Clock Identity Help

Discussion in 'General Clock Discussions' started by John M Berman, Jan 7, 2019.

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  1. John M Berman

    John M Berman Registered User

    Jan 7, 2019
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    Hi

    I have recently recived a Grandfather Clock- it works which is great, however I know nothing about it, there are no obvious makers makrks etc - So I have included a picture of the clock face which Iguess may help ?

    Regards
    John B clcock.jpg
     
  2. JTD

    JTD Registered User

    Sep 27, 2005
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    Welcome to the board.

    The picture you have posted helps a bit, but in order to say something more definite could you please also post a photo of the movement, showing side and back. It would also help to date the clock if we could see the whole case.

    The numbers seem to have been repainted, not very well, but it seems that the 'artist' did not touch the rest of the dial, which is a blessing. I'm not sure what s/he did to the date wheel (in the aperture in the lower part of the dial) - looks very odd. Have you still got the little hand that goes onto the seconds dial?

    Please let us have more photos and I'm sure your questions can be answered.

    JTD
     
  3. John M Berman

    John M Berman Registered User

    Jan 7, 2019
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    thanks for the reply (I noticed I put working thats incorrect as its missing the weights etc) more pics attached - would love to try and restore

    Regards
    John B full.jpg head.jpg mech1.jpg mech2.jpg
     
  4. JTD

    JTD Registered User

    Sep 27, 2005
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    Thanks for further photos. It may never be possible to know who made you clock, as the movements were often (even usually) unmarked. There may have been a maker's or retailer's name on the dial, but that has long gone. You might just be able to make out the trace of the name if you hold the dial obliquely with a strong light, or you could try it with UV light.

    I see no reason why you couldn't restore your clock. Apart from the weights, which you say are missing, have you got the pendulum and the bell? It doesn't matter if you haven't, these things are easy to find. There would have been a finial on the middle piece of the top of the case. This can also be replaced. And the seconds hand, which I mentioned before.

    From what I can see, the movement is very dirty and looks as if some parts may also be rusty. Having said that, if you are planning to do the restoration yourself, then these movements are easier for beginners (I'm presuming you are one, apologies if you aren't!) because the parts are larger and so easier to handle than smaller clocks.

    It should be a nice project for you and in the end you will have a very nice clock and a feeling of satisfaction. I would suggest you don't try to repaint the dial, unless you are an experienced sign-writer. It would be worth paying to have this professionally done.

    JTD
     
  5. John M Berman

    John M Berman Registered User

    Jan 7, 2019
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    thanks for the info (yes im a beginner) so had a further look and on the back of the face plate there is a stamp that says Wright - Birmingham and looking on line there was a clock maker of such a name, further looking at the clock suggest that its post 1750 but pre 1820 (based on the fact that its painted face and the hand style) I have added further picture and I have identified where there should be bell and where the pendulum should connect (I think)

    This hobby could be very addictive

    John B theback.JPG
     
  6. JTD

    JTD Registered User

    Sep 27, 2005
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    I think that Wright, Birmingham will be the face-plate and/or dial maker, not the clock maker. Yes, the bell goes on the stand as you have indicated. The pendulum is attached to a long suspension spring which hangs from the jutting-out brass bracket at the top of the back plate. The spring passes through the slot you have marked and the pendulum is fixed to the end of the spring.

    And yes, you will likely be addicted before long, but better addicted to clocks than some other things!

    JTD
     
  7. G J M

    G J M Registered User

    Mar 2, 2018
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    I would like to welcome you to the MB as well and tell you that you have come to the right place to have any questions you might have answered. I am constantly amazed at the wealth of knowledge there is to be found here. After 10 plus years of working on my meager collection of clocks I am still very much a beginner.

    Go to the "CLOCK REPAIRS" and "HINTS AND HOW-TO'S" forums. It makes for good reading and I find answers to questions I didn't even know I had. Using search (the little magnifying glass) is also a great resource for more specific questions. If you are like me these alone will add to your "clock addiction".

    Good luck
    G
     
  8. novicetimekeeper

    novicetimekeeper Registered User
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    Your dial has been repainted rather poorly in a style suggesting post 1830, however I'm not convinced they have copied the original design. I would have thought the false plate was made by Wright & co as was, presumably, the dial. That puts it 1805-1820. There was another later wright though, are there any initials?
     
  9. novicetimekeeper

    novicetimekeeper Registered User
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    BTW, it is only the numerals and chapter ring that have been badly done. They have not touched the arch or spandrels. The spandrels seem to have lost some definition but the painting in the arch is charming. You could easily get the black bits redone and leave the rest.
     
  10. John M Berman

    John M Berman Registered User

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    thanks for all the comments, i will remove the face plate at the weekend and have a good look for any further markings - now going to read the Clock Repairs etc to see how I go about cleaning and sourcing spares

    Regards
    John B
     
  11. Peter John

    Peter John Registered User
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    And the weights need to be much heavier than 320gm. Much more, like about 13 lbs or about 25-28 kilos. Peter
     
  12. bruce linde

    bruce linde Technical Admin
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    i think that last part is a typo... you want in the 12lb-13lb range, which would be 5-6 kilos.
     
  13. JTD

    JTD Registered User

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    I don't think anyone suggested the weights should be 320g, did they? And as bruce linde has said, 13lbs is about 5-6 kgs. certainly not 25-28kgs.

    JTD
     
  14. novicetimekeeper

    novicetimekeeper Registered User
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    You can buy 12lb cast iron weights which would be the correct weight and style. A number of UK suppliers sell them.
     
  15. Peter John

    Peter John Registered User
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    And that is what happens if you multiply instead of divide.
     
  16. Peter John

    Peter John Registered User
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    There is a post that suggested 320gm wt. It is under general clock discussions. Its not there now.
     
  17. bruce linde

    bruce linde Technical Admin
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    peter... so no problem! as long as we get the OP (original poster) to the right answer... :cool:
     
  18. John M Berman

    John M Berman Registered User

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    thaks for all the help - have a good Friday
    John B
     
  19. John M Berman

    John M Berman Registered User

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    So I have checked for more markings but only found the words Wright and Birm on the back of the date Wheel. Whilst the wheel has been painted over (I assume) where the paint has flaked off there is no real sign of what was originally there = Pictures in post.
    Regards
    John B back.jpg fromt.jpg
     
  20. novicetimekeeper

    novicetimekeeper Registered User
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    That would have had the number 1-31 more than likely, though it may have had few numbers with lines in between.
     
  21. JTD

    JTD Registered User

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    Yes, as I said in post #2, this is the calendar wheel, and as Nick says would have had numbers/lines (but tidily painted, unlike this overpainted version!). If you count the strokes on the wheel you will see what Nick and I mean.

    JTD
     
  22. Uhralt

    Uhralt Registered User
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    Often there would be a number for every other date and a dot for the non-numbered dates.
    Uhralt
     

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