Clock Clock Parts Wanted

[Barry Armstrong]

I'm looking for a chime rod for a Lenzkirch GF clock. Rod dia .125 inches thread dia .280 inches

 

[SAMcCloud]

Hello all.
I am looking for a 30-tooth escape wheel for a 2 weight regulator. The movement is unmarked as to maker and date, but is consistent with other "Vienna" styled clocks. Customer has 8 individual clocks and this is the 3rd in for restoration.

The escape wheel is off of its arbor and out of round. The pivots on the arbor are good. I do not have a deadbeat gear cutter that will fit this small. Thought I would check before I ground a tool.

Dimensions:

Outside diameter is tooth-to-tooth is 25mm
inside diameter of should is 3 mm
pinion has 8 leaves
arbor length pivot to pivot is 27mm.

Thank you
Scott McCloud

 

[OTTO ZITTLAU]

Hello, all!
I am in Brasil and, i look for the escape wheel of the junghans B06.

 

[Ralph]

I am looking for an English type cast brass bezel. The outside diameter should be 5.5" or 140mm.

It is for a small size English bracket clock.

Thanks, Ralph

 

[Probox]

Did you ever get the part you needed. I have made several of these. Patrick

Hi, can you make an escapement wheel if I give you the original?

 

[Joseph Coppersmith]

I am in need of the bob only for a Globe Baseball clock. I have the pendulum rod - just need the small bob.

 

[zzippy]

Does anyone have a time side arbour assembly for a Ansonia 5 1/2 movement, 80 tooth 60mm dia as per photos
mine is missing the click and is very badly worn click wheel

 

[murphyfields]

I have a Mauthe GF clock in need of a pendulum leader. I am not even sure what specs I need to make sure I get the right one. Substitutes are acceptable for now, but I would love to get an original.

Thank you

 

[EscapeWheel]

I have a Mauthe GF clock in need of a pendulum leader. I am not even sure what specs I need to make sure I get the right one. Substitutes are acceptable for now, but I would love to get an original.

Thank you

Does this one look like it might work?

5-3/4" Pendulum Leader 3-pc (timesavers.com)

 

[murphyfields]

Does this one look like it might work?

That's a very good question. I am afraid there is an education aspect here, too, since I have never seen the part I am looking for. I assume that I need to make sure the top will match the suspension spring (looks promising), the bottom matches up to my pendulum (I think it will work, but I am not even certain I have the right pendulum), that it is the right length (I am not sure there) and if it matches the pin on the crutch (I don't think that will work, but not sure). My crutch has a single pin on it. On the bright side, I think I could adjust the length of the crutch a bit if necessary.

 

[EscapeWheel]

If this is similar to your clock, it shows the leader and pendulum top hook (sort of).

Round Top German Grandfather Clock | Collectors Weekly

It looks like you need something like the ""F" hook seen here?

Clock Pendulum Top Hooks - For mechanical clocks - Clockworks - Clockworks

 

[murphyfields]

If this is similar to your clock, it shows the leader and pendulum top hook (sort of).

Round Top German Grandfather Clock | Collectors Weeklu

Bingo. That looks like a perfect match.

I need to look closer at the hooks.

 

[murphyfields]

I think the F hook is the closest, at least close enough for matching the leader. Here are a few more pics of the top of my pendulum. It looks like a very good match to the one in the Collectors Weekly pics

 

[murphyfields]

EscapeWheel thanks to your guiding suggestions, I think I found a matching leader on clockworks...

Leader

but I am a little concerned that the combined length of the leader plus pendulum might be just a hair too short (about 3 cm or more short based on the physical length of the pendulum and leader vs. the length listed on the movement). If the new leader works physically to match the crutch, pendulum head, and suspension spring, but ends up too fast regardless of how low I can lower the bob, are there any pendulum extenders available out there?

 

[EscapeWheel]

I keep hoping someone who knows more about these clocks will chime in. If you're too short, would a longer suspension spring work? Or would it mess things up...

 

[murphyfields]

I keep hoping someone who knows more about these clocks will chime in.

Actually, your posts have been remarkably helpful. Thanks to the Collectors Weekly post, I have some idea that I have the original pendulum, and I know what the leader is supposed to look like (much like a kieninger, Jauch, or urgos), plus you pointed me in a direction for parts. I give your comments an A+ for helpfulness.

 

[inbeat]

I am looking for an original painted dial for a Seth Thomas "Lincoln". "Garfield". or "Flora." If none are available I would be interested in a suitable repaint, or repaintable dial.
I do not need the wooden surround.

