Emperor Grandfather Clock

Newby in North Pole

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I recently picked up a really nice emperor grandfather clock in excellent conditon. I brought it home set it up and has been keeping perfect time for over a week. My problem is I cant get it ti chime :( I weighed the weights and have 2-9.9 lbs and 1-7.7 lb weight. I have the heavier wieghts on the chime and strike and the lighter one on the time train. If I apply hand pressure to the chime side it will chime. I have looked on line for heavier weights, but cant seem to find any that are heavier. Is there a way to adjust the chime train so that it will work with the 9.9 weight ? The strike side seems a little slow, but it will strike once the chime side finishes. Thanks for any advice
 

R&A

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It may need a cleaning. Plus you should oil the movement and see if you free it up. If oiling doesn't do the trick, then clean and check to see if there is wear on the plates and bush.

H/C
 

bkerr

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Fred, it sounds as though your clock could use a good COA. You can add some extra weight by using lead shot in the shell. I suggest looking closely at all of the pivot points especially on the back plate. If you see black pivot poop creaping outward that is a sure sign of a need for cleaning. If you take all of the weight off and move the first gear with your finger and then watch each piviot going up the train for movement (slop) that will tell you a story as well.

Good luck
 

shutterbug

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The weight is correct, so the chiming problem is more than likely a power drain, indicating that a clean and some bushings are in order. I'd recommend Butterbearings on the first and second wheels. The time and strike weights are probably reversed. The lighter one will be the strike, especially if you're running a heavy lyre pendulum.
 

leeinv66

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shutterbug;542875 said:
The weight is correct, so the chiming problem is more than likely a power drain, indicating that a clean and some bushings are in order. I'd recommend Butterbearings on the first and second wheels. The time and strike weights are probably reversed. The lighter one will be the strike, especially if you're running a heavy lyre pendulum.
Are you sure Shutterbug? In my experience the time train runs a lighter weight than the chime or strike.
 

shutterbug

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I used to think so too. But the strike has less resistance than the time train, and it makes sense that it would be the lightest. As I mentioned, a heavy pendulum makes it more practical to have the heavier weight on the time. Most clocks run the same on time and strike, the only discernible difference is the heavier pendulum on those with unequal weights.
I suppose my opinion can be altered though .... so lets see what others opine. View attachment 5216
 

sandcastcb750

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It is possible to add more weight , by finding a heavier weight. I might advise against that from personal experience.

I tried that but the loop chain which is crimped together, opened at one end and the weight fell from top to bottom. It broke through the clock bottom. The chain is not too rugged.

The weights you have should work if the movement is clean, oiled and not worn. If cleaning does no good, consider a new Hermle movement as they don't cost a fortune.

The Emperors are nice clocks. I had a couple of them.
 

leeinv66

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shutterbug;543029 said:
I used to think so too. But the strike has less resistance than the time train, and it makes sense that it would be the lightest. As I mentioned, a heavy pendulum makes it more practical to have the heavier weight on the time. Most clocks run the same on time and strike, the only discernible difference is the heavier pendulum on those with unequal weights.
I suppose my opinion can be altered though .... so lets see what others opine. View attachment 5217
The chime and strike trains both have to run hammers and their associated hardware Shutterbug. The time train has less power requirements. Normally and in my experience. But I have been wrong befroe;)
 

Scottie-TX

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Well, regardless;
The strike side seems a little slow,
If it strikes slow with ten pounds it probably won't strike at all with seven.
. . . . . and,
has been keeping perfect time for over a week.
it is reliable on seven so probably doesn't need ten.
Clearly, the clock needs dismantled, cleaned properly, and lubed properly.
 

mlcampbell

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Overall they're pretty neat clocks. Mine finally got settled in and runs just fine after many false starts and stops.

The only thing it still does that I can't seem to fix is it doesn't strike twelve. Ever. Eleven o'clock comes four times a day here. My daughters just say it's "Second eleven" instead of noon...

I went round and round with the weights too and finally just put everything back the way it was when I got it home and it runs just fine...except the eleven thing.
 

Scottie-TX

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Observe rack operation, snail location, and gathering action.
Snail may be set too deep in eleven, never gets to twelve and returns to one.
It may be gathering more than one tooth but would seem it would do that for all.
Make certain rack is dropping fully onto snail's twelfth flat.
 

Newby in North Pole

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ok,I took alls advice..i felt energetic this morning and took it apart, ultrasounded the movent and put it back together, NO BUSHING needed :) Greased and oiled everything and put the heavier weight on chime and strike and light one on time train. All was well but I had a hiccup with the chime, didnt have it set right. Waited a few hours and then tackled the chime issue. It is now properly working, except for it chimes at 14 minute, 28 minutes, 44 minutes and then at 59 minutes. I noticed the pins were bent, but I remember I believe LaBounty telling me just cause somethink looks bent, dont straighten it. Well on another day I will dismantel and straighten these pins, and I bet it will chime on the appropriate minutes. Tomorrow I will tweek the hammers, theyjust dont sound right, but this Clock was put together in 1977, purchased by and elderly man, and he passed about 10 yrs ago. Been sitting in his sons bedroom not running for at least the last 10 yrs. over all the think looks new. NO wobble on any wheels. Solid Chery cabinet and I think I will enjoy this clcok for many yrs to come, UNLESS I find an old Gustav Becker round top G/F clock in that black wood. That really is what I have my heart set on. I did find one on E=bay, in Michigan, but they will not ship to Alaska or Hawaii, Guess they think we are a foreign country =)). THANK YOU ALL for your comments and advice. I was just hoping not to have to have taken it apart, but I shouldnt have been trying to be lazy and done it from the get go. THANKS AGAIN
:)
since I first started to learn about CLOCKS and repairs about 13 monts ago when I wanted my personal clocks fixed and discovered what this rip of person, that doesnt have a verhy good reputation here in town wanted. This is my 42nd clock that I have taken apart and got it running, so I Was able to learn From video that I purchased, books and Dave in Nebraska Help. and getten this far, then I think I am on the right track for a long rewarding Hobbie. Now I need to learn how to use this milling machine I bought last summer :) ONLY clock I have not got to work is a carriage annivesary clock, was running good for months, but noticed it has quit. NOt sure I like them anyway :p
 
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Newby in North Pole

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Oh one think I forgot to ask. The finish on this Cherry wood is more like just a stain. I would like for it to have a more profession finish. Should I use 0000 steel wool to get a nice smother finish and then use like min-wax stain with a polyurathane to get that nice fine silky finish ?
 

harold bain

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For the problem of the clock chiming one minute early, this can easily be corrected by moving the bushing in the minute hand.
 

sandcastcb750

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As Harold said, you can adjust the minute hand to make it chime on 15,30,45 and 60. The center insert can be a pain to move/rotate.

I make scribe lines on the back of the minute hand (across the bushing to the hand) to see position and how much to move.

Sometimes you can do it by grabbing the hand and rotating the bushing by grabbing the insert with a plier. A better way is to make a tool using a screwdriver that has been grounded to four square sides and tapered to a point. Really tight resisting bushings may require a bigger handle to hold.

Usually you have to do this operation if you buy a new movement or hands.
 

Newby in North Pole

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Harold & Sand,
After I posted, I thought what a dummy, I hadn't even looked to see if the hand was bushed. I looked and it was, so I now have it chiming on the 60,15,29 and 45. Thanks :)
 

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