Getting started

[GRHunter]

Technically, I am still getting ready to get started. As my initial starting point I bought the online clock repair course by Bob Tascione. I wanted to see the process and at least have a basic understanding before buying any tools. As I have mentioned in a previous post I have been doing pocket watch repair for a while now. I know that the videos are aimed at novices and that they cover only the most basic concepts. But after watching all the clock repair videos I must admit that everything looks very doable.

With that being said, I want to confirm my impression from the videos that replacing bushings is a fairly common task. The reason that I ask is that I am looking at purchasing a Bergeon bushing tool. If replacing bushings is something that I should expect with most repair projects then it seems to me that it would make sense to have a bushing tool machine. I don't mind spending the money, but I don't want to buy one and have it sitting on shelf gathering dust though. I am lucky in that it looks like I will only have to buy just a few tools to get started. The only other thing I will be buying is a main spring winder.

 

[R&A]

I personally would go with the KWM. You will find that bushings are cheaper and so is the machine. And if you do. They have a pivot plate available. It allows you so you can measure the bushings by inserting the pivot end. The size bushing is on a chart. I have one of these. It takes the fun out of having to measure your pivot and go to a chart and find the one you need. And then converting from metric to standard. < such fun. Plus the parts for a KWM machine are cheap to buy also. I have rebuilt mine twice in 30 years of owning it.

H/C

 

[Brian Smith]

You are right on both counts. Although I am capable of hand bushing, I use my bushing machine regularly. A spring winder is not really necessary of all you plan to tackle are open loop end clocks. It is a "must" if you are going after barrel springs and want to remove them correctly. I would expect that every other clock that comes across my bench needs bushings. The tools I seem to use the most are electricians long screwdrivers and a "Bell System" long nose or chain nose pliers.

 

[hookster]

It all depends on how often you will be re-bushing clock plates. I am a hobbyist who has been at this, off and on, for about 20 years now. I tear down, service and repair maybe 15-20 movements a year and do all my bushing work by hand. The machines for doing this cost, give or take, about $800, and I could never justify this expense. Doing it by hand is really not that difficult if you have the right broaches and reamers, and follow the instructions (available on this Forum) as to how to center and insert/secure them correctly. As for a mainspring winder, I use the Joe Collins type which is very economical for beginners and hobbyists. As stated by others, it is really a must have for most barreled mainsprings, and makes the servicing work on loop end ones much easier and faster.

 

[GRHunter]

I personally would go with the KWM. You will find that bushings are cheaper and so is the machine. And if you do. They have a pivot plate available. It allows you so you can measure the bushings by inserting the pivot end. The size bushing is on a chart. I have one of these. It takes the fun out of having to measure your pivot and go to a chart and find the one you need. And then converting from metric to standard. < such fun. Plus the parts for a KWM machine are cheap to buy also. I have rebuilt mine twice in 30 years of owning it. H/C

I assume that you are referring to using hand tools. The KWM bushing machines I just looked at are double the cost of the Bergeon that I was looking at. Being a novice I would think that I will obtain better and faster results with a machine than doing it by hand. For me the most frustrating part of of starting out repairing watches was turning simple repairs into major repairs because of lack of skill and knowledge. So I would like to take every opportunity to avoid that frustration with my transition to clock repair.

 

[harold bain]

There is nothing wrong with using a Bergeon bushing machine. Many of us do, myself included. The machine allows for more accurate work, ensuring that you are making a hole that is perpendicular to the movement.

 

[hookster]

Faster results, yes, better results, I'm not so sure, especially for a beginner.

I assume that you are referring to using hand tools. The KWM bushing machines I just looked at are double the cost of the Bergeon that I was looking at. Being a novice I would think that I will obtain better and faster results with a machine than doing it by hand. For me the most frustrating part of of starting out repairing watches was turning simple repairs into major repairs because of lack of skill and knowledge. So I would like to take every opportunity to avoid that frustration with my transition to clock repair.

 

[GRHunter]

You are right on both counts. Although I am capable of hand bushing, I use my bushing machine regularly. A spring winder is not really necessary of all you plan to tackle are open loop end clocks. It is a "must" if you are going after barrel springs and want to remove them correctly. I would expect that every other clock that comes across my bench needs bushings. The tools I seem to use the most are electricians long screwdrivers and a "Bell System" long nose or chain nose pliers.

Thanks Brian, this makes sense.

