Does anyone know who custom cut/make new pinion/wheels?

[weltas]

I'm looking for someone can make new pinion/wheels.
I have some pocket/wrist watches need to be repaired, but sometimes parts are worn, and need a replacement.
( I can look for parts if the movement can be identified, but old ones sometimes can't or hard to find )

If anyone can make new pinion/wheels from old worn parts, please let me know.
As I repair watches, I don't want to have whole watch serviced, just need parts made.

Thank you!

 

[geo.ulrich]

I hope someone helps I'm in the same boat. I've called some that were recommended but no help....

 

[Whereisitat]

Logistically-if that is how it is spelled-it is a very tall order to make a small precision part-at a price point.

I'm not skilled enough but what my past in mechanics tells me is nobody can make a living doing that kind of work unless they get paid a decent hourly rate-maybe $12-20.00 hourly. Compare that to a machinists prices etc & you will see I'm waaay low on that figure but use it.

I'm guessing it would probably take 10-12 hours of work to properly set up a gear cutter, make the shaft & get every exact-and critical-dimension exactly right. Oh and do it right the 1st time or you get to start over for free. You have just priced the job well beyond the value of the item being repaired. Unless it is a high value movement its a no-win.

$.02

 

[geo.ulrich]

It is a what I would consider a high value movement with a 4 star rating. I haven't given up yet, just seems there are very few capable anymore ....do not need shaft just a wheel..

 

[Jerry Kieffer]

It is a what I would consider a high value movement with a 4 star rating. I haven't given up yet, just seems there are very few capable anymore ....do not need shaft just a wheel..

The bad news is that there is very little demand for cutting watch wheels and pinions at the going rates for quality work. Those that generally do this work got into it to do their own work. Even worse is that traditional repair methods typically taught in horological courses are skill oriented and very time consuming not to mention the very high cost of recommended equipment.

The good news is that it is not at all difficult to do your own wheel/pinion cutting if you are willing to do it with a small milling machine in the same manner Horological watch material is manufactured. It will require a small Mill capable of the work at about $800.00. A CNC rotary table at about $750.00 for indexing and a cutter for a particular wheel at about $150.00.

Once you have the mill you can machine and harden your own single point cutters to match any particular tooth profile for about $2.00.
An example of such a cutter and the wheel cut with it can be seen in the attached photo.

Instruction and hands on experience in these methods is covered in the NAWCC workshop WS-119 coming up this fall.

Jerry Kieffer

 

[Skutt50]

You may find some inspiration here:
https://mb.nawcc.org/showthread.php?79402-Making-a-new-cut-pinion

You did not explain what the problem is with the old pinion. If it is the pivot you could possibly consider re-pivoting the old arbor.

Otherwise I think your best option is to find an arbor from a scrapped watch where the gear part match. Using a lathe you can then cut the arbor to fit.

Same thing with the wheel. Start with an old wheel with the correct amount of teeth and adjust. There is a "rounding up" tool with which you can reduce the diameter if required.
Some pictures can be found here:
https://www.csparks.com/watchmaking/GearTools.html

 

[karlmansson]

The good news is that it is not at all difficult to do your own wheel/pinion cutting if you are willing to do it with a small milling machine in the same manner Horological watch material is manufactured. It will require a small Mill capable of the work at about $800.00. A CNC rotary table at about $750.00 for indexing and a cutter for a particular wheel at about $150.00.

Jerry Kieffer

Jerry, is the CNC rotary table a necessity or just convenient? Compared to a manual rotary table that is.

Best
Karl

 

[geo.ulrich]

Just need to make an intermediate wheel do not need pinion wheel is held in with a shouldered screw...

 

[geo.ulrich]

Jerry, I think you know through other posts between us I have a tool shop so mill and indexer or dividing head isn't an issue or cutter grinder with radius attatchment and comparator for tooth form, issue is time its hard to stop a job for one wheel I feel i'm better served to send to someone with cutter setup. If I do not find someone I will make myself just not anytime soon....thanks for your input as always

 

[Jerry Kieffer]

Karl & Geo-ulrich

Karl
Geo hit the nail on the head when he suggested time as the real issue. While the stand alone CNC R/T I mentioned is actually a "convenience", it is the convenience that makes the situation practical.

For myself personally, the selection of methods and equipment with the compatibility and versatility to readily configure themselves in ways that allows work to be done in a timely fashion was a major turning point. The wheel in the photo in my last post is a good example.

In this case it was for a early rare Howard as I recall with no available replacement.

First, I did not have the proper cutter on hand, so the one shown was machined and hardened (Not ground) in about 20 minutes as publicly demonstrated many many times.

Next, solid bar stock was placed in a Lathe chuck screwed to the R/T mounted vertical on the Mill. The R/T was place in continuous motion where the stock was faced off with an Endmill and the OD was machined in less than five minutes.
No time consuming Arbor/Blank/setup was required. In five minutes I was ready to cut teeth.

Because the stock was mounted vertical and the headstock is readily able to rotate vertical or horizontal, the cutting process is always very clearly visible saving a ton time. Once the teeth are cut with the headstock horizontal, it is then changed to vertical to allow the crossing to be machined with the assistance of the R/T and rotation positioning for straight cuts with a .020" endmill in this case. Cuts are quick, highly accurate, and very clean with little of any cleanup required.

When complete, the chuck and stock are moved to the Lathe where the wheel is parted off. The center hole can be drilled/bored before or after parting.

All in all, the cutter is 30 minutes max. with the wheel at about two hours. As such, it becomes part of the repair process rather than an extra.

My first watch wheel was done on the traditional multiple belt and pulley arrangement at about two days and was not happy with the results.

Jerry Kieffer

 

[geo.ulrich]

My first watch wheel was done on the traditional multiple belt and pulley arrangement at about two days and was not happy with the results.

Jerry Kieffer[/QUOTE] I can see a real advantage to the r/t in your case don't feel cost effective in my case and I really don't need to be pulled into a two day job at least until I'm retired and no longer have customers calling about their jobs...thanks for the step by step description good idea to mill then generate o.d.