Cuckoo Lever Timing

Discussion in 'Clock Repair' started by MuensterMann, Dec 29, 2017.

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  1. MuensterMann

    MuensterMann Registered User

    Mar 23, 2008
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    I have an 8-day Hubert Herr cuckoo clock. It is all cleaned and oiled, and the bushings look good. I set the lifting levers in such a way that as soon as the second coo happens, the train stops.

    However, I am experiencing a slow start and sometimes stall. After startup it all runs fine. The problem seems to be that although I have the strike train stopping after the second coo fails off the strike wheel pin, the other levers are too close (first coo and the gong). When the clock goes into warning, those two levers are already lifting - thus, there is a force on the train at startup. I also notice that the gong seems to happen way before the first coo.

    How does one adjust for this? I don't want the second coo to lift and not fall when the train stops for sure! Do I need longer lift wires?
     
  2. THTanner

    THTanner Registered User
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    Jul 3, 2016
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    can you post some still pictures of the back of the movement - and then a video of all of this happening?
     
  3. Chris D

    Chris D Registered User

    Sep 8, 2009
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    Definitely not longer wires, that will make it worse. You need to adjust things so that the 'paddles', the parts of the lifting lever that get lifted by the star wheel, are closer to horizontal (pointing to about 4:00), for both bellows. The paddle for the hammer should be a hair above the star at rest, so you may need to adjust the star wheel after you get the bellows straightened out.
     
  4. MuensterMann

    MuensterMann Registered User

    Mar 23, 2008
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    Here is an image to show basically the setup, but not much more at the moment.

    Thanks Chris for the hints. No star wheel on the outside on this Herr movement, but there is a pin when inside. How do you suggest adjusting for the paddles to be horizontal - by bending the paddles themselves or the position of the pin wheel? At first the 2nd bellow would be stuck in the air, so I adjusted the pin wheel position to stop after it dropped. Yes, to adjust this movement, I have to open the plates and physically move things around - and it is trial and error. The sequence of the strike is: gong, coo, coo. Is that correct?

    PC290085.JPG
     
  5. shutterbug

    shutterbug Moderator
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    You can bend the lift levers downward, if that helps, but more likely the star wheel will have to be moved. Normally, at least on modern clocks, they are friction fit and can be moved with a little pressure from a screwdriver against a pillar and the wheel.
     
  6. MuensterMann

    MuensterMann Registered User

    Mar 23, 2008
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    My biggest problem is that two of the levers are under load after warning and when I go the other way, the remaining lever hangs up high at the stop.
     
  7. shutterbug

    shutterbug Moderator
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    Then try bending that lift lever down a bit.
     
  8. Chris D

    Chris D Registered User

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    Two things to check from the pic you posted. Make sure the bird isn't rubbing the side of the case on the way out, it looks close, but it may just be the picture. Other thing is, you should straighten out the bellow wire on the left side. Most of the time when they have a bend like that it rubs on the side of the bellow top and can slow things down. Also, what's up with the spring for the hammer? Something doesn't look right. It's not the usual set up.
     
  9. THTanner

    THTanner Registered User
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    I noticed that the flutes' locations are marked with a pencil lead, but usually the same size flutes are the same distance from the bottom of the case. The one on the left is considerably lower than the one on the right. Are both flute openings centered in the side board holes?
     
  10. MuensterMann

    MuensterMann Registered User

    Mar 23, 2008
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    Thank you for all your observations! All are hints for me. Seems that I am almost there with this clock. My troubles all began when the clock arrived in the mail and it was then that I noticed "sprayed with WD-40". Aghh.

    1. Bird is not hitting the side of the case. It is the angle making it look that way.
    2. I purposely bent that left lifting wire during my attempt to tweak. The slight bend actually helped. The right one was bent, and I had to straighten that one out to get it to work right. I will unbend the wire as needed.
    3. Hammer spring is on temporarily as I wanted to let off some force to see if that would help the situation. It will be corrected.,
    4. Flutes. I did notice upon tear down that the flutes were not original to the clock. And, both were different. And, the right one (looking at photo) had a sick-sounding coo, so the one in the photos is actually a replaced one that I replaced today - and I tried to match the same position, thus the pencil mark on that side. The openings are not centered in the hole vertically - they are high, but not above the opening. So, I am working with someone's fiddling!!! Perhaps the bellow changes altered the positioning of the lifting wires. The bellow lifting portion height is related to the position of the paddles, I believe..
     
  11. shutterbug

    shutterbug Moderator
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    The more I look at it, the more I wonder if those bellows brackets should be horizontal instead of vertical. The way they are, they could restrict the ease of raising them.
     
  12. Chris D

    Chris D Registered User

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    Ok, found one of these movements in my junk drawer. Unfortunately I must have stole the lifting levers for something else. But after looking at it I noticed another potential issue. The position of the lobe that lifts the door lock lever may need to be adjusted. There needs to be some space, at lock, between the lobe and the lever so when it goes into warning it still has a little space to run before it lifts the door lock lever. Yours looks like it is sitting right under the lever and then when it goes into warning, I'm assuming that it is already lifting the lever. Not sure what the best way to adjust it would be. I would probably split the plates and advance the wheel with the stop pin a tooth or two which should make it stop a little sooner and give you that space between the lobe and the lever. Good luck!

    IMG_20171230_103146.jpg
     
  13. MuensterMann

    MuensterMann Registered User

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    ChrisD, I am still fiddling with this adjustment. I now have that lobe not touching, but it leaves the second coo lift wire hanging high (thus not dropping). The "star" wheel (no star, but pins on the wheel) is not really adjustable friendly. What else to do?
     
  14. MuensterMann

    MuensterMann Registered User

    Mar 23, 2008
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    Okay, resolved. Well, it really could not be adjusted - other than the stop pin wheel and the cam to lift the rack. I took the clock apart several times and then got right position by luck. Now it has a healthy coo coo!!
     
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  15. Chris D

    Chris D Registered User

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    I would split the plates so that you can disengage the wheel with the pins from the wheel above it and advance it a tooth or two until you get it to finish the 2nd coo.
     
  16. Chris D

    Chris D Registered User

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    Glad you got it worked out.
     
  17. shutterbug

    shutterbug Moderator
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    You should be able to adjust the hammer timing with the gathering pallet. Just set it so the train stops when the last hammer falls.
     

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