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Cleaning Movement Wheels

Lou King

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Nov 17, 2022
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I've tried to search for this on this board but unable to find the answer. What is the best solvent to use on dirty wheels? I've tried alcohol and mineral spirits but not working as I had hoped. What should I use to really penetrate all of this grime?
Thank you.

Dirty Movement Wheels 1.jpg Dirty Movement Wheels 2.jpg
 

Vernon

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Dec 9, 2006
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I use Deox-007 by Polychem in a heated ultrasonic machine. It does a decent job but some times you have to take the soft brass brush to the stubborn areas.

Vernon
 

Lou King

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I use Deox-007 by Polychem in a heated ultrasonic machine. It does a decent job but some times you have to take the soft brass brush to the stubborn areas.

Vernon
I don't own a heated ultrasonic machine, can I just use a solvent and manually clean the wheels?
 

R. Croswell

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I don't own a heated ultrasonic machine, can I just use a solvent and manually clean the wheels?
Deox-007 can be used manually. Just soak the parts for about 15 minutes in warm solution. Keep moving the parts around and brushing. You may need 0000 steel wool or a fine wire brush. Looks like you have more oxidation than dirt which explains why petroleum solvents didn't work. As long as the pivots are bright and smooth the discoloration won't affect the clock running.

RC
 
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Lou King

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Nov 17, 2022
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Deox-007 can be used manually. Just soak the parts for about 15 minutes in warm solution. Keep moving the parts around and brushing. You may need 0000 steel wool or a fine wire brush. Looks like you have more oxidation than dirt which explains why petroleum solvents didn't work. As long as the pivots are bright and smooth the discoloration won't affect the clock running.

RC
So you're saying I can I manually put the Deox-007 on the wheels and let it sit for 15 mins then take an acid brush to it?
 
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JTD

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Sep 27, 2005
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So you're saying I can I manually put the Deox-007 on the wheels and let it sit for 15 mins
From the way you have worded this, I worry that you are planning to put the Deox-007 onto the wheels without dismantling the movement. Can you confirm that you are intending to disassemble the movement completely - otherwise you will be wasting your time.

But perhaps I have misunderstood you.


then take an acid brush to it?
Excuse my ignorance, but what is an 'acid brush'?

JTD
 

Mike Mall

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Oct 27, 2021
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This is what's considered an acid brush. It's usually used to apply substances, not for cleaning things.
1675432314783.png

I think RC meant a toothbrush, or similar brush.
 

JTD

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Sep 27, 2005
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This is what's considered an acid brush. It's usually used to apply substances, not for cleaning things.
View attachment 748154
I think RC meant a toothbrush, or similar brush.
Thank you for that - I had never heard of an acid brush.

However, it was not RC who mentioned an acid brush, he suggested fine steel wool or a fine wire brush (post #4), which I would use too.

It was the OP (Lou King) who brought in the acid brush in his post #5.

JTD
 
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JayKosta

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Dec 14, 2022
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What would be the most safe way to do a helpful cleaning / oiling if disassembly was NOT being done?
MY diy amateur way would be to use soft brushes (toothbrush, acid brush, Q-tip, wood toothpick, etc) to remove visible gobs and lumps, dust, debris. Then use oil and Q-tips on the pivots until they stopped showing stains - then finally wipe all oil from the plates and do a detail oiling of the pivots.
I wouldn't attempt to do anything just for visual appearance.
 

shutterbug

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There is no good way to clean it without disassembly. If there were, we'd all be using it :)
A three train movement is not a good candidate for a first timer to learn on. Try to find an easier option to experiment on. Cuckoo movements are fairly simple and inexpensive.
 

R. Croswell

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What would be the most safe way to do a helpful cleaning / oiling if disassembly was NOT being done?
MY diy amateur way would be to use soft brushes (toothbrush, acid brush, Q-tip, wood toothpick, etc) to remove visible gobs and lumps, dust, debris. Then use oil and Q-tips on the pivots until they stopped showing stains - then finally wipe all oil from the plates and do a detail oiling of the pivots.
I wouldn't attempt to do anything just for visual appearance.
I'm sorry, but I'm afraid you are heading down the wrong rabbit hole. The "visible gobs and lumps, dust, debris" are not causing any problem as long as you leave them alone. Use of toothpicks etc. to remove this stuff just forces it deeper into the pivot holes where it joins the dried up crusty old oil that is a problem. Q-tips tend to shed stringy threads that you do not want to get into the pivot holes. You said, "I wouldn't attempt to do anything just for visual appearance", if you are not doing this for visual appearance, why are you doing it? What you describe may loosen up the clock so that it will sort of run for a little while, if it isn't severely worn out, but the effect is short lived. Take time to read some good books on basic clock repair and start by learning to do it the right way, which usually takes less time because in the end you either give up or realize that it has to come apart for aproper cleaning and inspection. It ain't rocket science and unless you are a total mechanical clitz I'm sure you can learn to do this and do it right.

RC
 

Lou King

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I was going to try to clean the movement without a total dismantle so I figured if it worked then I was good to go. If not then a dismantle would need to be performed.
I just bought an ultrasonic cleaner and was wondering what is the best concentrated solution gets all the grime out and makes the brass look nice and shiny. Any suggestions?
 

Willie X

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Feb 9, 2008
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It sounds (to me) like you are ONLY concerned about what your clock looks like. Asthetics has almost no effect on a clock's running condition. The surfaces that have to be clean are not visable. So, your thinking is sort of upside down. What RC just said.

IMO ultrasonic cleaners are very overated. They can save a good bit of time in a commercial operation and they can clean lantern pinions better than other methods but that's about it. For small a scale clock repair operation hand cleaning is simple, cheap, and very effective ... Willie X
 
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R. Croswell

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I was going to try to clean the movement without a total dismantle so I figured if it worked then I was good to go. If not then a dismantle would need to be performed.
I just bought an ultrasonic cleaner and was wondering what is the best concentrated solution gets all the grime out and makes the brass look nice and shiny. Any suggestions?
Polychem Deox-007 is what I use in the US. It does a good job of removing tarnish (oxidation) and general cleaning. (Reread posts #2 & 4). If you are thinking about dunking the assembled movement in the US and expecting to "get all the grime out and makes the brass look nice and shiny" you will be sadly disappointed. Chemical cleaners like Deox-007 and those containing ammonia can only remove the oxidation from brass parts. They will be cleaner and look brighter, but they will not be any shinier than they were originally unless you use brass polish (not recommended). To get all the grime out will usually require some hand cleaning even if a US is used and the movement is disassembled. Attempting to clean an assembled movement in the US is not the recommended and is somewhat like taking a shower with your cloths on.

RC
 
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