I hope this information is of use to people struggling to set up these clocks, having struggled to get mine running near normal. The balance wheel was the issue, having spent hours on every other aspect. Put simply if the balance wheel is not BALANCED it will never run correctly. Do not assume the weights are in the correct position just because the clock looks tidy, as I did.
The balance wheel should be balanced like a car wheel after having a new tyre fitted . It should stay poised at whatever angle it is positioned. The wheel should have no bias or tendancy to settle in one position when turned. The simple way to achieve this is to number all the weights as they are removed and weigh each one and note it down on paper. Then the job of achieving correct balance by replacing them in a logical sequence can begin. This may take some time but well worth it. With a coil resitance of near 20 ohms give or take an 1-2 ohms and bearings in good order, 360 rotation will be acheived with 1.5 volts.
I could not find this simple information anywhere, in fact I read some contradicting information saying it was of little importance because the spring would rectify any inbalance... hogwash!!
The balance wheel should be balanced like a car wheel after having a new tyre fitted . It should stay poised at whatever angle it is positioned. The wheel should have no bias or tendancy to settle in one position when turned. The simple way to achieve this is to number all the weights as they are removed and weigh each one and note it down on paper. Then the job of achieving correct balance by replacing them in a logical sequence can begin. This may take some time but well worth it. With a coil resitance of near 20 ohms give or take an 1-2 ohms and bearings in good order, 360 rotation will be acheived with 1.5 volts.
I could not find this simple information anywhere, in fact I read some contradicting information saying it was of little importance because the spring would rectify any inbalance... hogwash!!