 

[shutterbug]

If your goal is to get into the business aspect of repairing clocks and watches, then by all means get the tools you need. A spring winder and a bushing machine will pay off in time saved in a big way. All bushing machines can be adapted to either KWM or Bergeon bushings. Most of us have a favorite, but keep some of the other on hand in case there's a prior bushing that can be removed and a new one of the same type inserted. I'd say that most clocks that come across my bench need at least some bushing work, and many need a lot. Another down-the-road consideration would be an ultrasonic cleaner (don't go cheap, you'll regret it) and a lathe - not necessarily in that order Among the essentials would be a staking set (for the hollow punches) and a crows foot ... and you'll need a bench block or two as well. You'll often use smooth jawed pliers and strong (not the cheapies) tweezers, pivot setters, movement holders and several test stands. Mainspring clamps are very handy, but good wire will get you by to start. A mini-torch butane torch and some 50/50 solder will also be a valuable addition when the need arises.

 

[Kevin W.]

For me i bought a lathe as i can do bushings by hand, it may not be as accurate as a machine, but i cant pay out 800 dollars and justify it for less than 10 clocks in a year.

 

[hookster]

Yes, I agree Kevin. I shelled out $600 for a used lathe, plus accessories, for pivot polishing/replacement and some rudimentary machining and it was money very well spent.

For me i bought a lathe as i can do bushings by hand, it may not be as accurate as a machine, but i cant pay out 800 dollars and justify it for less than 10 clocks in a year.

 

[Kevin W.]

I bought my Taig lathe used, i paid about that much for all the accesories i got for it. I am old school and was taught to do jobs by hand first then do it on a machine. I believe hand skills are very important to have and to learn.

 

[Rob P.]

Bushing a movement can be done by hand. I've done it that way for awhile now. Bergeon uses a custom reamer for each of their bushing sizes but a 2/0 straight flute tapered reamer can be used if you are careful. You will also need a set of reamers and burnishers for the bushing ID's.

If you want a machine for doing bushings, there are other alternatives to the Bergeon. KWM and Keystone also both make good bushing machines but a mini mill is capable of better accuracy than the bushing machine and has other shop uses that the bushing machine can't do.

A lathe is essential for anything other than pivot polishing and bushing work. With some ingenuity you can use your lathe as a mainspring winder too! A Unimat can be converted from a lathe to a mill and back which gives it a versatility that a watchmakers lathe doesn't have.

Other bench and hand tools can be bought as needed but you will need a few home made tools. Things like a hook for grabbing and pushing arbors when assembling to get pivots into their bushings. I also have a rod with a slot in the end for tweaking spring ends to get them to go past arbors and shafts while assembling.

A nut driver handle and some 1/4" drive sockets to fit the plate nuts are also handy. As is a Dremel tool.

I would say an Ultra Sonic cleaner is a must have. As is a good cleaning solution. Your watch cleaning equipment & stuff may work for this but you really need a cleaner that will handle the big movement plates if you are going to do this for money.

And, don't forget about reference books!

 

[GRHunter]

What books would you recommend for a novice like myself?

Bushing a movement can be done by hand. I've done it that way for awhile now. Bergeon uses a custom reamer for each of their bushing sizes but a 2/0 straight flute tapered reamer can be used if you are careful. You will also need a set of reamers and burnishers for the bushing ID's.

If you want a machine for doing bushings, there are other alternatives to the Bergeon. KWM and Keystone also both make good bushing machines but a mini mill is capable of better accuracy than the bushing machine and has other shop uses that the bushing machine can't do.

A lathe is essential for anything other than pivot polishing and bushing work. With some ingenuity you can use your lathe as a mainspring winder too! A Unimat can be converted from a lathe to a mill and back which gives it a versatility that a watchmakers lathe doesn't have.

Other bench and hand tools can be bought as needed but you will need a few home made tools. Things like a hook for grabbing and pushing arbors when assembling to get pivots into their bushings. I also have a rod with a slot in the end for tweaking spring ends to get them to go past arbors and shafts while assembling.

A nut driver handle and some 1/4" drive sockets to fit the plate nuts are also handy. As is a Dremel tool.

I would say an Ultra Sonic cleaner is a must have. As is a good cleaning solution. Your watch cleaning equipment & stuff may work for this but you really need a cleaner that will handle the big movement plates if you are going to do this for money.

And, don't forget about reference books!

 

[harold bain]

I would recommend Philip Balcomb's two books, The Clock Repair Primer, and The Clock Repair First Reader, as good basic clock repair books for the beginner.

 

[Rob P.]

I would add Conover's "Chime Clock Repair" and Terwillinger's "400 day clock repair guide" books to the reference shelf.

 

[hookster]

All of Steven Conover's books are very good. In particular 'Striking Clock Repair Guide' and 'Chime Clock Repair'. Also, I would agree with Harold about Philip Balcomb's books being great for beginners.