sessions and it had a good go at attempting to slice my thumb off.

Good God every time I go to let down springs I start to sweat. I'm new and am hoping that in time I will get more confident but after reading that I doubt it, and perhaps that is a good thing. I have the luxury of pulling my husband away from the football or baseball game to make it a two person affair every time, and I'm still nervous, treating them like snakes ready to strike. I started with barreled springs and I've just started working with open springs/ spring clamps. I'm more nervous working with those, handling them like time bombs until I can get the top plate back down and pinned or screwed back on. Seemed like it would be so easy for one of those clips to get edged off.

 

[R. Croswell]

Good God every time I go to let down springs I start to sweat. I'm new and am hoping that in time I will get more confident but after reading that I doubt it, and perhaps that is a good thing. I have the luxury of pulling my husband away from the football or baseball game to make it a two person affair every time, and I'm still nervous, treating them like snakes ready to strike. I started with barreled springs and I've just started working with open springs/ spring clamps. I'm more nervous working with those, handling them like time bombs until I can get the top plate back down and pinned or screwed back on. Seemed like it would be so easy for one of those clips to get edged off.

Personally, I don't like the spring retainer clamps. The danger point is that they are not adjustable so one needs three hands to hold the movement, hold the clamp, and let down the spring. Once the spring is let down in the clamp it isn't likely to slip off, which means back to the spring winder to get it off, then when you attempt to completely unwind it, it can get squirrely as in post #15. Same thing when winding the spring for a barrel to slip on the retainer sleeve. Anytime that spring is not tied or clamped I still get nervous.

The advantage of using wire instead of a clamp is that you can let down the spring to the diameter you need, then apply the wire and twist tight enough to stay in place (two hands will be enough), and when you are ready to remove the wire, just grip the spring and snip the wire and slowly release the spring (always use face shield and/or safety glasses around springs). Gloves recommended, and you can put a bath towel over the operation if you are really nervous.

I don't especially like the Webster spring winder but I won't recommend one because I don't really like any of the commercially available ones. I built my own - tough and ugly but works.

RC

 

[bruce linde]

all i can offer is that not a single one of the movements from my weight-driven clocks has ever drawn blood. count me in the group that won't risk working on these movements.

 

[Kevin W.]

I dont want the liability of working on these Korean movements. bring me a well made Asian movement and i will work on it for a customer. Sorry i dont waste my time working on junky movements like these, you cant pay me enough.

 

[Willie X]

What's a "well made Asian movement"?? Ha

I've never been afraid of anything to do with clock repair.
If you only work on a few clocks per month and use reasonable safety measures, I don't think you should expect any kind of injury. Well, maybe a little ding every few years.

There is always the element of the unexpected but nothing anywhere like driving your car to th grocery store, or mowing your grass, eating at a restaurant with no cars in th parking lot, you know.

Such is life ... Willie X

Willie X

 

[Jess19721]

Personally, I don't like the spring retainer clamps. The danger point is that they are not adjustable so one needs three hands to hold the movement, hold the clamp, and let down the spring. Once the spring is let down in the clamp it isn't likely to slip off, which means back to the spring winder to get it off, then when you attempt to completely unwind it, it can get squirrely as in post #15. Same thing when winding the spring for a barrel to slip on the retainer sleeve. Anytime that spring is not tied or clamped I still get nervous.

The advantage of using wire instead of a clamp is that you can let down the spring to the diameter you need, then apply the wire and twist tight enough to stay in place (two hands will be enough), and when you are ready to remove the wire, just grip the spring and snip the wire and slowly release the spring (always use face shield and/or safety glasses around springs). Gloves recommended, and you can put a bath towel over the operation if you are really nervous.

I don't especially like the Webster spring winder but I won't recommend one because I don't really like any of the commercially available ones. I built my own - tough and ugly but works.

RC

After reading this I'm going to get some of the 17 gauge tie wire Willie mentioned. I do find nerve wracking holding the clamp against the spring until the spring expands enough to get captured in it. Trying to hold it just right with big gloved fingertips is a royal pain, I'm excited to switch to wire.

I also am coming to understand the Webster isn't the best choice. A clock maker in town was generous enough to sell me it for $40 so I'm very grateful to have it, but most how-to videos use the Ollie Baker so it has been a bit of a learning curve for me and there are certain limitations it has by its design. I'd like to have one like you describe RC, but I'm not handy in the shop.

 

[wow]

I work on lots of Korean style movements. The springs are are .0155" thick, that's a little thinner than nearly all American clocks but they are around 155" long. That does make them harder to handle. They are more likely to 'get squirrely' on you when winding and unwinding in the winding machine, so be extra careful there. They are a different in several respects but not necessarly dangerous to work on, or to wind. No more, or slightly more, than many other clocks. IMOE

My thumbs are always blue.

Willie X

View attachment 761013

I have an old ball joint remover (two prong fork) that is just the right width to retain those big springs when winding. No squirrel nesting.

 

[Mike Mall]

I have an old ball joint remover (two prong fork) that is just the right width to retain those big springs when winding. No squirrel nesting.

Clever use of a pickle fork. But it must be a really long fork.
These springs get really big before they fully relax.

 

[Wayne A]

This is when I stopped using spring retainers, the pictured clips were originally the same shape. Use only ty-wire now to retain open springs.

Wayne

 

[wow]

Clever use of a pickle fork. But it must be a really long fork.
These springs get really big before they fully relax.

