Could use advice on Schatz cuckoo in the case adjustments

Discussion in 'Clock Repair' started by Schatz70, Oct 27, 2019.

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  1. Schatz70

    Schatz70 Registered User

    Oct 5, 2019
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    I've made two videos of about two minutes each of my Schatz cuckoo striking, the first one viewed from the rear with the back cover off and the second one shot from the front. The hammer operates first, then the short bellows lifter which operates the high note bellows on the right (coo) and also has the wire that tips up the back of the bird, and then the long bellows lifter which operates the low note bellows on the left (koo). At first the high note bellows lifter would hang up, I guess because it was being asked to lift too much too far, so I bent that one down a little to put more slack in it and limit the amount of travel and now it seems to be more or less working.

    Two questions: 1) In general, how does it look and sound to you and do you have any suggestions on how I could adjust it better; and 2) ideally the door would open a little further and the bird would come out a little further - should I maybe bend the counterweight arms down a little on both the bird lever and door lever?

    Thanks much for any help.

    Video shot from the back: You can hear the rack drop at about 1:09 and the strike occurs less than a minute later.

    Video shot from the front: The back cover is installed in this one so you can hear the gong.
     
  2. Willie X

    Willie X Registered User

    Feb 9, 2008
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    Right bellow stroke is short. Willie X
     
  3. Schatz70

    Schatz70 Registered User

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    Thank you for watching and commenting! That right bellows is the one giving me grief. Of the three lifters, the hammer lifts easiest and is no problem, the left bellows takes a little more force to lift but is ok, and the right one takes the most to the point that initially the strike would get stuck and come to a total stop because of that right bellows lifter. It has to lift the bird in addition to the right bellows. I deliberately put more slack in it so the strike train would run but maybe I need to go back in the other direction a little bit. There are so many variables.
     
  4. Willie X

    Willie X Registered User

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    #4 Willie X, Oct 27, 2019
    Last edited: Oct 27, 2019
    Make sure you see some run-up to the first (gong) lever tail. IOWs the fan should turn several times and get up some momentum before any levers start to lift. If the gong is slow starting, the right lifter will not have enough momentum to start and keep going. The gong action should be quite peppy. If there is good run up and slugish action you may have a power loss problem.

    Have the bellow tops been changed? All of the tops are weighted but 8-Day ones have a much lighter weight. Also, if it has the original leather bellows, these can sometimes become to stiff to opetate correctly.

    The problem you are having is common with
    8-day cuckoos. The 8-Day design comes up with only about 1/2 the available power that a 1-Day cuckoo enjoys ...

    WIllie X
     
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  5. breeze

    breeze Registered User

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    I agree with Willie X. I would ask if you used the old bellows did you ensure you placed it in the same spot it was removed form? The bellows will only open so far so if they were installed lower than originally placed the lever will not be able to lift the bellows far enough to allow the tail to clear the (for lack of a better word) star cam and will cause the clock to stop. As far as the door goes make sure the wire between the door and the bird is not bent. You may try moving the bird a little to the left or right as this will effect how far the door opens.

    breeze
     
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  6. Schatz70

    Schatz70 Registered User

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    How do you adjust the amount of momentum occurring before the levers lift? Is that influenced by where the tabs of the lifters end up on the lock relative to the points of the star wheel? BTW your suggestion that the star wheel on this movement is friction fitted and can be moved by a screwdriver levered on one of the plates was exactly right and very helpful. I thought I had the star wheel where it needs to be.

    The left bellows disintegrated in my hands when I took it out so I had to replace, but that is not the one giving me trouble. The right bellows is original or replaced a long time ago and lifts easily and falls back nicely so I don't think that is the problem.

    When I had everything taken apart I didn't pay much attention to the bird - I'm a little bit tempted to take the bird out and play with it to see if I can get the hinge working with less friction - maybe put a drop of oil in the hinge? Also if I bent the bird tipping wire that is on the top of the right bellows back a little so that it catches the bird further back, would that be likely to help at all?
     
  7. Schatz70

    Schatz70 Registered User

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    I redid the bellows on the left but that is not the one giving me problems. The right bellows is original (or maybe replaced a long time ago). On both of them when I put them back in I used the same screw and the same nail and used the holes in the whistle that were already there so I think both bellows ended up exactly where they were.
     
  8. shutterbug

    shutterbug Moderator
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    We couldn't see the bellows action, and that would help. I don't like the way the tail lift wire is working. It should be tilting the bird as the call sounds, but it appears to be slipping up and over the tail and then hitting it again on the way down. The bird does call, so you basically have a working clock ... but a few minor adjustments will make it better.
     
  9. Willie X

    Willie X Registered User

    Feb 9, 2008
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    Ideally the bird tipping wire should not be able to go behind the birds tail when the clock is laid on its back.

    A cheap trick to build some starting momentum (assuming you do have good run-up to the strike lifter) is to back off on the strike spring. I dont think this has been mentioned. Keep in mind that you are most probably making mods to get around a power loss problem.

    WIllie X
     
  10. JimmyOz

    JimmyOz Registered User

    Feb 21, 2008
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    To Q1, it sounds okay, a bit gritty, however this can be a couple of things. When you changed the bellow, did you tap the box on the bench to see if anything was inside, insects love to live inside them and leave all sorts on muck, also check that you took out any old glue stuck around the hole as this impedes the air flow and of course when you glued the new one on that you did not use to much as to squeeze some of it over the hole. Bellow 2, the old one, good practise is to change both at the same time, as you said the other one fell to bits in your hand, this one would be close to doing the same thing, small pin holes and the like will affect the sound, I also noticed that the glue job on that bellow is not good, I would just change it.

    Q2, the door not opening out far enough, this is an easy fix, no doubt others have worked on this clock and with the bending and unbending of the wire it snaps off and maybe they just rebent it and therefore it is shorter than it should be.


    The lifting arms, the long one needs to be better crimped so that it is more round and not a slid along as it is at present, the shorter one looks to be bent toward the back therefore when lifting it is using power to push forward as well as up, try to get it directly under the bellow lifting eyelet.


    All that said you did a good job on it.
     
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  11. Schatz70

    Schatz70 Registered User

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    Jimmy you've given me a lot of good information and things to try and think about. Thank you.
     

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