 

[R_Fry]

I'm looking for the Mainspring gear and the one it touches, although I would be willing to get a complete movement if possible. The clock has a Korean-made "Beacon" works. It looks like the mainspring slipped (problems with the ratchet), breaking a tooth on the gear, bending some, and flattening two of the teeth of the touching gear. I have included pictures of the gears in question, as well as images of the complete works. The smaller gear has 70 teeth (8 on the part that goes against the mainspring gear), and the mainspring gear has 80.

 

[roughbarked]

Hepas of them in boxes, in the same codition. Yes the mainsprings do tend to slip and it isn't because the ratchets slip. It is because the plates are too thin and they open up enough to allow the mainspring to try and knock the side of the clock off.

 

[roughbarked]

The story of this clock is that the clock owner took the clock to a jeweller's shop where he thought he'd find a repairer. this in Western Australian town of Merrebin had this clock sent to another town Albany to get it cleaned but it didn't go so the customer took it back. Then the shop owner where he'd initially left it said it would have to be sent away again. When it came back or so he said, the shop owner wanted $900 when the clock owner had only asked for a quote.
The caveat however was that the strike apparently couldn't be fixed. He took the ratchet wheel off the strike side and wired it to the pillar and blocked up the keyhole, losing the escutcheon along the way. When I reattached the ratchet wheel, the governor fan was loose on the shaft and the strike hammer complete had been removed as well. That however was not all. The rack and the gathering pallet were gone as well. To add insult to injury, the beat setting was soft sodered together.
The customer eventually got the clock back three and a half years later for $100, to get it out of his shop, so the shop owner said.
Here are pictures of the movement. It has the crossed arrows of the HAC style but I believe the movement may actually be a Junghans. So, i am sure I can remove the solder and find a hammer but I'm at a loss as to where I'll ever find the rack and the gathering pallet. This clock is unlike any other I've seen in this regard. I believe that the rack must go on the same fitting as the warning/stop lever. There are two shafts clipped on top with a brass clip.

Does anyone here have pictures of this clock in its intact condition or have these parts at all? Maybe if I see a picture I may be able to make parts?

View attachment 593831 View attachment 593832 View attachment 593833

Fixed to the wall.
I note here that after thinking about it for a while and having a spare part to look at;
The main reason these parts were removed, were all because the person repairing it couldn't work out that the brass clip/spring plate had to be flat or how to get it flat again.

 

[Bob86]

I have a very old Seth-Thomas wall clock, that has had some questionable repairs. I am looking to replace the escape wheel and pinion with one from a donor clock. It is a #89 movement with a front pendulum. Anyone have one they’d be willing to part with? It’s a 39 tooth wheel.

 

[Terry's Tick Tocks]

Does anyone know where I can get a paper or mylar clock dial as in the photo? It would need to be 4 1/2" diameter with a 2 1/2" cutout (Ingraham) View attachment 530676 . Most replacement dials I have seen of that diameter are just plain dials. I'm hoping to find a "fancy" dial.
Thank you for your time and your help.

This is the first rendering. I left the wind holes rough. They will be covered by the grommets. Do you want Ingraham name? Terry

 

[Terry's Tick Tocks]

This is the first rendering. I left the wind holes rough. They will be covered by the grommets. Do you want Ingraham name? Terry

 

[nutmegtinker]

Looking for a complete vienna regulator weight-driven train, one weight or two. Must include matching mounting bracket, dial and pendulum. Dimension constraints:
Clock face - 7.75" incl. bezel
Top of clock face to bottom of pendulum Bob - 27"
backboard to top of face - 3.5"

 

[Terry's Tick Tocks]

View attachment 640060

 

[Terry's Tick Tocks]

View attachment 640060

Not used to this thread yet. I use Gimp to resize as needed, then print on Avery 8165 card stock, spray with 2 light coats Rustoleum UV. If you use gloss it will look like an Iveroid antique. Line up with the 12:00 pip, fold and peel some of the backing, lightly press the exposed part down, remove rest of backing and use a cloth to firmly press down. This Avery glue is VERY aggressive, so be sure it is in position!. If the dial plate is separate you can apply first and spray after.

 

[R_Fry]

Looking for a click spring that matches the one pictured.

 

[BCR]

Good evening. Got this fantastic period tallcase -- but I believe the movement is wrong -- or perhaps the dial --- the dial is way too huge for the surround -- it is a moon dial face --- even the time track diameter is hidden behind the mask. I'm hoping someone out there has either a moon dial, or an entire American works. It surely would bring this beauty back to life. Thanks for the help -- PM me if you have something. Best wishes.

