Derbyshire Lathe Questions

[WoodyR]

Folks,

I recently purchased a Derbyshire lathe with a 12-inch bed. It came with a full set of collets and several accessories. This is my first watchmakers' lathe and I know nothing about them (I plan to buy a Sherline lathe, too.). The gentleman whom last owned it died about 20 years ago and I don't think it's been used since. My first priority is to clean, lubricate and protect it as some surface rust is present.

1) Can somebody please tell me how to disassemble the tailstock? Does the grey plastic knob (collet holder?) unscrew? If so, is it RHT or LHT? I gently tried both directions but I don't want to force anything.

2) Are (rheostat?) foot pedals a nice feature for beginning lathe users?

3) Are there any parts lists / accessory lists / exploded views / maintenance manuals available on line for this lathe? So far, I've found almost nothing.

Thank you!!
Woody

 

[Skutt50]

Looks like a nice set up you have there.

I don't have a Derbyshire lathe myself. (Lorch).
It seems there is a lever/arm that is bent, underneeth the talistock. This could make the disassembly a bit harder.......
The grey knob I don't know, but if I had to guess I would try to unscrew it......
A fot pedal is what I use. I find it very useful and would not like any other solution.
There is a book I think is called "The Watchmakers Lathe" . It contained a lot of different lathes and accessories. I am not at home so I can't check.......

 

[WoodyR]

It seems there is a lever/arm that is bent, underneeth the talistock. This could make the disassembly a bit harder.......
The grey knob I don't know, but if I had to guess I would try to unscrew it......
A fot pedal is what I use. I find it very useful and would not like any other solution.
There is a book I think is called "The Watchmakers Lathe" . It contained a lot of different lathes and accessories. I am not at home so I can't check.......

Thank you very much for the reply!!! I really appreciate your willingness to help.

Please take a look at the extra photos I have attached to this reply. The lever/arm you reference isn't bent. It just looked bent in the earlier photos.

I tried turning the knob with some force in both directions but it didn't budge. I'm afraid to try any harder. I'll put a few drops of Liquid Wrench in the corners to see if that helps.

I'll look for "The Watchmakers Lathe".

Thanks again!!!

 

[Skutt50]

OK so the not bent screw looks like a locking/friction setting for the sliding rod... (don't know the correct name)

I guess the grey knob is attached to a tube with threads at the end in which a tool is attached. What tool do you have on the other side of the grey knob? If you can find a similar tool in the set you can figure out LHT or RHT.

There is a hole at the end/side of the knob. Check how deep it is. Possibly all the way through to the tool on the other end.

There does not seem to be much that can hold the grey "knob". I have some similar "knob" things on my lathe but smaller and they hold a friction fitted tool at the other end. My "knobs" just slides very easily inside a tube .

 

[WoodyR]

OK so the not bent screw looks like a locking/friction setting for the sliding rod... (don't know the correct name)

I guess the grey knob is attached to a tube with threads at the end in which a tool is attached. What tool do you have on the other side of the grey knob? If you can find a similar tool in the set you can figure out LHT or RHT.

There is a hole at the end/side of the knob. Check how deep it is. Possibly all the way through to the tool on the other end.

There does not seem to be much that can hold the grey "knob". I have some similar "knob" things on my lathe but smaller and they hold a friction fitted tool at the other end. My "knobs" just slides very easily inside a tube .

Thanks again for the reply!

I don't know what tool is currently installed on the tailstock spindle. But, all the tools/collets/chucks which came with the lathe are threaded.

I believe the grey knob is known as a draw-in spindle wheel. The lathe came with 2 extra draw-in spindles which look exactly the same. Yes, all of them are hollow and the depth (length) seem to be the same, too.

The more I look at it and the more I think about it, the more my tailstock spindle seems to be made for threaded collets. I'll keep applying penetrating oil with hopes it will loosen the treads. I'm in no rush.

Thanks again!!

 

[Wimberleytech]

Yes on foot pedal. Get Allen-Bradley. Not Mercury. Needs to be continuous control.

 

[BillN]

Congrats on your new acquisition!! Like you I just bought my first watchmakers lathe and am in the process of restoring it. Mine is a mix of a Boley bed and headstock with a Marshall cross-slide with assorted collets.

One of the things I'd strongly suggest is this book:
"The Modern Watchmakers Lathe and How to Use it" by Archie B. Perkins. Its a little over $100 US to your doorstep but its a great investment.

Here it is on Amazon: The Modern Watchmakers Lathe And How To Use It: Perkins, Archie B.: 9780918845238: Amazon.com: Books

I've read here and elsewhere that this is probably the best watchmaker's lathe book out there. In my limited experience I'd have to agree; it's full of wonderful explanations and diagrams. And your tailstock is pictured and described on page 13!

Mr. Perkins states that the lever/screw that is on a 40-ish degree angle is the locking screw for the spindle which is the tube assembly that the knob is attached to. You might try to loosen that or even remove it. You could also remove the drawbar lever assembly which would probably give you access to the sides of the spindle for better lubrication, etc.

Your intuition of "not forcing it" is definitely the best way forward! I wish you good luck!!
-Bill

 

[WoodyR]

Congrats on your new acquisition!! Like you I just bought my first watchmakers lathe and am in the process of restoring it. Mine is a mix of a Boley bed and headstock with a Marshall cross-slide with assorted collets.

One of the things I'd strongly suggest is this book:
"The Modern Watchmakers Lathe and How to Use it" by Archie B. Perkins. Its a little over $100 US to your doorstep but its a great investment.

Here it is on Amazon: The Modern Watchmakers Lathe And How To Use It: Perkins, Archie B.: 9780918845238: Amazon.com: Books

I've read here and elsewhere that this is probably the best watchmaker's lathe book out there. In my limited experience I'd have to agree; it's full of wonderful explanations and diagrams. And your tailstock is pictured and described on page 13!

Mr. Perkins states that the lever/screw that is on a 40-ish degree angle is the locking screw for the spindle which is the tube assembly that the knob is attached to. You might try to loosen that or even remove it. You could also remove the drawbar lever assembly which would probably give you access to the sides of the spindle for better lubrication, etc.

Your intuition of "not forcing it" is definitely the best way forward! I wish you good luck!!
-Bill

Thanks Bill!! I really appreciate your detailed reply!!! I'm going to take your advice and order the book you recommend.

I tilted the whole tailstock in a drain pan and ran several drops of Liquid Wrench down the center of the draw-in spindle making sure the collet threads were covered at the bottom. I let it soak for about 3 days and voila ..... the spindle unscrewed with medium pressure. I love penetrating oil. In my experience, it works wonders IF I give it plenty of time to work.

I'm really hoping the book you recommended will tell me how to properly disassemble, clean, lubricate, reassemble and adjust the headstock. It currently spins freely but I don't want to take any chances. This lathe has been sitting idle for at least 20 years and I think it's been stored in a garage with no climate control.

Thanks again!! Woody

 

[WoodyR]

Yes on foot pedal. Get Allen-Bradley. Not Mercury. Needs to be continuous control.

Thank you for the recommendation! I took a risk and tried the foot pedal which came with the lathe. It actually worked well. But, I really should replace all the very old wiring. Thanks again!