Most visitors online was 1660 , on 12 Dec 2020
... or less roughly 7.62..3 is 7.61999999999177 mm or roughly 7.61.
RJOne of my main objectives is to have a jacobs chuck so that I can turn objects larger than the #10 collet can hold.
But I need a Rivett compatible collet to hold a jacob's chuck. You see pleanty of WW jacob's chuck holders on ebay. But no Rivett (drat..!).
RJ
Bob, my recollection is that my Perton was more tolerant than other lathes with regard to compatibility with 8 mm collets and WW-pattern accessories. Perton lathes do appear a bit plain with regard to aesthetic detailing but my lathe was very robust, smooth-running with excellent fitting. It was a good watchmaker's lathe.Fair enough Larry and thanks. How about the Perton lathe? Some quick googling looks like they use the 8mm collet. Is it workable or any good?
Thanks... Bob C.
RJHere is some notation for any of those like myself who have continued to persue use of Rivett lathe.
(more breadcrumbs for newbians to follow, if they make the same mistake as me...!)
Here is a site dedicated to Rivett history.
http://www.rivettlathe.com/
The Rivett #2 style with .30 collet diametor is still fairly common on ebay and occasionally collet sets still show up. But, they are pricey.
I have a fair set of 25 but continue to look for more.
Specific demensions of my collets are as follows.
.30 shaft diametor (not at threads).
.262 shaft diametor (at threads).
1.322 end to end (complete length of collet)
.3 length of threaded section
.488 diametor of collet head (relaxed state)
.26 distance from start of angle to outer shaft head (parallel to shaft)
.08 (aprox) remaining distance of outer bevel.
The collets I have are sized from 72 to 10. Where 72 has the smallest hole and 10 is the largest.
When searching ebay or other likely sources, I have not exactly determined if other collets with (from seller description which may be subjective) the number/hole arrangement is determinant of being a match. In other words just because on some collets as the number goes down the hole size gets smaller (reverse of my #2 Rivett collets) that they would NOT function.
I only assume they would NOT function, that if the number hole relation is reverse from what my set is, then it is PROBABLY not compatible.
I believe the reverse is indicative of WW style which is NOT compatible.
I say this because of the vaugeness of some seller descriptions where they describe the collet shaft diametors as aprox 5/16ths inch. .30 is close to 5/16ths
.30 seems to be the key attribute indicative of compatibility. 40 tpi is common to both Rivett and WW.
.3 is 7.61999999999177 mm or roughly 7.61.
My collet set is a least workable set for watch and clock repair. 70 is small enough to hold onto watch staff (not pivots) and 10 is much larger than any clock arbor.
One solution I am looking into is to locate an adjustable die of 40 tpi.
It is quite common to find on ebay WW tap which is used to true up threads for drawbars.
40 tpi is used on both the Rivett lathe and the WW. So an adjustable die in the .30 ball park should be able to cut a stock piece to create specialized collets.
Beware that not all dies advertized as adjustable are adjustable. The adjustable have 2 cutting blades that can spread apart. I think they are spring loaded so you can spread them and the springs adjust to the object.
An alternative solution (which looks even more promissing) is that there is a machinist shop in my area that can do the work for me.
One of my main objectives is to have a jacobs chuck so that I can turn objects larger than the #10 collet can hold.
But I need a Rivett compatible collet to hold a jacob's chuck. You see pleanty of WW jacob's chuck holders on ebay. But no Rivett (drat..!).
I could then make specialized collets if the jacobs chuck does not produce sloppy results as I have heard the runout is bad.
I will have to experiment. Love the idea of cutting my own out of brass.
The first home made collet I think will be just a large wax collet. I like the idea of being able to shellac in place (with heat) any irregular object and turn.
I would like to experiment with making jewel replacements. Guess I will need diamond tip cutting tools. Garnett looks cheap enough I think.
Another objective is to have made/or make a tailstock collet holder.
So, with the jacob's chuck I can hold a larger stock piece to turn down so to make a tube to slide in tailstock post. I will have to find stock pipe/tube with inner diametor agree-able with Rivett drawbar (I fortunatley have 2) and turn the pipe down so it will slide in the tailstock post.
