Cuckoo actions incorrect

Ansel Spear

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May 16, 2017
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I'm attempting to resolve issues with the cuckoo actions on my 1986 Regula 25 cuckoo clock. I'm hoping for a bit of guidance.

1. The cuckoo lift wire defaults its position to above the bird, even after I move it beneath. I can't determine what I should adjust so that it defaults below.
2. The cuckoo swing lever is haphazard. Sometimes it will not return, leaving the cuckoo exposed and the door open. There does not seem to be any tension on this lever. Should it be spring loaded?

Thanks in advance.
 

John P

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The bird lift wire should be bent in/out/up/down until it stays below the bird tail but lifts when bellows is raised.
If not adjusted correctly, it can cause bird door to stay open . Make sure bird is centered on post and not hitting door frame.
There is a small brass wire return spring that pulls the door back in, mounted on the bird post. You may have to remove the movement to gain access to this spring. It may be broken, unhooked, or needing another wind before it is hooked to the plate. Door should close with a snap sound.

good luck
johnp
 
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Ansel Spear

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The bird lift wire should be bent in/out/up/down until it stays below the bird tail but lifts when bellows is raised.
If not adjusted correctly, it can cause bird door to stay open . Make sure bird is centered on post and not hitting door frame.
There is a small brass wire return spring that pulls the door back in, mounted on the bird post. You may have to remove the movement to gain access to this spring. It may be broken, unhooked, or needing another wind before it is hooked to the plate. Door should close with a snap sound.

good luck
johnp
Many thanks. I'll have a go at that.
 

shutterbug

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I find that the wire will jump up over the tail of the bird. Moving it forward a little will prevent that from happening. It could be lifting too high too - as John P mentioned above.
 

kinsler33

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Some clocks tend to have bird-tail-wire problems. The case is a bit too narrow to accommodate a longer wire because the other cuckoo whistle will interfere with it. The advice above is excellent, and it's about all you can do. You might be able to access (or at least look at) the cuckoo's perch spring through a side door if there is one.

Make sure that the cuckoo door wire isn't hanging up the door and, though it sounds silly, consider placing a microscopic dab of oil on the door hinges. It made a difference for me once.

M Kinsler
 

Ansel Spear

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Some clocks tend to have bird-tail-wire problems. The case is a bit too narrow to accommodate a longer wire because the other cuckoo whistle will interfere with it. The advice above is excellent, and it's about all you can do. You might be able to access (or at least look at) the cuckoo's perch spring through a side door if there is one.

Make sure that the cuckoo door wire isn't hanging up the door and, though it sounds silly, consider placing a microscopic dab of oil on the door hinges. It made a difference for me once.

M Kinsler
Thank you. I will look at that.
 

Ansel Spear

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I have recently lubricated the regula 25 movement, and when reassembled without the bellows and chiming weight connected, it runs flawlessly.

I have now connected the bellow wires and weight and 3 things happen - possibly a releted issue:

1. After a striking sequence the 'coo' lever remains in the up position. The toothed wheel that drives the bellow levers stops with the upper bellow lever on the wrong (upper) side of it. Therefore when it strikes, the 'coo' lever drops first to what should have been its rest position, rather than the 'cuck' lever lifting - creating a coo-cuck!

2. When arming, there is so much tension being generated somewhere in the movement that the clock stops. When I manually move the minute hand past the arming point, I can feel the movement struggling to get past that point.

3. When striking, the cuckcooing does not stop. The gathering pallet is in place and seems to be working. Can the rack have become out of sync with the process?

Whilst cleaning the movement I have not dismantled the mechanism, therefore the relationship between the parts is unchanged.

Can any kind person please suggest what I may have done to cause this.

