Glue type for watch dial

[fuzz1]

Hi
Just wondering if i can use gorilla glue to stick back parts on a watch dial. Not the super glue but the normal gorilla glue

 

[roughbarked]

Explain which parts?
There are many dials which have everything glued on. I've successfully used superglue. No glue is forever but the trick is to get the glue to set before the part moves. I've not heard great raves about gorilla glue and thus haven't used it. Epoxy works but again you need to ensure that nothing moves before it sets.
Good dials have all the numerals riveted on or are fitted with pins in holes before gluing. With such dials a slight chamfering of these holes on the underside will then allow you to rivet the pin/s so that no glue is required.

 

[gmorse]

Hi fuzz1,

Not the super glue but the normal gorilla glue

Gorilla glue expands as it sets, so you have to clamp things tightly or you'll have trouble.

Regards,

Graham

 

[James Wrobel]

I use UV glue. It gives me all the time I need to set the parts, then it sets in an instant while I hold the parts together.

jjw

 

[Mk2]

I use neutral cure silicone sealant (not the one that smells like vinegar).

Why, because it doesn't emit vapour (like superglue), doesn't tarnish parts (like many acid organic glues), or expand (like many polyurethane based glues do).

And, don't forget that one day, someone will want to remove the dial again for servicing. So it has to be relatively easy to separate without damaging anything. Dials are a bit fragile. Silicone is stretchy, so allows a thin razor blade to get in to cut it off effortlessly.

Only downside is that it takes at least 24h to fully cure.

 

[Bernhard J.]

Googling the phrase "Gorilla Glue" gives me a canabis product as the first hits ...

 

[Mk2]

Gorilla glue must have a different meaning in Germany...

 

[roughbarked]

I use neutral cure silicone sealant (not the one that smells like vinegar).

Why, because it doesn't emit vapour (like superglue), doesn't tarnish parts (like many acid organic glues), or expand (like many polyurethane based glues do).

And, don't forget that one day, someone will want to remove the dial again for servicing. So it has to be relatively easy to separate without damaging anything. Dials are a bit fragile. Silicone is stretchy, so allows a thin razor blade to get in to cut it off effortlessly.

Only downside is that it takes at least 24h to fully cure.

Do you stick your dials to movements with silicone?

 

[Skutt50]

And, don't forget that one day, someone will want to remove the dial again for servicing.

I got the impression it was markers ON the dial that was loose and not the entire dial.

 

[Mk2]

Ah, if the markers, that's an entirely different kettle of fish.

Then I'd probably go PVA, as it's easy to clean up any mess with water. And it sticks just about everything, not perfectly, but good enough for very lightweight components.

roughbarked I only stick dials on if they're not designed for the movement, or if the pins have broken off.

 

[roughbarked]

I know which dials you stick on and I am aware that it appears more and more often. However, it is really only barely effective in the lighter quartz watches. A movement with any weight in it can easily move the dial. After all, they can shear dial feet off.

It really isn't a wise move.

 

[Mk2]

Yeah, 100% agreed. After all that little metal disc usually supports the whole movement from jigging around (as well as a movement ring and mounting screws). But I like to think of my silicone glue as additional shock protection... haven't had one accidentally separate yet. Good enough to glue a toilet, so it's good enough for a watch in my books...

 

[roughbarked]

24 hours is plenty of time for anything to go wrong. I'm not knocking your skills at application and clamping but it is not good advice to be tossing around.

Personally, I'm not going to enjoy cleaning the watch with silicone in the works.

 

[karlmansson]

Good enough to glue a toilet, so it's good enough for a watch in my books...

I must say, the only term that comes to mind from your description is “bad practice”. Don’t glue dials to movements.

 

[everydaycats]

Hi
Just wondering if i can use gorilla glue to stick back parts on a watch dial. Not the super glue but the normal gorilla glue

I read through the post and looks like you want to stick the dial to the movement? Not good practice. Dial Dots or even stick on dial feet are better than glue. I stopped buying almost anything at auction that is of recent vintage such as Seiko etc because almost all are sourced from places that uses any method possible to get a watch sold and most glue dials. Those bad practices has almost destroyed a good thing for me. So, as you can guess I am totally against using glue.
Regards

 

[roughbarked]

Our customers were quite happy to be told that their dial will have two holes drilled in it and the new dial feet would be riveted on and that we'd do the very best we could to make this as little noticeable as possible.

However, this has sidetracked a bit from the original topic which was how to reattach numerals. Which by the way on good Seikos etc, are able to be riveted rather than glued.