Here’s what I’m talking about:

 

[Jess19721]

This is when I stopped using spring retainers, the pictured clips were originally the same shape. Use only ty-wire now to retain open springs.

Wayne

View attachment 761144

That sent chills down my spine!

 

[R. Croswell]

This is when I stopped using spring retainers, the pictured clips were originally the same shape. Use only ty-wire now to retain open springs.

Wayne

View attachment 761144

That must have been some spring. I’ve had the flat clamps give under tension, but never the round ones. There was a time when new springs came restrained with the round clips, so I have a bunch of them some place but don’t often use them. I guess they also learned to use wire, or perhaps wire was cheaper. Realistically, I don’t believe the solid round clips are likely to fail with springs 0.018” thick or less, but why risk it.

Everyone here probably knows this but in case there’s one who does not, #16 tie wire is heavier and stronger than #18 and you want tie wire that is made to be twisted. #16 is sold as rebar tie wire at building supply stores. #18 is available as suspended ceiling hanging wire. #16 is good for springs up to 0.016”
but #16 should used for springs 0.018” thick or more. Don’t over twist and use protection regardless of the restraint used. My advice is do not use zip ties for this.

RC

(Edit) Never use brass, copper, or aluminum. Always use steel wire.

 

[Wayne A]

That sent chills down my spine!

It got my attention!

Wayne

 

[Wayne A]

That must have been some spring. I’ve had the flat clamps give under tension, but never the round ones. There was a time when new springs came restrained with the round clips, so I have a bunch of them some place but don’t often use them. I guess they also learned to use wire, or perhaps wire was cheaper. Realistically, I don’t believe the solid round clips are likely to fail with springs 0.018” thick or less, but why risk it.

Everyone here probably knows this but in case there’s one who does not, #16 tie wire is heavier and stronger than #18 and you want tie wire that is made to be twisted. #16 is sold as rebar tie wire at building supply stores. #18 is available as suspended ceiling hanging wire. #16 is good for springs up to 0.016”
but #16 should used for springs 0.018” thick or more. Don’t over twist and use protection regardless of the restraint used. My advice is do not use zip ties for this.

RC

(Edit) Never use brass, copper, or aluminum. Always use steel wire.

Clamp held for a while, then it just jumped open yet still retained the spring. Quickly wrapped it with safety lock ty-wire. Safety lock wire is another option, its 302/304 stainless. I reuse the small bits left over on my spring winder to retain the ends of springs instead of hooks.

Wayne

 

[Mike Mall]

Here’s what I’m talking about:

View attachment 761153

I assume you hold the sides with that, to keep the spring from going wild. I have always used my gloved free hand to restrain them.
I own a couple of different sizes of these, and it seems that neither would be able to fully straddle one side, of a 31 day spring when it was fully opened up and relaxed.
I will have to give that a try next time.

 

[comet61]

I have used steel wire on occasion if it warrants it. I have several sets of the round (various diameters) clamps that I use if they'll fit without preloading against the stop pins or other parts. The other sets I have are the flat type which usually fits most of the time. I have to say, I have never had an incident of failure (knocking on wood now) from either type. I exercise caution with dealing with springs and there have been a few times where I was sweating a little. The only time that one of my flat sets were visually "straining", was when I was winding up (on Spring winder) a new set of 3/4x.017x120"'s. But with the sets I have now they handle between 11/16-3/4 x 96"-108" no problem. Of course I begrudge no one whatever method they deem fit and safe.

 

[Jess19721]

That must have been some spring. I’ve had the flat clamps give under tension, but never the round ones. There was a time when new springs came restrained with the round clips, so I have a bunch of them some place but don’t often use them. I guess they also learned to use wire, or perhaps wire was cheaper. Realistically, I don’t believe the solid round clips are likely to fail with springs 0.018” thick or less, but why risk it.

Everyone here probably knows this but in case there’s one who does not, #16 tie wire is heavier and stronger than #18 and you want tie wire that is made to be twisted. #16 is sold as rebar tie wire at building supply stores. #18 is available as suspended ceiling hanging wire. #16 is good for springs up to 0.016”
but #16 should used for springs 0.018” thick or more. Don’t over twist and use protection regardless of the restraint used. My advice is do not use zip ties for this.

RC

(Edit) Never use brass, copper, or aluminum. Always use steel wire.

RC thanks I am in the category of one who doesn't already know! I really thought the clamps "had" to be used to be safe, so I learned a great deal from this discussion.

Now that I have read this thread I am in the market for my go-to solution. Would this be a good option RC? .

Or

Wayne A mentioned, "Safety lock wire is another option, its 302/304 stainless"

 

[roughbarked]

I find that the clothes hanger wire is quite useful in this instance. Just remember that you cannot twist it much. A single twist is usually enough because the wire cannot stretch much.

 

[Willie X]

Tie wire is available at Lowes, Home Depot, True value, Minards, etc.

It will be in the masonry dept., usually right next to the rebar.

Willie X

 

[R. Croswell]

Would this be a good option RC?

Sorry, but all I see is an Amazon logo.

 

[Jess19721]

Tie wire is available at Lowes, Home Depot, True value, Minards, etc.

It will be in the masonry dept., usually right next to the rebar.

Willie

Excellent, its just called tie wire. It seems there are so many styles of wire out there, definitely don't want to grab the wrong thing for this application! Thank you!