Help with replacing an Ansonia main spring.

[Dave 8038]

Hope I can find some help. I am repairing an Ansonia Kitchen Clock that belonged to my Great Grand Parents. It has never had any work done to it that I can see. Just periodic cleaning. I need some direction on changing out the main spring. The original has a partial crack about mid way in the winding. I have never repaired a clock. I am pretty good fixing things. I have re bushed the plates, and cleaned things up. The mechanism turns nice and smooth. Since this is likely the only clock works I will ever do, I don't have a winder or plans to buy one just for this project. How can I remove the present spring, and replace it using hand tools? The spring is in a collar to hold it, but I am not sure how it is removed from the post. Any advice is much appreciated.

 

[wow]

You must pry the inner coils open at the arbor and remove the arbor. Assuming you have a new spring, you will need to uncoil it and clean and oil it with a thin coating of oil. Then you will have to wind it back up somehow and clamp it so it can be installed back in the movement. While you have it apart the click springs, clicks and click wheels should be refurbished. All pivots should be polished.

 

[Dick Feldman]

Dave,
Is there a clock shop near you that would be willing to make the spring swap?
Springs hold a lot of energy and can be dangerous.
Spending some money to have that part of the job done might be a good investment.
The new, replacement spring probably will come to you compressed and held with binding wire. You may be able to install it in that condition and simply cut the wire after installation.
Do you think the two main springs have been wound nearly the same number of times since the clock was new?
I do.
What one spring has gone through so has the other.
If one is ready to fail…….
What do you think about replacing both springs?
It is possible to unwind/wind springs using the two plates of the clock movement if you are resourceful and have fairly strong hands.
If you try that, make sure you are wearing leather gloves for protection.
Just some thoughts
Dick

 

[Mike Phelan]

The click doesn't look too good ...

 

[Jeff T]

put it between the plates, put the loop on leg and wind it enough to to get the clamp off,carefully take the pressure off the click and unwind,reverse process to install

 

[shutterbug]

Yes, for open springs like this, you can use the plates as a winder. You could put just the first and second wheels in the movement, secure the second wheel so it can't move, and then wind or unwind the spring. You'll need to make a let down tool, and instructions can be found using search.
One necessary point though - if the clock has never been worked on, you are going to need to learn how to bush the plates. At the top of the forum, the "sticky" threads contain helpful information. If you don't do the necessary pivot polishing, bushing work and click work on an old clock like yours, you will be mostly wasting your time with the spring.

 

[Mike Phelan]

... and don't forget the click and its spring

 

[R. Croswell]

Dave, getting these mainsprings to release from the arbor can sometimes be challenging. In this case you are not planning to reuse the spring so no need to worry about damaging the spring. You can usually loosen the inner coils by holding the spring and turning the winding arbor backward. If you have three hands, pull on the spring as to remove it at the same time as you turn it backward and sometimes it will release and slip off. If it still does not come off (after loosening the inner coils by turning backward or with spade tip screwdriver(s)), Look along the arbor and spot the anchor pin that's holding the spring. Straddle the pin with the jaws of an old pair of long nose pliers, of a pair of small screwdrivers to hold the spring away from the pin, then use a larger screwdriver to pry the center coil off of the arbor.

Dick said, "What one spring has gone through so has the other. If one is ready to fail……. What do you think about replacing both springs"? There was a time when I would replace both springs for that reason. Now the often poor quality of available replacement springs makes that choice less clear. The question is, did the spring fail from metal fatigue due to years of normal use, or was it damaged, or was there an original defect in the metal of the failed spring. If the other spring is to be reused, give it a careful inspection and in in doubt throw it out. Also, I never guarantee springs - new or existing.

Is what I think.

RC

 

[comet61]

The click doesn't look too good ...

Actually...at first glance, it does seem "barely engaged" due to the dirt and grease, however, at close inspection, the click is indeed fully engaged in the ratchet. Of course after the mainspring is removed it would be prudent to inspect the integrity of the click and its spring as would be done on any disassembly inspection.

 

[Dave 8038]

Thank you all. I really appreciate the suggestions. I think I will put it back between the plates and un wind it. I made a winding tool from 1.5" dowel. I drilled and cut a slot to fit my winding key. It worked great to get the collar on the spring. I do have new clicks to install on both springs. Had not thought about changing the chime side spring.. Sounds like I need to do that. Thanks again.

 

[R. Croswell]

Thank you all. I really appreciate the suggestions. I think I will put it back between the plates and un wind it. I made a winding tool from 1.5" dowel. I drilled and cut a slot to fit my winding key. It worked great to get the collar on the spring. I do have new clicks to install on both springs. Had not thought about changing the chime side spring.. Sounds like I need to do that. Thanks again.

The click you have is better than any replacement that you might buy. Just clean everything and check that the rivet holding the click is not loose. Unwinding the spring between the plates could get you in trouble. I suggest that you wind it and remove the spring clip and replace it with tie wire (#16 rebar tie wire from any good size hardware store). Then remove the wheel from between the plates, and then remove the spring from the arbor while it is still tied. The wire can then be snipped while firmly gripping the spring with one hand and slowly releasing it. Always use face protection when working with springs. Best to use gloves and/or wrap the spring with a towel when snipping the wire.

RC

 

[Dave 8038]

I changed the main spring, thanks to all your advice. I've been avoiding this part, mostly uneasy about the spring tension. It wasn't bad at all. I basically clamped some tubing in my vice, set the arbor into the tubing, and carefully removed the clasp. It unwound in my hands quite uneventfully. Below is a fuzzy picture of the crack that could be seen on the spring edge. It is about 3/4 through the face of the spring. I will change out the chime spring also, Had not considered doing that. I think I will wind down the new springs in the plates to clean and oil them since they are not set like the originals. Can't wait to get this old girl back on the mantle, and listen to it's unique tic toc again.

 

[Willie X]

You're lucky on that one.

Usually cracks go directly to Kablooooee!

Clock repair people get to see a cracked spring from time to time but the average clock person may never see one.

Willie X