I don't think I can drill a stock piece 5 or so inches. I'm not a massochist. But I may end up trying. Not sure.
Then have the machist turn a head that will connect to that pipe so to insert collet in. The head might be solder on or the whole thing turned as one piece.
The head should be keyed for the collet as well.
The objective of a tailstock collet holder is to have the ability to drill very small arbors for pivot replacement.
See, understand, I was able to get 2 Rivett #2 lathes off ebay for cheap. So I have 2 of everything except tailstocks.
At one point I was using the 2 heads facing each other. Where one would hold the bit while the other hold the object.
This was very close and workable, but no cigar. The problem was that both the heads do not EXACTLY match up height wise. They are very very very close...! But just enough off to not work for watch pivots.
I tried shimming one, but what to use when the difference is something like .02 to. 05 "inches off. One layer of masking tape was close.
Plus it was a sloppy solution as to operate one has to slide one of the heads.
Sliding the head you have to push down while sliding. The heads really count on being tightened down to maintain reliable contact with the bed. So accuracy is comprimized by sliding. Managable but still sloppy.
A tailstock collet holder that can slide should be a good solution for accuracy.
In reading Fried's book. I see I will/should have to learn to make my own small pivot drill bits by grinding larger bits. I see Mascott pivot drills on ebay but often the quality is comprimized (busted bits or worn).
Another highly desired object would be the cross slide. I have seen home made cross slides on ebay compatible with WW style. So, it should not be too inconcievable for one to be made of Rivett demensions.
The homemade is desirable because every time I see a genuine Rivett crosslide on ebay it goes for mega bucks. I am crossing my fingers hoping the machinist can help.
The crosslide will be a definite plus. But I am getting to the point of where I can cut a watch balance staff using the tool post.
Tiny tiny tiny. I need to rework my bench so the lathe is just below neck high. Bending over to lathe with eye loupe on makes my neck hurt after a while. I think the microscope arrangement might not be so necessary. 10x loupe seems good enough. Maybe a little stronger but not much. Some eye loupes are much better than others. I definitley recommend one with a strap to the head. Who want's to squeeze their eye to hold a loupe for that long..!
So, is the crosslide really necessary? I think it's not, but I think I'm really gonna like it.
Probably a bigger obsticle to cutting balance staffs is measuring. How does one get a caliper on such small parts? There are specialized bench calipers and microscopes with cross-hairs/grids to help. But, my current interpretation is that they all require staff removal from the lathe to measure. So it's -cut -remove -measure -install etc... I think I'm going to experiment with improving veneer caliper design by attaching two modified razor blades (super glue) to caliper blades to measure with. So, to cut and measure on the fly.
RJ
Hey RJ, good to catch up with you! All's well indeed!Hey Micheal (Ansoniaman).
Just thought you might want to know that this thread is over 5 years old. I'm just updating with info for future Rivett lathe owners.
Hope you been well..!
...
RJ
RJ, I see Jerry's made some excellent advice and tips about measuring on the lathe as you have also alluded to the problems if the work has to be removed for measurement....
Probably a bigger obsticle to cutting balance staffs is measuring. How does one get a caliper on such small parts? There are specialized bench calipers and microscopes with cross-hairs/grids to help. But, my current interpretation is that they all require staff removal from the lathe to measure. So it's -cut -remove -measure -install etc... I think I'm going to experiment with improving veneer caliper design by attaching two modified razor blades (super glue) to caliper blades to measure with. So, to cut and measure on the fly.
RJ
Well, maybe not RJ.Hello Jerry, Mike. Good to hear from you all.
I will definitely have to check into either of those measuring devices. Doubt I'll get one like you have Mike, probably rare.
...
RJ
Like me! Just found this thread... I posted pics of my Rivett 2B (bought at a flea market for $50) on another thread. Dang - looks like my Rivett will most likely turn out to be an occasionally-used tool at best. Hopefully I'll be able to find a tailstock and a couple more collets someday...Hey Micheal (Ansoniaman).
Just thought you might want to know that this thread is over 5 years old. I'm just updating with info for future Rivett lathe owners...