Haddon Golden Vision Replacement Motor

[steve102]

I need to obtain a replacement motor for a Haddon Golden Vision Model 70 clock. The existing motor has no identification marks but it looks like standard synchron type motor. Do you know what is the required RPM of the output shaft on the motor?

 

[shutterbug]

The existing motor should have that information printed on it somewhere. I assume the motor does not operate the minute hand directly, so you could count the teeth of the wheels and determine the rpm mathematically.
If you supply that info, or at least some pic's we can help you sort it out

 

[harold bain]

Hi, Steve, welcome to the message board. Shutterbug is right, the needed information will be on the motor (voltage, rpm's, direction it turns).
Timesavers carries parts for these clocks: www.timesavers.com
I am going to move this thread down to the electric clocks forum for better exposure.

 

[steve102]

Harold & Shutterbug,
Thank you for your replies and I've attached some pictures of the motor.
The markings on the top cover are:

125V 60 CYC
2.5W
WB 730
10-53
(UL)
E-22587
​

I looked on the Timesavers website but the only spares I could find were for the Jefferson Golden Hour, not the Haddon.
Ideally I would like to obtain a 220V 50HZ replacement motor so that the clock will work in the UK.

 

[harold bain]

Steve, you should try Meadows and Passmore, or Cousins, in the UK. Timesavers, or any American suppliers won't have your voltage or cycles per second. I believe your motor was made in October 1953, which probably also dates your clock. Look on our sticky of suppliers on top of the Clock Repair forum for supplier information.

 

[coldwar]

I hope I can offer some information which might help. This is a International Register motor assy. If you can coax it in to temporary operation, this will allow you to determine rpm at the shaft, and direction of rotation. Newer motors were made and sold under the Intermatic name, and have a different mounting configuration. These use a adapter plate which affixes like the original motor with two screws, and then the replacement motor affixes to plate in proper location for needed gear mesh. You might need to transfer the gear from your old motor to new. If the supply houses can't get you in to what you need on this basis, let me know, I still have a pretty big old stock of Intermatic motors.

Don't rule out repair of your existing motor. They are easy to service once you get over the fear of opening the gear case. Sometimes both brass bushings on the output shaft wear, easy to replace. Use 'Solder-Wick' to remove the solder around base -

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062744&CAWELAID=107594598

CW

 

[steve102]

I managed to get the motor working and at 110 V 50 Hz it rotates 5/6 RPM CW which corresponds with 1 RPM at 60 Hz according to my calculations.

I've sourced a 50 Hz 500 RPM CW motor and 1:500 gearbox combination to give the required 1 RPM drive. For safety reasons I decided to go for a low volatge 12V motor with a separate mains powder adaptor.

I'll keep you posted on progress.

 

[steve102]

The clock is now running and keeping good time. I fitted a Saia UDS1 12v motor with UDG 500:1 gearbox which has the same dimensions as the original motor. The only issue is the motor runs very hot although I did read in other threads that this is normal for some clock motors.

The clock is missing it's baseplate so I wondered if anyone else with a Haddon Golden Vision Model 70 would be king enough to post a scaned image of the underside so I can make a replacement.

 

[912lancelot]

hi- i am also looking for the haddon golden vision motor -- mine humes, but the small bottom gear does not turn. any ideas
bill
423-240-0692

 

[david1k]

Steve, I also need the same motor for my Haddon Golden Vision Model 70 Clock. Do you know where I can find one?

 

[a novice]

For both 912lancelot and David1k and others whom may be interested,
I would just Very clean them as long as they either 'humm' our you have continuity with the wires. the motor cover should just 'pop off' with a carefully placed small screwdriver blade revealing the stator windings and the rotor; since the pictures didn't show a side shot I believe the motor cover is just 'snapped' in place and should come off with care.. Keeping the wire insulation out of the way, Hand clean with a small brush and Ultrasonic cleaning fluid and carefully blow dry with canned air. It may take a couple of times to remove all the 'gummy' 50 plus year old lubricant.

As for the gear case, do not try and disassembly it unless absolutely necessary because, from my experience with a similar motor, the reduction gear shafts are mounted in two very thin Micarta plates that are very brittle and if mishandled would break. From the picture I believe the hole in the cover place is the key in that all your gear cleaning will be through that hole. As you did with the motor, use the Ultrasonic cleaning fluid, but use a syringe or an eye dropper, and insert one or two syringe or an eye dropper full into the gear case. Put your finger over the hole and carefully shake the unit for a few minutes and then drain the fluid. It most likely will take several times before the old lubricant will dissolve and flush out.

To test for your success, connect the two motor leads to a power source and the drive gear should turn. Due to the gear train gearing you Cannot turn the drive gear and expect it to rotate. However, and with the power Disconnected, you could very carefully rotate the rotor, then the drive system is in the proper sequence and you should see drive gear rotate. Remember, drive gear RPM is very low. one or two RPM's, so I slip marked (black marking pen) the drive gear to check for rotation.

The unit should work as per the previous paragraph describes?? I would again clean the gear case several more times and then carefully blow dry with canned air. Since I do not know the motor orientation when mounted, but would guess that the hole is 'up' whereas the lubricant won't run out I would use clock oil to lubricate; the unit does not need to be filled to the bottom of the hole because as the gears turn they will self-lubricate the gear above by the oil being carried by the gear teeth. Remember, an 'heavy' lubricant will slow down the motor due to the viscosity of the lubricant.

As a note - you may find the ancient lubricant doesn't easily dissolve/remove with Ultrasonic cleaning fluid, the only other cleaning fluid I know of that does is car gas which brings up a Few safety concerns. Some of the other members may have a different suggestion, but I have found few that work with fully dissolving old grease. 91% Isopropyl Alcohol kinda does, but the task is to remove 'all' from the gears. For the most part, old grease in the 'corners' doesn't effect the gears turning.

As an aside, I found at least two clock motor repair 'sites' on the web by Goggl'ng 'electric clock motor repair' or something similar. That is for both similar clock motors as pictured or the round motors "GE" style; GE bought out the original company back in the 1930's if I remember correctly. My information is on my other computer of which is not accessible at the moment. lol

I do hope the above comments are useful.
Regards,
A Novice

 

[a novice]

The clock is now running and keeping good time. I fitted a Saia UDS1 12v motor with UDG 500:1 gearbox which has the same dimensions as the original motor. The only issue is the motor runs very hot although I did read in other threads that this is normal for some clock motors.

The clock is missing it's baseplate so I wondered if anyone else with a Haddon Golden Vision Model 70 would be king enough to post a scaned image of the underside so I can make a replacement.

Steve, since you mention that the motor runs hot at 12 Volts, I would wonder if 12 Volts was not a typo and it should have been 120VAC
The ones I found on ebay (USA) were 110/220 VAC and appear to come from many uses. If the one you found was multi voltage, you need to make sure which wires you are using for 120 VAC. In my opinion, electric of mechanical motors were never, and are not supposed to run hot, or very hot. Something is wrong - wrong voltage or drag in the gear train causing the heating. However, these motors do not develop enough torque to overcome a dragging gear train, they would simply stop.
Just some thoughts.
Regards,
A Novice