Edinburgh Longcase Restoration

[Snorty]

Hi guys, my addiction continues it seems and I have picked up yet another Longcase in need of help today!
I was drawn to it as it is a local clock. First observations are…missing weights, missing second hand /bell / one pulley, foot of the base has been crudely reconstructed from random timber and weirdly built at a slant to allow the clock to sit on slope! Goes without saying the movement will needs full strip & clean, chapter rings re-silvered, case dealt with. Also missing a small piece of timber from above the door. All that aside, I think it will make a fantastic clock when it has been brought back.
I have also included a couple of extracts on the maker and the man he was apprenticed to.



Comments & thoughts / suggestions
invited as always!

 

[novicetimekeeper]

That's a very Scottish looking case, apart from the bit at the bottom. I like the dial too.

 

[novicetimekeeper]

Scottish clocks are not my area, but do the dial and case dates match? I would have thought the case was 19th century but as I say, not my field.

 

[daveR]

Yes, you have your work cut out,but that's the fun of of it for a lot of us. And it look like you have a pretty tight area to work in if that is indeed where you do your work.
Might be worth checking to see if it ever had a finial on top of the hood in the middle (old holes etc)
David

 

[Snorty]

Scottish clocks are not my area, but do the dial and case dates match? I would have thought the case was 19th century but as I say, not my field.

Good question, I’m not sure but I have seen a few of this makers clocks on searches so it should be fairly easy to find out.

One example here….https://theclockandwatchshop.co.uk/product/andrew-scott-edinburgh/

I have found a few more too. The style does look to be correct.

 

[Snorty]

Yes, you have your work cut out,but that's the fun of of it for a lot of us. And it look like you have a pretty tight area to work in if that is indeed where you do your work.
Might be worth checking to see if it ever had a finial on top of the hood in the middle (old holes etc)
David

Thanks David, I’ve already had a look at the hood and there doesn’t appear to have ever been a finial hole. A look at some of the makers other clocks seems to support that.
Yes, I’m afraid there isn’t a vast amount of room in my garage sadly! I’m afraid when you are an electrician who does his own home joinery, plumbing, has a car hobby that needs tools and has an antique clock collecting / restoring pastime, it takes up a lot of space!

 

[novicetimekeeper]

Good question, I’m not sure but I have seen a few of this makers clocks on searches so it should be fairly easy to find out.

One example here….https://theclockandwatchshop.co.uk/product/andrew-scott-edinburgh/

I have found a few more too. The style does look to be correct.

This example shows what I mean, you have in this one a later clock in an earlier case design than yours, which rather supports what I was saying. Swapping cases on arch dials isn't always as easy as square dials, particularly brass arch dials, but I think this may be what has happened.

 

[Snorty]

This example shows what I mean, you have in this one a later clock in an earlier case design than yours, which rather supports what I was saying. Swapping cases on arch dials isn't always as easy as square dials, particularly brass arch dials, but I think this may be what has happened.

Yes, I see what you mean. That is interesting indeed. A slight pity really as I would have preferred the case to have been original to the movement.
That said, I do quite like the style of the case so I suppose it isn’t all bad.

 

[Snorty]

Hi folks, after a slightly longer look at the movement this afternoon, I have spotted something I hadn’t picked up on before (must have had my eyes shut!) It is missing the anchor /anchor arbor & suspension block, & crutch. I have bought a parts movement today. Do we think the parts will be transferable? Hopefully without too much modification?!

 

[Snorty]

Can any UK members recommend an eye bolt to replace a broken hook on a cast long case weight? Plenty of stuff around but I doubt stainless still is going to look good attached to cast

 

[novicetimekeeper]

Should be lead weights, perhaps now is the time to change?

 

[Snorty]

Should be lead weights, perhaps now is the time to change?

Hmmm….yes, probably a good idea in that case. Think I’ll probably still try and repair these for use elsewhere if I can.

 

[Snorty]

Picked myself up this movement for spares …should be able to grab the anchor assembly and escapement from it plus the back cock etc.
Seems pretty complete, it’s almost a shame to pull it for parts!

 

[Jim DuBois]

The parts you need to swap out will most likely require some degree of modifications. They seldom interchange directly.

 

[Snorty]

Thanks Jim, I had suspected that might be the case. I was hoping I might just be able to take the anchor / anchor arbor, crutch and swap it but the escape wheel doesn’t align so it looks like I’ll need that too. Not a big issue but hopefully I won’t have to alter too much.

 

[novicetimekeeper]

you can buy anchor blanks and backcock castings.

 

[Snorty]

I did look at that option but wasn’t sure if the arbor could be bought or had to made. I couldn’t find much info on the arbor full stop which put me off that route a bit plus I’d need to sort a crutch too. It was all looking a bit beyond my current talents it has to be said hence going down this path instead.

 

[Snorty]

Ok, so adjustments so far are looking like, take around 1.5mm off the thickness of the backcock fixing plates to take up excessive play on the arbor. I have the front to back play down to about 1mm give or take which doesn’t feel too bad. One screw hole will need slotted by just a couple of millimetres and the 2 pins will need re-drilled. Also I’ll need to make a recess for the fly arbor as it will be behind the plate. The other option was to alter the shape of the top edges of the backcock plate but there would be more involved there. The only issue I can see here is for oiling Photos below show the test fitting. Obviously I won’t be drilling anything until much further down the line…