Crutch Wire Problems

Vernon

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One of my OG's came without a verge so I ordered a new one. I used my smooth flat pliers to form the "foot" at the end of the wire but somehow the wire got all knicked up and it sounds like a saw during operation (I'm surprised that it even runs). I'm going to replace the wire. What can I do to avoid this in the future.
 

Scottie-TX

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Well, not sure exactly what to tell you. I don't get a full grasp on what all happened here. Seems smooth face pliers would not leave nicks so not sure how that happened. Perplexed as to why it sounds like a saw; if it sounds like a saw because of the nicks, seems you could smooth the nicks with a file.
I know that 's not any help but here again; Perhaps a CLOSEUP picture may help us.
 

shutterbug

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If I read what you mean correctly, you were trying to form the loop at the bottom of the crutch. Probably round pliers would have been better, but as Scottie pointed out, you can use a smoothing file to remove the roughness. If you're getting a "sawing" effect, something is out of adjustment. The pendulum hanger wire should just move back and forth within the loop, and you don't want a lot of slop there.
 

Vernon

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I had trouble bending it the gauge was fairly heavy. I did try to poke a file in there to smooth things out and I'm sure made matters worse. Here's a pic of my creation.
-> posts merged by system <-
Maybe I should try using some thin strips of fine sand paper gradually going finer to smooth it out?
 

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Scottie-TX

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I can't say it won't work. It does. It does but it'll be prone to cause problems as loop should be a uniform, "U" shape such that there is nearly zero slop, front to back and rod moves thru it effortlessly.
Best way to form the loop is to measure the rod that goes thru it. Then create a small bending form about the same thickness. I use flat brass stock. Then bend that loop around the form. VOILA!
That is VERY thick rod. You might also consider thinning it on two sides so you're bending a thinner rod. I'd thin it with a flat file, thinning the surface the rod will contact and the other opposite it.
 
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Willie X

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Vern,

Anneal the brass wire and form the loop using round nose pliers.

Willie X
 

Vernon

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Agreed about thinning it, should of done it to start for it was tough to form.
 

Vernon

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Thanks for the quick replies. I'll get back into this tomorrow and reform this better using your suggestions and move on to bigger things. I thought the toughest thing would be shaping the verge, hah! :p
 

Scottie-TX

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I thought it was, firstest time I done it.
As for the sawing sound. I'd be looking at the pallets. Unpolished pallets are VERY noisy - inefficient too.
 

Vernon

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Went with Willies tip to anneal and reform then smoothed the rough areas. Repolished pallets. Still have the sound so I'm going to focus on the pivot point for the verge that I replaced and the ew. Pendulum has a great swing! Should I reharden the wire?
 

Scottie-TX

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I don't believe brass can be hardened like steel, except by work hardening as in hammering, etc. It won't need hardened anyway.
To find the cause of noise you need to watch while you listen. Does it do it on both ticks? Does it mate with escapement action or is it mated to crutch movement? This kind of, "watch and listen" will pinpoint most sources of unwanted noise.
 

shutterbug

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Went with Willies tip to anneal and reform then smoothed the rough areas. Repolished pallets. Still have the sound so I'm going to focus on the pivot point for the verge that I replaced and the ew. Pendulum has a great swing! Should I reharden the wire?
Nah, that wire is not important. The pallet faces have to be very hard (new ones are not hardened) and GLASS SMOOTH. If neither of those conditions are met, that's your noise.
 
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