you know it still surprises me that people are surprised to find plastic or acrylic glasses used in watches, when I started in the trade in the early 70s practically every new watch had acrylic glasses, this includes the Rolexes, Omegas, Longines, Certinas etc, etc, only makers like Patek would use paper thin sapphire crystals in their thin gold cases,
so that 1972 $1400 Rolex GMT master used an acrylic glass.
sure it scratches easily, it also polishes out easy too, a quick touch on the buffing wheel with some Crystal Kleer compound took most, bar the deep scratches out.
the 200 metre dives watches of the day used 3mm thick armoured acrylics, even when they came in every few years for a service with the glass scratched so badly you could hardly see through it and would quite often have cracks in the plastic and yet would still be watertight, the acrylic glass would survive underwater impacts with objects that will break a mineral glass.
the Japanese started making watches with mineral glasses around about then, then years later most makers followed, and the cost and manufacture of mineral crystals became cheaper and better that even the $5 cheapy has a mineral glass.
the use of plastic bottles for watch glasses is not a bad idea, although probably a bit thin for open faced watches, way back when wrist watches started to first show up, they would have glass in them, this was the same stuff as used in a window, soda glass, quite brittle, not a real problem in a pocket watch, but a wrist watch, one option was to use celluloid, a watchmaker would buy flat sheets, use a tool to cut a circle out of the sheet, this tool would cut a bevelled edge in the thin sheet, the idea was to cut the circle oversized, the Robur Glass tool was made to fit these glasses, the cup and dome dies would curve the flat circle and spring fit it in the bezel, the only real downside of celluloid it would go yellow after a while.
making a square glass, well one way is to take a flat metal block, drill a small hole in the centre, fit a short bit of tube so a hand air pump like a very large syringe or dust blower can be attached, a piece of the acrylic is placed on top, this needs to be 2-3 times the size the finished glass, make a die out out of 1 or 2mm sheet brass or aluminium to the size of the bezel fitting and clamp that over the acrylic, warm the whole lot in an oven until the acrylic is soft, then with the air pump puff the acrylic up to dome or curve it and hold that until it cools, then you only have to cut out and file it up to fit.
rectangular curved cases like in post #5, find something that matches the curve, warm a strip of acrylic and bend it around the former and let it cool.
the stuff I use is Shinkolite, made by Mitsubishi Rayon, easy to form, takes a great polish, thickness from 1mm
http://www.mrc.co.jp/shinkolite/technical-info/index.html