View attachment 547447 View attachment 547448

If you have not found one yet, I may have what you need....movement and dial. Philip

 

[David D'Apice]

If you have not found one yet, I may have what you need....movement and dial. Philip

Philip -- thank you so much -- I was able to locate one! Success at last! Have a great weekend -- and thanks so much for the offer to help!

 

[Tim Fitzgerald]

I'm looking for quality photos of a Seth Thomas "Mikado" clock movement , I take pictures of all my clock disassembly for aid in reassembly after cleaning and repair. The pictures I transferred to my pc were lost during transfer. Or a parts movement for sale
Can anyone help?
Thanks

 

[tracerjack]

Looking for a second wheel chime or strike. In this Junghans model they are identical. David LaBounty didn’t have one, so reaching out to others. It’s a 50 tooth wheel, 32.65 mm diameter, arbor shoulder to shoulder 36.67 mm, 12 cut leaves.

 

[MLSchlot]

I need the 5th wheel and arbor assembly, which contains the seconds shaft from a Seth Thomas 5165 or 5169 series movement. Of course, I'll take the entire movement (5165 or 5169) to get the 5th wheel assembly (Seth Thomas PN R-18689) or just the part itself. This is for a Seth Thomas maritime clock I'm restoring. Please contact me via PM if you have one. Thanks very much.

Regards -- Mike

 

[oleksiy01234]

Hi, I'm looking for a replacement part for a soviet wall clock "Yantar". It has a broken pin on one side, so it can't hold on to the movement plate. I attached some pictures, and it has the following dimensions:

Wheel diameter: 33mm
Total length: about 43mm if I include the broken pin.
Number of teeth: 76.

Please let me know if you have one available. Thank you

 

[JTD]

Hi, I'm looking for a replacement part for a soviet wall clock "Yantar". It has a broken pin on one side, so it can't hold on to the movement plate. I attached some pictures, and it has the following dimensions:

Wheel diameter: 33mm
Total length: about 43mm if I include the broken pin.
Number of teeth: 76.

Please let me know if you have one available. Thank you

View attachment 685878 View attachment 685879 View attachment 685880 View attachment 685881 View attachment 685882 View attachment 685883 View attachment 685884

I think it would be easier to get the wheel re-pivoted. You might not easily find a replacement wheel.
You might need to send it out to be re-pivoted, if you don't wish to do it yourself.

JTD

 

[JoeAsheville]

Delete this post please (found what I needed).

 

[Mike Phelan]

Joe, a glass merchant would make a glass disc for you. I guess it would be the same where you are

 

[JoeAsheville]

Joe, a glass merchant would make a glass disc for you. I guess it would be the same where you are

Hi Mike, unfortunately it's convex and not single strength flat (which is what most locals have). I think I've found a source for the convex glass - installing it will be another matter entirely. Not sure how to do that.

 

[Mike Phelan]

Hi Mike, unfortunately it's convex and not single strength flat (which is what most locals have). I think I've found a source for the convex glass - installing it will be another matter entirely. Not sure how to do that.

Apologies, Joe, it looked flat on the picture. Glad you've probably sorted it.

 

[JoeAsheville]

No dramas at all, Mike. I appreciate your response!

 

[Mike Phelan]

No dramas at all, Mike. I appreciate your response!

 

[Matt Rock]

Need a complete set of hands for a Chelsea US Army Clock Message Center M2, its either a 5 1/2" or 6" dial. Shipping this to Chelsea is not an option I'm willing to pursue, hoping to find a little luck in here.

Thanks!

 

[Mike Phelan]

Need a complete set of hands for a Chelsea US Army Clock Message Center M2, its either a 5 1/2" or 6" dial. Shipping this to Chelsea is not an option I'm willing to pursue, hoping to find a little luck in here.

Thanks!

Shouldn't this be a new thread?

 

[Matt Rock]

Shouldn't this be a new thread?

So this forum titled "Clock Parts Wanted" isn't the correct place for my post? I'm confused, please explain.

 

[Mike Phelan]

Indeed it is in the correct place on the Forum, Matt, but what I meant, was that rather than posting into an existing thread which might have limited views, 'twould be best if you started a new thread, but still in "Clock Parts Wanted" as more folk will look at it.

 

[Matt Rock]

Indeed it is in the correct place on the Forum, Matt, but what I meant, was that rather than posting into an existing thread which might have limited views, 'twould be best if you started a new thread, but still in "Clock Parts Wanted" as more folk will look at it.

Yeah, I see what you're referring too.

Thanks