Thanks in advance.
 

shutterbug

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The star wheel that raises and drops the lift levers needs to be turned a little so the lever drops and the bellow closes. Some of them have a set screw that can be loosened to turn it. Others are just friction fit and cam be turned with a little effort. When you get that part in the right position, it will likely solve the other issue too. It's keeping tension on the train now, so it can't start easily.
The third problem may be the gathering pallet position. When the stop pin enters the stop position, the GP has to be in place to stop the train. If it still gives you trouble, post a video on Youtube and link to it here so we can see what's happening.
 

shutterbug

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Hard to say. It might be related to the stop issue too. If it's not stopping correctly, there's no way of knowing where the star wheel would be on a good stop of the train. I'd fix that part first.
 

Ansel Spear

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Interestingly, now that I've taken the movement out of the case, the star wheel appears to stop with both levers down!
 

shutterbug

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Do the bellows close also? Maybe something in the case is causing the issue.
 

Ansel Spear

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One of the bellows wires is bent beyond recognition. The people who serviced it several years ago says this is beacuse of the unusual way that the musical box / carousel is mounted. There's no clear path from the lever to the bellows lug.

I have now removed the bellows and movement from the case and am building a rig so that I can get an unobstructed view of it working - or not, as the case may be!
 

Ansel Spear

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Mark, I have removed the dial, however, I need to see the side of the movement, in particular the mechanics behind the cuckoo arm and the rather unconventional way that the musical box is triggered.

Roughbarked. Everything was photographed and reinstated accordingly. I can guarantee that the bellows wires are correct.
 

Ansel Spear

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I have adjusted the star wheel so that the lower lifting lever (cuck) is at approximately 4 o'clock. This is acheived because its 'prong' rests on a star wheel tooth once the gathering pallet is locked off. Also, the gong lever is fully returned and a hair's width above the next star wheel tooth up from the lower lever. I believe this to be correct.

However, whilst the upper lever (koo) has no wire connected, its 'prong' is too short to reach a tooth on the star wheel, and it drops to the end of its range.

Question: Is this correct, and is it the length of the cuckoo wire that determines the resting position of the upper lever?

Thanks.

IMG_4864.jpg
 

shutterbug

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It sounds like an issue with that upper lever. The star wheel must raise and lower it, just like it does the other two. Can you see why it doesn't? Does it look broken?
 

Ansel Spear

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The lever 'prong' just looks too short. If I adjust the star wheel so that the lever is resting on a tooth, it simply drops once the star wheel rotates. By adjusting the star wheel in this way, the gong lever has already started its lift.

All I can think is that the wire is required to prevent the lever from dropping - thereby keeping the 'prong' within contact with the star wheel teeth.
 
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JimmyOz

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You are correct, once you put the below lifting wire back on it will not drop as far, therefore the star/count wheel will pick it up during the rotation.
The below lifting lever can be bent to get the right amount of lift once the movement is all together in the clock case. That is the long part with the loop in the end, not the short part that contacts the star/count wheel.
The photo looks to have everything close to the right place at the moment.
 
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JimmyOz

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I came into this late, however a tip for testing the movement before you put it back in the case as I see you had other issues.
Pull the top lifting lever out so it rests on the bottom one, that will stop it from falling to far.
On the front of the movement lift the rack lever out and let the rack fall.
Hold the movement between your forefinger and thumb on the top 2 posts.
With the other hand rotate the star/count wheel with your thumb.
Do this till the rack comes to a stop.
If all is well, the rack finishes and the bird returns you can put it back in the case.
 

shutterbug

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Show us a pic from the back of the clock so we can see the wires and lift levers.
 

Ansel Spear

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At the moment the wires are disconnected. There is a close-up of the lift levers a few posts back @ #18.
 

shutterbug

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You won't easily be able to get the lift wires correct without the bellows wires in place. They actually keep the levers from falling too far.
 

Ansel Spear

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First I wanted to make sure the movement runs correctly when installed back in its case. It's has been running perfectly for over 72 hours, and I can hear the striking working correctly, and the cuckoo and gong are correct.

Tomorrow I shall fit the bellows and wires. If the clock reverts back to stopping frequently, I will have established that it's in the way the lifting levers / wires have been fitted.
 

shutterbug

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They can't touch each other. Otherwise all should be fine. Longest wire on the bottom lift lever, going to the right bellow (looking from the back).
 

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