Clock stops when hands are installed

Jasons34

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Jan 1, 2016
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So I have a grandfather clock that is only 4 years old. I built it myself and bought a 451-050 hermle movement. This past weekend I decided to oil it. Took hands off and dial so I could access front and back plates easier. Once done with oiling I put dial and hands back on. I started the clock and it's still in a perfect beat. Problem is that it stops after a few minutes. I thought maybe the hands were binding with each other so I removed both hands and ran it. It ran without trouble for 24 hours. So I decided to put the hands back on. Same problem. What I want to know is how far exactly does the hour hand go on. I was thinking that it should press on far enough so that the front face of the bushing is past the outside edge of the cylinder which it presses onto. Than the minute hand goes on till it hits that cylinder shaft and then tighten the hand nut. The first time I put them on I know I did not have the hour hand on far enough because when I took them off I noticed paint removed around that bushing. So this past time I pressed it on further so it was just beyond the face on the cylinder shaft. Hand is not touching dial either. Installed minute hand and nut but it still stopped. Is it possible the nut was on too tight as well? Sorry for this rather newbie question
 

Ticktinker

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Jul 7, 2015
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Hello Jasons,
Is there a chance you moved the pallet fork while you were doing the work?
I worked on a Banjo clock for a family member. It had a pendulum issue at first, I found the correct bob, and the length seemed right...
Then as I looked closely at the pallet and the escapement relation, I found that with the clock set perfectly level on the wall, the pallet was twisted out of position on it's arm. Ok.. I found my first out of beat or over banked clock.
I set the pallet to center, and it soon set, ran and I adjusted the beat, the clock ran the 8 and more days that style runs.
Let me know if this helps. I am sure you are looking real close at the way the hands and their shafts are coming through all the openings.
Maybe this is it...
Dave
 

Jasons34

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Jan 1, 2016
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i know I have the hour hand on far enough now. It's in past the back side of the minute arbor by about 1/32". I loosened up the hand nut a tick to where it's now lightly snug. It's been running now for 45 minutes. I know the pallets are fine and the crutch is fine because the escape wheel doesn't bind up with the pallets. There is a very even and smooth tick tock. I'll see how this goes
 

davidpaul

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Oct 6, 2012
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i know I have the hour hand on far enough now. It's in past the back side of the minute arbor by about 1/32". I loosened up the hand nut a tick to where it's now lightly snug. It's been running now for 45 minutes. I know the pallets are fine and the crutch is fine because the escape wheel doesn't bind up with the pallets. There is a very even and smooth tick tock. I'll see how this goes
It would appear that Mark Butterworth's advice was your answer.
 

ragobo

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Apr 14, 2015
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Hand nut must be just enough tight so that it doesn't unscrew due to the hands movement. On the other hand, the slightest bend of the minute arbor may result in very little variations of the distance between the hour canon and the minute hand and if it is too tight pressed the clock could stop itself.
 

Jasons34

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Jan 1, 2016
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Got home from work and it was still in deed running. But I just don't like how tight (hardly) the nut was so I pulled that and the minute hand off and felt the backside of the bushing. There was a bur on the backside so I lightly filed it smooth and cleaned it off before installing. I also was able to push the hour hand on just a bit further and still the backside of the hand is still almost an 1/8" from the dial and it's back far enough on the arbor now (1/32+) that I should be good to go.
 

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