Clock Clock Parts Wanted

Barry Armstrong

NAWCC Member
Feb 3, 2015
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I'm looking for a chime rod for a Lenzkirch GF clock. Rod dia .125 inches thread dia .280 inches
 

SAMcCloud

Registered User
Jan 4, 2020
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Hello all.
I am looking for a 30-tooth escape wheel for a 2 weight regulator. The movement is unmarked as to maker and date, but is consistent with other "Vienna" styled clocks. Customer has 8 individual clocks and this is the 3rd in for restoration.

The escape wheel is off of its arbor and out of round. The pivots on the arbor are good. I do not have a deadbeat gear cutter that will fit this small. Thought I would check before I ground a tool.

Dimensions:

Outside diameter is tooth-to-tooth is 25mm
inside diameter of should is 3 mm
pinion has 8 leaves
arbor length pivot to pivot is 27mm.

Thank you
Scott McCloud

IMG_1126.jpg IMG_1128.jpeg
 

Ralph

NAWCC Member
Sponsor
Jan 22, 2002
5,175
274
83
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I am looking for an English type cast brass bezel. The outside diameter should be 5.5" or 140mm.

It is for a small size English bracket clock.

Thanks, Ralph
 

Joseph Coppersmith

Registered User
Dec 25, 2010
193
1
18
St. Paul, MN
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I am in need of the bob only for a Globe Baseball clock. I have the pendulum rod - just need the small bob.
 

zzippy

Registered User
Mar 23, 2016
111
4
18
london
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Does anyone have a time side arbour assembly for a Ansonia 5 1/2 movement, 80 tooth 60mm dia as per photos
mine is missing the click and is very badly worn click wheel

IMG_5714.JPG IMG_5715.JPG IMG_5716.JPG
 

murphyfields

Registered User
Jun 24, 2020
167
25
28
Westminster, CO
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I have a Mauthe GF clock in need of a pendulum leader. I am not even sure what specs I need to make sure I get the right one. Substitutes are acceptable for now, but I would love to get an original.

Thank you
 

murphyfields

Registered User
Jun 24, 2020
167
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Westminster, CO
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Does this one look like it might work?
That's a very good question. I am afraid there is an education aspect here, too, since I have never seen the part I am looking for. I assume that I need to make sure the top will match the suspension spring (looks promising), the bottom matches up to my pendulum (I think it will work, but I am not even certain I have the right pendulum), that it is the right length (I am not sure there) and if it matches the pin on the crutch (I don't think that will work, but not sure). My crutch has a single pin on it. On the bright side, I think I could adjust the length of the crutch a bit if necessary.

Crutch.jpg Pendulum top.jpg
 

murphyfields

Registered User
Jun 24, 2020
167
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Westminster, CO
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I think the F hook is the closest, at least close enough for matching the leader. Here are a few more pics of the top of my pendulum. It looks like a very good match to the one in the Collectors Weekly pics

Pendulum top back.jpg Pendulum top front.jpg Pendulum top side.jpg
 

murphyfields

Registered User
Jun 24, 2020
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Westminster, CO
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EscapeWheel thanks to your guiding suggestions, I think I found a matching leader on clockworks...

Leader

but I am a little concerned that the combined length of the leader plus pendulum might be just a hair too short (about 3 cm or more short based on the physical length of the pendulum and leader vs. the length listed on the movement). If the new leader works physically to match the crutch, pendulum head, and suspension spring, but ends up too fast regardless of how low I can lower the bob, are there any pendulum extenders available out there?
 

EscapeWheel

Registered User
Mar 19, 2003
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I keep hoping someone who knows more about these clocks will chime in. If you're too short, would a longer suspension spring work? Or would it mess things up...
 

murphyfields

Registered User
Jun 24, 2020
167
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Westminster, CO
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I keep hoping someone who knows more about these clocks will chime in.
Actually, your posts have been remarkably helpful. Thanks to the Collectors Weekly post, I have some idea that I have the original pendulum, and I know what the leader is supposed to look like (much like a kieninger, Jauch, or urgos), plus you pointed me in a direction for parts. I give your comments an A+ for helpfulness.
 

