Correction: International Time Recorder mainsprings - Is Ollie Baker up to the task?

Keith Doster

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Mar 31, 2011
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I'm working on an International Time Recorder movement for the first time ever. Those mainsprings are . . . formidable. Is my Ollie Baker spring winder going to be able to handle those monster springs?? They're making me nervous.
 
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MuensterMann

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Mar 23, 2008
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Are we talking about the chime mainspring on a Sonora? Yes, the Ollie can handle it. And, yes, it is scary nonetheless.
 

Keith Doster

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Are we talking about the chime mainspring on a Sonora? Yes, the Ollie can handle it. And, yes, it is scary nonetheless.
Nope. This is the movement from an International Time Recording time stamp clock. I've found that I don't have a chuck large enough to use on my Ollie Baker to deal with these springs. So I'm working on Plan B. More pictures to come. IMG_0509.JPG IMG_6203.JPG
 

Uhralt

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Sep 4, 2008
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I thought that the #10 was the double barrel time only movement for a ships clock. Guess not!
It is the double barrel time only movement. The #10 has been used for ships clocks but also for many other applications like time recorders and scientific instruments.

Uhralt
 

D.th.munroe

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The Ollie will handle these if you make an adaptor, it will handle fusee springs too, but yes anyting that big is still scary.
I have an old English winder made for bigger fusee springs and really its not alot bigger or sturdier than the Ollie Baker.
Dan
 

Keith Doster

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Oops! Grant and Uhralt, you are both correct. I have a #10 hanging on the wall which is as you say - double barrel, time only, lever escapement. Not sure what the model number is on this movement.
 
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Keith Doster

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Mar 31, 2011
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I was under the impression Seth Thomas made these movements, but this one does not have any ST markings. There is the number 88 stamped on the from plate. There is also what looks like a production or serial number: 10149 037. Does that mean anything to anyone?
 

Keith Doster

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Mar 31, 2011
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My solution to Ollie Baker not being able to handle those springs. This wooden handle combined with the clock winding key allowed me to remove the "C" clamps I used to capture the mainsprings. Once out of the movement, I had no way of removing the clamps from the mainsprings. So I put them back into the movement, removed the clamps, and then let down the power slowly using this "let down" tool. Removed the springs from the movement and cleaned them. They can be wound back into the movement by putting the springs back onto the winding arbors and placing the mainwheel assembly with the spring completely relaxed back into the movement. Then wind it up. No spring winder is necessary.

IMG_6211.JPG
 

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