Fork position

Ken M

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Feb 28, 2009
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For example, units 6,7,8 and 9, the way it's illustrated in the book, the screws are all on the same side, but the fork in an L, but if I make it like that, the fork is like a F. The difference in the distance from the block to the fork is substantial, it must make a difference. I've always flopped it over so the fork will be in the proper position. I know the illustrations aren't exact, but what do you all do about that? Do you even know what I'm talking about:???:
 

KurtinSA

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Nov 24, 2014
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I always put the fork on the way it is illustrated in the guide. The guide has the fork in both positions as you scan through the various units, so I don't think it was a "mistake" but is the way they found the positions on the clocks. For some clocks, the fork tines come out of the middle of the body of the fork. I don't care if the screws are on opposite sides or the same sides...I can deal with that!

Certainly the position of the "arm" of the fork can make a difference if the "arm" comes out of the top or the bottom of the block. The body of the fork defines how much of the suspension spring above the body will be twisted in operation while the fork tines and where they contact the anchor pin will set the amount of force imparted to the anchor pin.

Kurt
 

Wayne A

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Sep 24, 2019
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I put the screws on the same side if I can just because I like the look. Sometimes that not possible due to upper block designs like 6,7,8 etc.. Always start with the layout like the guide's pictures but on a few clocks I have flipped the block to improve running.

Wayne
 

shutterbug

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If you need more over swing, turning the fork side down would help. If the problem is rotation amount, turning it up would help. Otherwise, put it as shown in the book ;)
 

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