 

[fuzz1]

Hi
My apologies for wrongly expressing myself.

In fact the "hour marks on a dial" got detached. I wanted to glue them back.

Gorilla glue is just a make I found on the Cousins website. I know there are special glues for the hour marks but I don't have those at hand.

Thanks again

 

[gmorse]

Hi fuzz1,

I think you need a glue with a slower setting time that allows you to place the markers precisely. The Gorilla glue needs clamping while it sets, which would make this difficult. PVA would work and so would one of the quick-setting epoxy adhesives.

Regards,

Graham

 

[Skutt50]

A problem when gluing markers is that when glue is applied on the dial side it tends to squeeze out under the marker. This can be hard to remove without damaging the dial surface. I try to apply a small amount of glue glue from the back when there are some pins going through the dial.

 

[roughbarked]

A problem when gluing markers is that when glue is applied on the dial side it tends to squeeze out under the marker. This can be hard to remove without damaging the dial surface. I try to apply a small amount of glue glue from the back when there are some pins going through the dial.

Did you not consider riveting these pins? It really does work better and last longer than any glue.

 

[Skutt50]

Did you not consider riveting these pins?

I did, but thought it would be a bad idea since I would have to support the front surface of the index/number against something when riveting from the back. I was concerned that this may cause some damage to the fragile front of the index/number.

How do you support the index when riveting?

 

[Mk2]

So here's my question... If you want to attach a ceramic/glazed or even a modern finished dial to a different movement - the pins obviously don't line up - how to do it? Using epoxy to glue pins to the back of a dial I find isn't strong enough: a bit of flexing and they come away.

Stupid example- attach a new aluminised glossy Seiko dial to an AS movement... how would you do it? "I wouldn't" is not an acceptable answer here! You have to! It's the law!

Riveting works, when you can hide it behind a dial marker (assuming they're detachable), but I really don't like drilling through a dial. The result is always obvious to the bare eye and ruins the face IMO. And the dots are never symmetrical or square.

That's why I use silicone. It works, holds in most "abusive" situations and is relatively easy to remove.

 

[Skutt50]

If you want to attach a ceramic/glazed

Can't answer for all types of dials but on a cermic dial one can clean the back to access the base cupper(brass metall and solder cupper dial feet. I have done it on a few pocket watches but the difficult part is to get the dial feet to sit in the correct place. A small misalignment and the dial does not fit!

I am lucky to have some assortments of replacement dial feet and some have rather big heads. Possibly these could be glued on the back of a heat sensitive dial.

I want to remember some youtube videos from long ago where spot welding was used for dial feet attachment. I have never tried it and I have doubts that all dials can handle the heat.......

 

[karlmansson]

So here's my question... If you want to attach a ceramic/glazed or even a modern finished dial to a different movement - the pins obviously don't line up - how to do it? Using epoxy to glue pins to the back of a dial I find isn't strong enough: a bit of flexing and they come away.

Stupid example- attach a new aluminised glossy Seiko dial to an AS movement... how would you do it? "I wouldn't" is not an acceptable answer here! You have to! It's the law!

Riveting works, when you can hide it behind a dial marker (assuming they're detachable), but I really don't like drilling through a dial. The result is always obvious to the bare eye and ruins the face IMO. And the dots are never symmetrical or square.

That's why I use silicone. It works, holds in most "abusive" situations and is relatively easy to remove.

Soldered dial feet have been the traditional way to do it. There are soldering machines for the purpose that apply heat extremely locally.

But mostly: no, I wouldn’t attach a Seiko dial to an AS movement. Dials and movements are made to fit each other.

 

[roughbarked]

As for gluing dials, There are available, dial spots. They come on a sheet. I also found that double sided tape can be cut into small squares. None of which are as ideal as proper dial feet. However, in modern quartz watches they can and do work quite well.
If one doesn't like the riveted dial foot look, then lash out and buy a replacement dial. There must be millions of them out there. I have boxes full of dials for the older movements.

 

[Mk2]

I've made my own dials using a laser cutter. I still can't find a perfect solution to attaching it to an old movement though. I like the brand new style watch, old movement combination... Copper sheet is the most difficult (but easy to solder pins to).

Oh, and I've tried spot welding. It does work- sometimes, but if it doesn't make the paint peel, or the surface tarnish, it actually can warp the thin brass or stainless steel disk.

And am i the only one who keeps experimenting? Fixing and restoring is one thing, but making...?

 

[roughbarked]

You make your dial and get it right, then you put the paint on.