Gruen ladies Wristwatch help

Discussion in 'Wrist Watches' started by Jskirk, Jul 12, 2019.

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  1. Jskirk

    Jskirk Registered User

    Aug 6, 2018
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    Hello, I have had this watch for a while, but now with my obsession with Pocketwatchs I decided to open this and see whats inside. Nice looking movement, but I have no idea how to date this or tell what grade it is. My guess is its from around 1930 by the style.
    Thanks for any help.
    Jay

    20190712_151042.jpg 20190712_151102.jpg 20190712_151118.jpg 20190712_151125.jpg
     
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  2. Barney Green

    Barney Green Registered User

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    #2 Barney Green, Jul 12, 2019
    Last edited: Jul 12, 2019
    Hi Jay,

    nice Cartouche which you are showing here! The Cartouches have been the most popular ladies watches in the 20s.
    Yours is referred to as the Cartouche 212. Back in the 20s Gruen did not give its watches sales names, so they were ordered by a catalog number which in this case I reckon it being 212.

    upload_2019-7-12_22-45-35.png

    The gold filled case was made by Wadsworth like most of the gold filled Gruen cases at that time. The 15 jewel movement came from Aegler, which was one of the preferred external suppliers (Fred Gruen was member of the board), it is a caliber 835, which is the sames as Rolex caliber 200. Serial numbers of both case and movement tell me that the watch was built late 1927, early 1928. I do not think that it has been available much longer than these 2 years at a sales price of $35 (about entry price level for a Gruen at that time).
    OS-72 is the style number which is kind of a crystal order number whereas OS stands for "odd shaped",

    Barney
     
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  3. Barney Green

    Barney Green Registered User

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    sorry, double posted..
     
  4. roughbarked

    roughbarked Registered User

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    Is it a Rolex 200 movement rebranded as Gruen 835?
    1924- (Aegler)
    Alpina Gruen Gilde 1929-1937
    bimetallic screw balance, Breguet hairspring
    identical movements Alpina 835, Gruen 835, Rolex 200
    manufacturer: Aegler (Rolex)

    Oops didn't see the above post.
     
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  5. Jskirk

    Jskirk Registered User

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    Thankyou for the information, very interesting, is there any info on how many of these were made. Also this is not running, are there watch maker's, or jewelers or hobbyists that restore them. Thanks
     
  6. Barney Green

    Barney Green Registered User

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    It is almost impossible to say how may of a specific model Gruen made. When ownership of the company changed in 1958 the new owners destroyed the company records, so all the info is lost. Cartouche 212 is not a mainstream model so my best guess that they probably made 2000 of them.
    Can't recommend an US watch maker as I am located overseas...
     
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  7. Jskirk

    Jskirk Registered User

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    Thankyou, I think opening this watch just opened up another can of worms.
     

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