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Fork position on 5C

Ken M

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Feb 28, 2009
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This little Kundo I'm working on has unit 5C. I've read here the suggestion to invert the fork so it is upside down to the diagram. If I invert the fork, the fork will be high on the anchor pin, and maybe that is the point!!:???: I assume that the length of spring between the fork and the top block remains the same, is that correct? Or does that change? Thanks
 

Ken M

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Feb 28, 2009
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Yes, and I'm having trouble, I'm in the frustration phase! But I haven't really sat down with it and studied it yet. I cleaned and oiled the movement, and appears to be working properly. But the beat is out, I need to take a close look. But when it runs for the 10 minutes now, the anchor looks to be sticking. The tension washers were positioned differently than I think they are supposed to be. I think the outside cupped washer needs to go on the shoulder, and then the flat washer, correct? I need to lube the escape wheel and anchor pallets with something light. The distance between the fork and the pin is narrow, need to look at that. Later today I'll get into it proper. But I'm wondering if I should invert that fork? What do you think?
 

shutterbug

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First, take off the hands. That will tell you if the problem lies there. You have to understand what moving the fork accomplishes before you do anything. Inverting it will raise it higher. Basically, you want to run it as low as possible without it fluttering, but high enough to give you good rotation.
Look at your rotation and overswing. If you have poor rotation, but good overswing (equal on both sides!), then raising it would be what's needed. If, however, you have poor overswing, lowering it is the way to go.
 

Ken M

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Thanks Shutterbug. After further study, I notice the one pallet was not releasing properly. So after some messing around, I took it apart. The pic is not the best, but you can see the slope of each pallet. The pallet on the left doesn't look to have enough slope to give an appropriate impulse to the fork. It's just flat, where the pallet on the right has a good slope and can give a good impulse to the fork. So when the clock is "running", it will get a good impulse in one direction, but dies in the other direction. Does this look right? Is there something I can do with it? Thanks. :(
 

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shutterbug

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That's not all that uncommon looking to me. Look at page 43 of your book if you have it.
 

Ken M

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I have an old book, 1965. Page 43 is question and answer about suspension springs and fork position. Not sure what you are looking at on page 43, but I'm pretty sure it's not what I'm looking at! I know this clock must have been running at some time in the past, so there's is something going on that I haven't found yet, like not enough power or something.
 

shutterbug

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I have an old book, 1965. Page 43 is question and answer about suspension springs and fork position. Not sure what you are looking at on page 43, but I'm pretty sure it's not what I'm looking at! I know this clock must have been running at some time in the past, so there's is something going on that I haven't found yet, like not enough power or something.
There's a page toward the back that shows various pallets. Note how they all look like yours, at least the pallet angles :)
 

Ken M

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Yup! Page 7 in my book. But you're right, one looks flatter than the other. I think my problem now is the beat. I don't care much for this fork design, it should be inverted. And in my book, unit 5C, the fork is tilted down....why? 5D looks better, and it's the same fork by the looks of it, and there is more spring between the fork and the top block. Everything else looks the same, just the fork is inverted. I think I'll try that soon, if nothing gets any better.
 

shutterbug

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The beat is set by visually setting the over-swing to equal on each side. Concentrate on that - not the sound or anything else. Set it when the pendulum is barely causing escapement on each side. Then it should run if everything else is in good shape.
 

doug sinclair

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I suggest that you DO NOT change the pallets. That will be the very last thing you might do, and only after you are DEAD CERTAIN that everything else is correct. If you have one pallet that is not releasing properly, then you could very well have a bent escpe wheel tooth. Changing the pallets to correct that is NOT the way to go. If the escapement action seems normal enough to you for most of a revolution of the escape wheel, then it hangs up on one tooth, mark the TWO teeth on the escape wheel. The one at the discharge pallet, and the one at the receiving pallet. Then take the wheel out after letting down the power, and check those teeth.

As to the tension washers. The football shaped one goes on first, CONCAVE side facing away from the plate, and it sits on the shoulder of the center wheel. Then the flat washer goes on over that, then the cannon pinion, minute wheel, hour wheel, and E clip to hold the minute wheel. Then the dial, the hour hand, and the minute hand. Press the minute hand back against spring tension (the footbal shaped spring) and locate the retainer nut. If you have these components arranged in this manner, they are NOT your problem!
 

Ken M

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Thanks Doug! You verified the order of the the tension washers. When I took it apart, the flat washer was on the shoulder.

The clock is running! What a little beauty, I'm going to try to get it off my friend! Not likely, especially now that it's running. The drawbacks of clock repair, you can't keep 'em :sour:
 

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CORKPJ

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I need some feedback on a 5E, plate 1381, K & O. the clock runs, has plenty of power at the escapement, is in beat and has a rotation of 190 degrees, with 30 degrees of overswing each side. When I set up the suspension unit as in the 10th edition, and installed it, the clock would not run, stopping after 5 minutes. To get it to run, the fork had to be lowered 2m/m which is quite a lot I feel. Is this amount of rotation normal for this clock or can I do something to increase it?
Thanks to all
P.C.
 

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shutterbug

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Raising the fork - increased rotation with decreased over swing


Lowering does the opposite.

Small movements have big reactions on these clocks! :)
 

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