If you ever scrap out a Hermle movement with a floating balance in it, SAVE the balance! It is probably the best balance made for the Hermle movements, and is no longer being made. The new one isn't as frictionless as this one is, and not as well-made. Here are a few guidelines and pointers on adjustments after rebuilding one of the Hermle floating balance movements.
As I have said before, certain things normally do not change when repairing a movement. I have seen some posts about this unit that talk about punching out the stop pins for either increasing or decreasing the time adjustments on the floating balance. You have no reason to do that, and I will show you why. If you do those things, you're not really attacking the problem the right way, and you are fudging it, like many shade-tree mechanics do the cars they work on.
If you find you cannot increase your time adjustment or decrease it enough to have the clock run correctly and on time, and reached its limits, DON'T punch the pins out. Look at picture #1 below.
My tweezers are pointing to a stop tab on the left side where the fork comes to rest. Now look at the next photo:
My tweezers are pointing to the right side of this also. What's my point? Adjustment of these two pins, either in, or out increases the beat amplitude, making it run faster (closer together) or further apart, run slower. These two tabs should only be adjusted with smooth-jaw pliers, to avoid scratch marks on the unit. This should be a last resort repair, if previous + or - adjustments do not work. And, it only takes a little bit of movement to adjust these tabs, don't get crazy. Lastly, my tweezers are pointing to a brass tab at the top of the coil, which, when adjusted left or right, puts the balance into beat.
Using your Microset clock timer, you can put this unit and movement into beat on the "Beat error" setting of your timer by rotating this tab either left or right.
I hope this helps..............doc
As I have said before, certain things normally do not change when repairing a movement. I have seen some posts about this unit that talk about punching out the stop pins for either increasing or decreasing the time adjustments on the floating balance. You have no reason to do that, and I will show you why. If you do those things, you're not really attacking the problem the right way, and you are fudging it, like many shade-tree mechanics do the cars they work on.
If you find you cannot increase your time adjustment or decrease it enough to have the clock run correctly and on time, and reached its limits, DON'T punch the pins out. Look at picture #1 below.

My tweezers are pointing to a stop tab on the left side where the fork comes to rest. Now look at the next photo:

My tweezers are pointing to the right side of this also. What's my point? Adjustment of these two pins, either in, or out increases the beat amplitude, making it run faster (closer together) or further apart, run slower. These two tabs should only be adjusted with smooth-jaw pliers, to avoid scratch marks on the unit. This should be a last resort repair, if previous + or - adjustments do not work. And, it only takes a little bit of movement to adjust these tabs, don't get crazy. Lastly, my tweezers are pointing to a brass tab at the top of the coil, which, when adjusted left or right, puts the balance into beat.

Using your Microset clock timer, you can put this unit and movement into beat on the "Beat error" setting of your timer by rotating this tab either left or right.
I hope this helps..............doc