R_Fry

Registered User
Sep 6, 2020
8
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I'm looking for the Mainspring gear and the one it touches, although I would be willing to get a complete movement if possible. The clock has a Korean-made "Beacon" works. It looks like the mainspring slipped (problems with the ratchet), breaking a tooth on the gear, bending some, and flattening two of the teeth of the touching gear. I have included pictures of the gears in question, as well as images of the complete works. The smaller gear has 70 teeth (8 on the part that goes against the mainspring gear), and the mainspring gear has 80.
IMG_9784.JPG IMG_9796.JPG IMG_9808.JPG IMG_9807.JPG
 

roughbarked

Registered User
Dec 2, 2016
6,003
806
113
Western NSW or just this side of the black stump.
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The story of this clock is that the clock owner took the clock to a jeweller's shop where he thought he'd find a repairer. this in Western Australian town of Merrebin had this clock sent to another town Albany to get it cleaned but it didn't go so the customer took it back. Then the shop owner where he'd initially left it said it would have to be sent away again. When it came back or so he said, the shop owner wanted $900 when the clock owner had only asked for a quote.
The caveat however was that the strike apparently couldn't be fixed. He took the ratchet wheel off the strike side and wired it to the pillar and blocked up the keyhole, losing the escutcheon along the way. When I reattached the ratchet wheel, the governor fan was loose on the shaft and the strike hammer complete had been removed as well. That however was not all. The rack and the gathering pallet were gone as well. To add insult to injury, the beat setting was soft sodered together.
The customer eventually got the clock back three and a half years later for $100, to get it out of his shop, so the shop owner said.
Here are pictures of the movement. It has the crossed arrows of the HAC style but I believe the movement may actually be a Junghans. So, i am sure I can remove the solder and find a hammer but I'm at a loss as to where I'll ever find the rack and the gathering pallet. This clock is unlike any other I've seen in this regard. I believe that the rack must go on the same fitting as the warning/stop lever. There are two shafts clipped on top with a brass clip.

Does anyone here have pictures of this clock in its intact condition or have these parts at all? Maybe if I see a picture I may be able to make parts?

View attachment 593831 View attachment 593832 View attachment 593833
Fixed to the wall.
I note here that after thinking about it for a while and having a spare part to look at;
The main reason these parts were removed, were all because the person repairing it couldn't work out that the brass clip/spring plate had to be flat or how to get it flat again.

IMG_2183s.jpg IMG_2184s.jpg
 

Bob86

Registered User
Dec 21, 2020
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I have a very old Seth-Thomas wall clock, that has had some questionable repairs. I am looking to replace the escape wheel and pinion with one from a donor clock. It is a #89 movement with a front pendulum. Anyone have one they’d be willing to part with? It’s a 39 tooth wheel.
 

Terry's Tick Tocks

New Member
Feb 23, 2021
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Does anyone know where I can get a paper or mylar clock dial as in the photo? It would need to be 4 1/2" diameter with a 2 1/2" cutout (Ingraham) View attachment 530676 . Most replacement dials I have seen of that diameter are just plain dials. I'm hoping to find a "fancy" dial.
Thank you for your time and your help.
This is the first rendering. I left the wind holes rough. They will be covered by the grommets. Do you want Ingraham name? Terry
 

nutmegtinker

Registered User
Dec 25, 2020
57
3
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CT
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Looking for a complete vienna regulator weight-driven train, one weight or two. Must include matching mounting bracket, dial and pendulum. Dimension constraints:
Clock face - 7.75" incl. bezel
Top of clock face to bottom of pendulum Bob - 27"
backboard to top of face - 3.5"
 

Terry's Tick Tocks

New Member
Feb 23, 2021
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Not used to this thread yet. I use Gimp to resize as needed, then print on Avery 8165 card stock, spray with 2 light coats Rustoleum UV. If you use gloss it will look like an Iveroid antique. Line up with the 12:00 pip, fold and peel some of the backing, lightly press the exposed part down, remove rest of backing and use a cloth to firmly press down. This Avery glue is VERY aggressive, so be sure it is in position!. If the dial plate is separate you can apply first and spray after.
 

R_Fry

Registered User
Sep 6, 2020
8
0
1
21
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Looking for a click spring that matches the one pictured.
IMG_9963.JPG
 

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